Baños, Ecuador – full name Baños de Agua Santa – was one of our favorite places on our entire 5-month trip to South America. It was our 2nd favorite place overall in Ecuador (nothing beats the Galapagos!) and we would go back again in a heartbeat. The town is known for two things: naturally heated thermal baths – the namesake of Baños, Ecuador – and adventure sports! Nearby Baños, you’ll find mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and hot springs. Oh, and the famous Swing at the End of the World.
Baños is situated a couple of hours away from Quito by bus, in a stunning valley at the base of an active volcano called Tungurahua. Don’t worry: the town is far enough away from Tungurahua to be safe, though you might see some smoke or fire coming from the top of the volcano.
We spent a week in Baños, which we felt was a good length of time. We only tried a few of the MANY amazing activities, and honestly, we’re dying to go back. Here’s our guide to 11 of the best things to do in Baños, Ecuador!
Table of Contents
Psst: Planning a trip to Ecuador? We’ve got a bunch of useful resources to help you plan your trip!
- Backpacking Ecuador: Itinerary for 1 Incredible Month
- 30 Things No One Tells You About Backpacking in Ecuador
- How to Visit The Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise: A Complete Guide
- What to Pack for South America: 32 Backpacking Essentials
- Hiking the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador: Reverse Route Travel Guide
We’ve also created a massive 10-page eBook packed full of Ecuador travel tips. Sign up below and we’ll send you our FREE Ecuador Travel Guide, plus email you with tips to help you plan your trip!
The picturesque Casa de Arbol, home of the famous Swing at the End of the World, in Baños, Ecuador.
How to Get to Baños, Ecuador
Ecuador is a small country, and getting around it is quite easy and inexpensive. The only way to get to Baños is by bus, but you can bus from multiple locations around Ecuador. The bus station in Baños is near the center of town and is walking distance to most hotels and hostels – or you can take a cheap $1 taxi from the bus station to your destination.
How to Get to Baños from Quito
If you fly into Quito, you will first need to take a $25 taxi for 45 minutes into the city. This price is standard, and unfortunately it’s the best option (you can take a combination of buses for several hours to save a few dollars, but we didn’t think it was worth the hassle).
Once in Quito, ask your taxi drive to drop you at Terminal Terrestre Quitumbe , the main bus station in the far south of the city. Once there you can walk up to a counter and ask for the next bus to Baños.
The bus takes about 3.5 hours, costs around $4, and may stop in Ambato on the way to Baños. If there is no direct bus to Baños, just buy a ticket to Ambato – there are frequent buses running between Ambato and Baños.
- Short on time? Here’s a 2-day round trip tour from Quito to Banos which includes transportation, a night of accommodation, an adventure tour, and a trip to Casa Arbol.
How to Get to Baños from Guayaquil, Latacunga, or Cuenca
The bus to Baños from Latacunga or Guayaquil will first stop in either Ambato or Riobamba, and then connect to Baños – you may need to switch buses or buy two tickets if the route is not direct.
For each location, there is no need to book in advance. Just take a taxi to the main bus station and look for signs to Baños, Riobamba, or Ambato. Ask at each ticket counter to see which one is leaving soonest.
- The bus from Guayaquil to Baños will take about 5.5 hours and cost around $7.
- The bus from Latacunga to Baños takes around 2 hours and costs under $5.
- The bus from Cuenca to Baños takes around 7.5 hours and costs about $10. There is also direct bus from Cuenca to Baños on Amazonas which will take about 6 hours and cost around $10.
From anywhere else in Ecuador: If you don’t see a direct bus to Baños at the bus station, look instead for buses heading to Ambato, which is the nearest city. De-board there and take one of the frequent buses to Baños, only an hour away. You can also look for buses to Riobamba and connect from there to Baños.
- Ecuador Travel Tip: As a rule of thumb, Ecuador buses typically cost around $1-2 per hour. So a 2 hour bus ride will be around $3-4, and a 6-hour bus ride will be around $10.
Our hostel in Banos, Ecuador was at the foot of this giant waterfall, right by the amazing thermal baths that are the town’s namesake.
Where to Stay in Baños, Ecuador
Budget: Ballin’ (Over $100)
- Samari Spa Resort: Ballin’ in Baños is surprisingly affordable considering the level of luxury that you’ll enjoy at Samari Spa Resort. From the stunning, decadently furnished rooms to beautiful hotel grounds to the pool to the spa and wellness center, everything about Samari Spa Resort will leave you feeling like royalty. Oh, also: there are sometimes peacocks. Just like, hanging out. How freaking awesome is THAT?! Compare prices & check availability on HotelsCombined
Budget: Mid-Range ($50-100)
- Destiny Hotel: 2 words – INFINITY POOL. The pool at Destiny Hotel is absolutely stunning, and its prime location on a terrace overlooking the town will deliver some of the most stunning views of Baños that you’ll find anywhere. Unwind after a long day of activities in the cocktail lounge or the jacuzzi next to the infinity pool on the terrace.Compare prices & check availability on HotelsCombined
Budget: As Cheap As Possible (Under $50)
- We stayed at the super-affordable Hostel Chiminea. For about $24 a night, we enjoyed a roomy private with an ensuite bathroom and a deck covered in flowers and hummingbirds. The hostel also has dorms with beds under $10 a night. As is standard for any decent hostel, there are laundry services, towel rentals, free Wi-Fi, and a kitchen that you can use for cooking after breakfast service is finished. But there’s ALSO a free pool, heated personal jacuzzis and massages (for a fee), and a stunning rooftop cafe with a view of the waterfall, mountains, and the town of Baños. We loved the location of Hostel Chiminea: it’s right next to the waterfall and thermal baths, directly across from an abundance of street vendors selling souvenirs and snacks, and close to the center of town with plenty of spas, adventure shops, restaurants, and scenic plazas. We think it’s one of the best hostels in Baños! Check prices & availability on Hostelworld
The colorful streets of Baños, Ecuador, nestled in a valley among the mountains – and one active volcano!
Things to Do in Baños, Ecuador
There are a TON of amazing things to do in Baños, from adventure sports to relaxation to stuffing your face. We’ve covered all of those, of course!
Baños offers a ton of adventure sports and activities, including horseback riding, mountain biking, rock climbing, paragliding, 4×4 rentals, multi-day jungle treks, and bungee jumping. You can take a day trip to the Amazon jungle with a tour like this one!
Honestly, during our week in Baños we only tried a small selection of what the town has to offer. Here’s our guide to the best things to do in Baños!
The famous Swing at the End of the World is at Casa Arbol in Banos, Ecuador!
1. Swing on the Tree at the End of the World at Casa de Arbol
Casa de Arbol is one of the top reasons people visit Baños, Ecuador: everyone’s seen that iconic picture, flying high above the mountains, leaving all your cares behind. Well, it’s a great picture, but don’t get your hopes up too high: you’re not actually that high off the ground, and getting that picture takes a bit of finagling.
But don’t let that dissuade you. You should visit Casa de Arbol because giant swings are super fun and there’s also a cable that you can swing on like a low-flying zipline, all for the $2 entrance fee. For the less-adventurous types, this is the perfect level of low-risk fun! There are 3 giant swings – one with employees that push you and a very long line, and 2 self-guided swings with much shorter lines. We tried all 3. Once you get the hang of swinging and stopping on your own, the self-guided swings are a blast.
Travel Tips for visiting the Casa de Arbol in Baños, Ecuador:
- Tour companies will offer you a shuttle to and from the Casa de Arbol for as low as $5 each. They leave multiple times a day and are great if you prefer the ease of shuttles and you don’t mind long lines, limited time, and huge groups of people. We opted for the self-guided option, which is just a bus that leaves from the center of town and goes straight to the Casa de Arbol. It cost half as much, we had as much time as we wanted to spend swinging to our hearts content, and we were able to avoid the long lines that developed every time one of the shuttle buses pulled up.
- When you pull up to the Casa de Arbol, you will immediately see a tree house with a swing at the top of a steep hill. This is not the Casa de Arbol – the Casa de Arbol is actually up a little trail and on the other side of the hill. But, this is a giant swing over a huge hill, and it’s cheaper than the Casa de Arbol (by $1) and has less lines. So by all means give it a try if you like. But the actual Casa de Arbol is to the right and up a short trail.
2. Shop for handicrafts and artisan-made souvenirs
In the center of Baños is a little street filled with stalls handicrafts and artisan-made souvenirs. I’m not going to lie to you: it’s not the cheapest place to buy these types of souvenirs, nor is there any guarantee that they are actually made locally or by Ecuadorian artists. But if you’re looking for a small souvenir to remember your stay, or a gift for loved ones, this is the spot.
Travel tips for buying souvenirs in Baños, Ecuador:
- The handicrafts are heavily marked up, and the shop owners are expecting you to haggle.
- If you spend too long looking at something, they’ll probably start lowering their prices for you.
- You’ll get a better deal and have a better chance of haggling if you buy multiple things in one shop. Since most of the shops offer similar items, do a lap before you decide what you want, and then try to get it all in place and haggle for a deal.
Yes, Baños is an adventure town. But it’s also a spa town, and offers tons of opportunities to relax and wind down. Here are our favorite ways to relax in Baños, Ecuador.
The Ruta de las Cascadas in Banos, Ecuador will take you past 7 absolutely stunning waterfalls. This is the Pailón del Diablo. Original photo credit: “Paílón del Diablo.” (CC BY 2.0) by Simon Matzinger
3. See a waterfall … or two… or seven
In addition to a giant waterfall next to the thermal baths, Baños is also home to the famous Ruta de las Cascadas! The route through the valley passes 7 jaw dropping waterfalls, plus countless other beautiful views.
You can complete the downhill route with a $6 mountain bike rental, or on a chiva/open air bus. Either can be booked at one of the many adventure shops in town.
One of the highlights on the route is the Pailón del Diablo, a waterfall park complete with an enormous suspension bridge. You can also zip-line or take a cable car over the gorge!
4. Relax in The Thermal Baths
The namesake of Baños, Ecuador is well worth a visit. Despite its location right on the edge of town, next to a huge and awe-inspiring waterfall, the baths do not seem to be a popular tourist destination. We were in the vast minority of gringos enjoying the baths on a Friday night! But trust us, the thermal baths are not to be missed.
On the night we visited, we walked over from our nearby hostel with our swimsuits and a towel, not knowing what to expect. We paid $3.50 to enter and rent the required bathing cap, and were promptly herded through the entrance, given a basket for our belongings and a very brief tour of the 2 story baths. There are 3 giant tubs with varying depths and water temperatures, showers – required before you enter the baths – and changing rooms.
After changing and dropping off our stuff – $1 to store our basket behind the upstairs counter – we were left shivering in our swimsuits, looking like confused, freezing cold gringos. Unsure of the correct protocol, we chose the downstairs tub at random because it was less crowded. This was the wrong choice: the downstairs tub is the hottest tub, and it’s less crowded because you can’t spend more than a few minutes in it at a time. After making a spectacle of ourselves shrieking at the boiling water against our ice-cold skin, we hurried upstairs to sit in one of the shallower, more crowded tubs.
Like Goldilocks and the 3 bears, this tub was just right. We finally felt our bodies relax into the warm water, gazing peacefully at the stars and the enormous waterfall right next to us. After a while in this tub, we felt brave enough to try the super hot tub again. This time, it felt incredible. We alternated between the upstairs and the downstairs tub a couple of times, feeling more and more relaxed and at-peace with the world with each rotation. By the time the baths were closing (around 9pm), it had begun to rain, which we welcomed with relaxed and pleasantly warm arms. We happily strolled back to our hotel in the pouring rain wearing only our swimsuits and feeling at peace with the universe. It was the best thermal bath experience we have ever had!
Travel Tips for visiting the Thermal Baths in Baños, Ecuador:
- Visit the baths at night. During the day, the sun makes the heat of the tubs unpleasant. At night, the cold air will feel absolutely incredible once you’re done with the tubs (it only sucks a little at first).
- Don’t be nervous if you don’t see many gringos, nobody seemed bothered by our presence (although they were amused when we tried to get into the super hot tub first).
- Complete a rotation of the tubs starting with the coolest and working up to the hottest for the most relaxing experience!
White water rafting on class IV rapids in the adventure town of Baños, Ecuador!
5. Go White Water Rafting on Rio Pastaza
One of the major attractions in Banos is rafting Rio Pastaza. This river takes rafters through class 3 & 4 rapids. What does this mean exactly? It means that rest is a rare luxury. If you like adrenaline pumping white water rapids, this is a must-do activity in Baños!
Jeremy’s group consisted of 16 people split in two boats. On each boat has a guide, and a rescue medic nearby in a kayak. Rio Pastaza is fast and bumpy but not dangerous, so the medics double as paparazzi. The highlight of the ride was when our guide flipped the boat (on purpose). It was scary, but we had a great laugh after the panic attacks subsided!
For 5 hours of white water rafting, you’ll pay around $30, including lunch, safety gear, transportation, and a wetsuit. Here is a white water rafting tour that you can book online in advance.
Travel Tips for White Water Rafting in Baños, Ecuador:
- If you don’t book online, you’ll want to head to an agency in town book a day or two in advance because tours leave early in the morning.
- Be sure to follow the guide’s safety instructions. He is trained and experienced and as long as you listen and follow along as he calls out directions, you’ll be fine. The guide will also give instructions on what to do if you’re ejected from the boat: basically, just float on your back and let the current carry you until you’re rescued by the kayak.
- If you wear glasses, get a glasses strap! They may look dorky, but they’re hella useful. You don’t want to lose your glasses in the water.
6. Get a Massage or Spa Treatment
Baños, Ecuador is as much a spa town as it is an adventure town. When you’re exhausted from your harrowing near-death experiences, a massage or a spa treatment will feel like absolute heaven. (It also makes a great way to spend a day while your more-adventurous partner is out doing completely insane things, if you’re me.) Walking down the streets of Baños, Ecuador you will be offered multiple spa treatments and prices from the many shops offering a variety of the same experiences. From chocolate face and body masks to facials to those little fish eating the dead skin off your feet (whatever floats your boat, I guess), Baños offers a full range of budget-friendly spa activities. If you’d rather have an immersive experience rather than stepping into a tiny shop right off the street, check out the more expensive hotels, complete with their own thermal baths.
Travel Tips for Massages and Spa Treatments in Baños, Ecuador:
- Most of the small shops have the same set prices for their services, and there isn’t enough information online to compare reviews. Massages will all cost $25-$35 for an hour.
- I picked my shop completely based on price and went with the cheapest option for a mani/pedi. It was OK for $12, but my cuticles were cut a bit too deep. I’d recommend not going with the absolute cheapest option.
Ziplining upside-down (aka in the Spiderman position) through the mountains in Baños, Ecuador!
8. Zipline Through Trees & Between Mountains
In Baños, the term Canopying is interchangeable for ziplining, because when you go zip-lining in Banos, you fly through a canopy of trees … and over a giant canyon. Ahhh!
The trip we booked took us on six different lines, totaling two kilometers (1.25 miles). One of the great things about this tour is you have the option of taking the lines in different styles: regular (seated), Superman, or even upside-down. Of course Jeremy did the upside-down Spiderman looking one without a second thought.
All in all, this is a fun half day tour, but be advised, there are some intense uphill climbs through the rainforest between lines. Also, if you’re afraid of heights … you’ll probably want to skip this one.
Tips for Ziplining or Canopying in Baños, Ecuador:
1. You’ll pay about $20 for 2 hours of zip-lining.
2. Do bring water for staying hydrated on the short hikes between lines.
3. Bring your camera! You can hold it in one hand while you fly across the valley.
7. Take a Canyoning Tour
Canyoning was hands down the activity Jeremy looked forward to most in South America. Canyoning means you alternate between adventure activities to work your way down a waterfall canyon. “Adventure activities” can include: waterfall rappelling, cliff jumping, zip-lining, or awkwardly sliding on your butt …. adventurously. Yes, all in one tour! Crazy, right?
Jeremy did the Chamana Canyon tour. The tour starts with two waterfall repels. Next the guide clips a rope to your back, tells you to lie down in the middle of the river, and the current gently takes you … right off the edge of a waterfall! Finally you’re tied into a harness at the top of a cliff and free fall backwards off the cliff until the guide slows you down at the last possible second! If you’re looking for a variety of adventure and a big dose of adrenaline all in one tour, you should definitely try canyoning. For 4 hours of canyoning, you’ll pay about $35. Here’s a canyoning tour you can reserve online in advance!
Travel Tips for Canyoning in Baños, Ecuador:
- Do the Cashuarco tour if you can! It requires 4 people and is only available during certain times of the year, but it’s supposed to be the best canyoning tour in Banos. We didn’t get a chance to try it, so let us know how it is!
- If you don’t book online, you’ll want to head to an agency in town book a day or two in advance because tours leave early in the morning.
- You won’t be able to carry a water bottle or wear a hydration pack. But the activities aren’t terribly strenuous or physically demanding. Drink a bottle beforehand and you’ll be fine.
Delicious Ecuadorian hot chocolate at Amore chocolate shop in Baños, Ecuador.
9. Drink Delicious Ecuadorian Hot Chocolate
Ecuador is known for its chocolate: grown farm fresh in the coasts and near the Amazon jungle, the chocolate here is local, organic, and incredibly good. It’s so good that hot chocolate is often the preferred drink of Ecuadorians, spurring the usually less-than-stellar coffee options. This is not the case in Baños, Ecuador! Baños is home to both incredible hot chocolate AND delicious coffee.
The best place to try some legit Ecuadorian hot chocolate is Arome Chocolate & Coffee. Arome Chocolate is THE place to get excellent chocolate in Baños, whether it’s a high end bar of Pacari chocolate (our absolute favorite), toasted cacao beans, or a slice of fudgy chocolate cake or tiramisu. Their specialty is hot chocolate: choose from a selection of options on the menu, or choose a custom-made cup of hot chocolate created from any chocolate bar in the store! We experimented with a few options and found them all to be heavenly.
What’s more, Amore also serves up some of the best coffee in town. Choose your location in Ecuador and your bean strength and you’ll be brewed up a fantastic cup of coffee – or add some of that famous chocolate to make it a delicious Mocha. There are five Amore locations around Baños, each specializing in chocolate, coffee, nuts or spices.
If you’re more into coffee than chocolate, head to Honey Coffee & Tea. Honey is the gorgeous, Instagram-worthy coffee shop of a long term traveler’s dreams: cozy enough to spend a whole day lounging and getting work done on your computer, and yummy enough to spend all day casually ordering food and dessert to go with your coffee. With 35 varieties of coffee and an inclusive selection of third-wave coffee brewing techniques – including V60, Siphon, CHUSPA, Vacuum, and Aeropress – this is the perfect spot for a coffee lover to spend a day unwinding after their adventures in Baños, Ecuador! (Note: Honey also has a huge selection of teas for the less caffeine-inclined.)
10. Stuff Your Face with Local Food
Baños, Ecuador is home to a plethora of fantastic food options at all budget ranges. Here’s our list of where to eat in Baños, Ecuador.
Eat at the Mercado in Baños
We love mercados in South America: they’re the cheapest place to buy groceries, always offer local produce and meats, and they typically have some fantastic cheap food options. The mercado in Baños, Ecuador is no exception. It’s situated directly across from the Supermarket, which makes comparing prices really easy (spoiler: the mercado is a zillion times cheaper).
In addition to produce and meat, half of the mercado is a huge cafeteria which is always filled with locals enjoying heaping plates of food. Travel tip #1: always eat where the locals eat! Most of the stalls in the mercado offer a variation of the same set menu: soup, juice, a plate of rice, chorizo, salad, and llapingacho (delicious grilled potato and cheese cakes), or a segundo option, usually chicken or beef – all for $2.50.
If you want to venture out from the set menu, there are also plentiful juice and batido stalls (a batido is like a milkshake, with fruit & milk blended together). There’s also a fantastic ceviche spot, which was some of the best ceviche we had in Ecuador, and cost only $2.
Even if you don’t eat a meal at the mercado, at least stop in for a llapingacho. They’re incredible.
Try the Almuerzo menu at any local restaurant
Cheap Almuerzo menus are common all over Ecuador, and Baños is no exception. Stop into any tiny local restaurant around lunchtime and ask for the almuerzo, and you’ll be served a filling multi-course meal for under $5. It usually includes juice, soup, a meat platter, and sometimes a small dessert. Our favorite spot near our hostel was next to the much more popular (and expensive) Ristorante Papardelle.
The view of Banos de Agua Santa from our hostel’s roof! The entire town is absolutely stunning, with mountain views and waterfalls everywhere you turn.
11. Stuff Your Face with Ecuadorian Street Food
We love street food, and we classify it in a different category than restaurants. The street food in Baños, Ecuador is perfectly safe to eat and absolutely delicious! You’ll find street food sold in stalls and out of carts all over town. Here is our list of recommendations for street food to eat in Baños, Ecuador!
- Choclo/Dry roasted corn kernels: You’ll find choclo all over Ecuador, topping your fresh ceviche or served as a crunch snack. In Baños, you’ll find choclo with a twist: it’s served in a little bag with warm steamed corn and fresh flavorful salsa, for the perfect fresh, crunchy, and warm snack – all for about $1! This yummy snack will keep you full for hours and is incredibly good.
- Llapingachos/Grilled potato and cheese patties: Our favorite Ecuadorian street food! These yummy potato cakes are served in doorways, out of carts, and in the mercado all over Baños for cheap. They’re so good! Don’t leave Baños without trying one … or three.
- Melcocha/Sugar Cane Taffy: Walk through town and you’re sure to find a few candy shops serving up the famous melcocha, a specialty found only in Baños, Ecuador. The sweet taffy is pulled right in front of the store, hanging on a hook in the door frame!
- Fresh Sugar Cane: Ah, delicious sugar cane: crunch and a little woody, but absolutely delicious. You eat it by chewing the sugar cane to get all the sugary goodness before spitting out the pulp. Fresh cut sugar cane is sold at the stalls directly across from our hostel on the way to the thermal baths, and a large bag is only $1. Careful not to eat it all in one sitting unless you want a stomach ache. If you’d rather not have to work for your sugar rush, the stalls also sell fresh sugar cane juice! My heart is racing just thinking about it…
- Espumillas/Meringue Cream: Found all over Ecuador served in ice cream cones and covered with syrup and sprinkles, Espumilla may ook like ice cream. But don’t be fooled: the soft, sweet meringue has a marshmallow-like texture. Flavored with guava, blackberry, and other fruits, espumillas are a unique street food that you must try in Baños, Ecuador.
We hope our guide to the best things to do Baños, Ecuador is helpful for your trip! If you’re looking to book a few tours in advance, take a look at these:
Psst: Planning a trip to Ecuador? We’ve got a bunch of useful resources to help you plan your trip!
- Backpacking Ecuador: Itinerary for 1 Incredible Month
- 30 Things No One Tells You About Backpacking in Ecuador
- How to Visit The Galapagos Islands Without a Cruise: A Complete Guide
- What to Pack for South America: 32 Backpacking Essentials
- Hiking the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador: Reverse Route Travel Guide
We’ve also created a massive 10-page eBook packed full of Ecuador travel tips. Sign up below and we’ll send you our FREE Ecuador Travel Guide, plus email you with tips to help you plan your trip!
What are you most excited to try in Baños? Drop us a comment below!
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![[SAN FRANCISCO] The Gold Rush. The Summer of Love. Silicon Valley. San Francisco is a chameleon city: every few decades it changes, morphing into whatever the next Big Thing is and attracting idealists, inventors, and forward-thinkers. It's a city of beauty, joy, art, and innovation.
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The story of San Francisco is written up and down its steep, winding streets. You'll feel the history of San Francisco as you're climbing Coit Tower for sweeping views of Alcatraz and the Bay, or taking Golden Gate Bridge selfies at Baker Beach (just watch out for nude photo-bombers in the background). You'll feel it as you're warming up with a steaming bread bowl full of clam chowder at Fisherman's Wharf, or kickin' it with the hippies in Haight-Ashbury who came in 1969 and never left. Reading beat poetry in Jack Kerouac Alley. Enjoying a sweet, soft coconut bun from a tiny bakery in Chinatown. Admiring the beautiful, powerful street art in the Mission district. Celebrating marriage and gender equality in the Castro. Trying to figure out if that's Mark Zuckerberg or just some other techie dude in a Facebook hoodie in the Financial District (I guess that's not history... yet). Each neighborhood in the city tells its own story.
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San Francisco also has its problems: rampant homelessness. Gentrification. Diminishing diversity. Corporate interests pushing the city forward without enough consideration of its long-term residents. Insane rent prices.
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It is a city that reflects America's extremes: you can feel the divide between the wealthy, zipping around on hoverboards or private cars and ordering everything from dinner to housekeeping on their smartphones; and those who are struggling to make ends meet - or struggling to survive on the streets.
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Although we live in Oakland, we have a lot of love for San Francisco and its complex past & present. You should visit and decide what you think of it yourself! We've got a post about where to stay when you visit, built on Jeremy's decade of experience as a local and a mindful approach to San Francisco's many complexities - link in bio.
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What do you associate with San Francisco? Have you ever been? Drop us a comment below!](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/8a9baaae44a32f2d3eeab63cfe008980/5DDFA537/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/67936545_442033469734625_6728412070039651574_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[SAN FRANCISCO] The Gold Rush. The Summer of Love. Silicon Valley. San Francisco is a chameleon city: every few decades it changes, morphing into whatever the next Big Thing is and attracting idealists, inventors, and forward-thinkers. It's a city of beauty, joy, art, and innovation.
.
The story of San Francisco is written up and down its steep, winding streets. You'll feel the history of San Francisco as you're climbing Coit Tower for sweeping views of Alcatraz and the Bay, or taking Golden Gate Bridge selfies at Baker Beach (just watch out for nude photo-bombers in the background). You'll feel it as you're warming up with a steaming bread bowl full of clam chowder at Fisherman's Wharf, or kickin' it with the hippies in Haight-Ashbury who came in 1969 and never left. Reading beat poetry in Jack Kerouac Alley. Enjoying a sweet, soft coconut bun from a tiny bakery in Chinatown. Admiring the beautiful, powerful street art in the Mission district. Celebrating marriage and gender equality in the Castro. Trying to figure out if that's Mark Zuckerberg or just some other techie dude in a Facebook hoodie in the Financial District (I guess that's not history... yet). Each neighborhood in the city tells its own story.
.
San Francisco also has its problems: rampant homelessness. Gentrification. Diminishing diversity. Corporate interests pushing the city forward without enough consideration of its long-term residents. Insane rent prices.
.
It is a city that reflects America's extremes: you can feel the divide between the wealthy, zipping around on hoverboards or private cars and ordering everything from dinner to housekeeping on their smartphones; and those who are struggling to make ends meet - or struggling to survive on the streets.
.
Although we live in Oakland, we have a lot of love for San Francisco and its complex past & present. You should visit and decide what you think of it yourself! We've got a post about where to stay when you visit, built on Jeremy's decade of experience as a local and a mindful approach to San Francisco's many complexities - link in bio.
.
What do you associate with San Francisco? Have you ever been? Drop us a comment below!")
![[BEACH PEOPLE] Some people are born to be on the beach. All year long, they dream about dipping their toes in bright blue water and frolicking on soft white sand, and they return from their beach vacation with sun-kissed skin, positively glowing with beachy bliss.
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I envy those people.
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While they’re happily soaking up the sun, I’m busy being burned to a crisp, accidentally inhaling mouthfuls of sand, swallowing saltwater, freaking out because I saw one single jellyfish, yanking tangles out of my hair, and trying to get sand un-stuck from places that sand should never, ever be.
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I am truly the least graceful person who has ever been on a beach. And it doesn’t help that finding a decent swimsuit as a size 16, almost 6-foot tall Amazonian woman is an exercise in torture and frustration (what is this, a bikini bottom for ANTS?!). Honestly, somehow I find it easier to pack for a trip to the literal Arctic Tundra than a day at the beach.
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Which is why I began my 3 days of beachy bliss in the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama by complaining. It was hot. It was sticky. There was sand EVERYWHERE. There weren't enough hammocks. There was too much sun. There were crabs (aka giant armored spiders) leaping around doing little crab waltzes or whatever. There was only electricity for an hour or so a day. There was no WiFi at all. I was convinced that this was hell.
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Clearly, it was not hell. But it took me a bit to adjust to being constantly covered in sunscreen and saltwater. By the end of our 3rd day in San Blas, I was in full relaxation mode: I hadn't worn shoes in 3 days, my hair was in goddess-mode, and I'd sent off at least 53 emails via my crappy Panamanian SIM card that said "I'm on an island with no electricity or WiFi, so I'll have to get back to you later." I was officially in Island Mode, and for one glorious, shining moment, I finally understood Beach People. (I will never be able to accept crabs, though. Crabs are horrifying.)
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Are you Beach People or would you prefer to cozy up to the fireplace in a mountain lodge with me?](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/5d9a4e126269bdfe72039acf23933817/5DE2F442/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/65644919_2534245056640344_7143638401448131207_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[BEACH PEOPLE] Some people are born to be on the beach. All year long, they dream about dipping their toes in bright blue water and frolicking on soft white sand, and they return from their beach vacation with sun-kissed skin, positively glowing with beachy bliss.
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I envy those people.
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While they’re happily soaking up the sun, I’m busy being burned to a crisp, accidentally inhaling mouthfuls of sand, swallowing saltwater, freaking out because I saw one single jellyfish, yanking tangles out of my hair, and trying to get sand un-stuck from places that sand should never, ever be.
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I am truly the least graceful person who has ever been on a beach. And it doesn’t help that finding a decent swimsuit as a size 16, almost 6-foot tall Amazonian woman is an exercise in torture and frustration (what is this, a bikini bottom for ANTS?!). Honestly, somehow I find it easier to pack for a trip to the literal Arctic Tundra than a day at the beach.
.
Which is why I began my 3 days of beachy bliss in the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama by complaining. It was hot. It was sticky. There was sand EVERYWHERE. There weren't enough hammocks. There was too much sun. There were crabs (aka giant armored spiders) leaping around doing little crab waltzes or whatever. There was only electricity for an hour or so a day. There was no WiFi at all. I was convinced that this was hell.
.
Clearly, it was not hell. But it took me a bit to adjust to being constantly covered in sunscreen and saltwater. By the end of our 3rd day in San Blas, I was in full relaxation mode: I hadn't worn shoes in 3 days, my hair was in goddess-mode, and I'd sent off at least 53 emails via my crappy Panamanian SIM card that said \"I'm on an island with no electricity or WiFi, so I'll have to get back to you later.\" I was officially in Island Mode, and for one glorious, shining moment, I finally understood Beach People. (I will never be able to accept crabs, though. Crabs are horrifying.)
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Are you Beach People or would you prefer to cozy up to the fireplace in a mountain lodge with me?")
![#ad [Trigger Warning: Eating Disorder] It took me a long time and a lot of hard work to love my body. Before my body and I loved each other, we were at war. I denied my body food. I mutilated my beautiful skin. And I attacked my own mind, verbally abusing myself from within in a torrent of vitriol, hate, and anger.
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In turn, my body rebelled. It ceased all non-vital functions, like growing my hair and nails, or menstruating. It denied me control of my own emotions, debilitating me with unpredictable fits of panic and terror. It focused my mind so intently on food that I had difficulty concentrating on anything else. And when the battle was at its worst, when I had denied my body even a single bite of food for over a week, my body retaliated by shutting down the functions of my heart.
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I was only 16 years old when my heart rate plummeted to 30 beats per minute. A doctor told me to start eating again, or I would die. I was dangerously underweight. But I made the decision to live.
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I don't talk too much about my ED because it makes me so incredibly sad. Because today, my body and I have a beautiful relationship. I worship my body, and it loves me right back. I treat my body with respect and it repays me with strength, endurance, and resilience. Together, we are an incredible team, capable of achieving any challenges or goals we dream up. And it makes me so sad to think back to the time when we weren't.
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But it's important for me to talk about it, openly and publicly, because I know some of y'all out there are struggling too. And I want to let you know that it's OK, I've been there - and it doesn't always have to be this way.
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No matter where you are in your journey to self-love, I want to challenge you to make peace with your body today. If you two are at war, call a truce. If you are reconciling, show yourself a little extra love today. One thing that helped me immensely during my recovery was to look at beautiful, positive images of women whose bodies looked like mine. So today, I'm following body-positive Instagrammers (got any faves?) and browsing @CaciqueIntimates!
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Tell me what you'll be doing to make peace with your body today!
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#FortheLoveofCurves](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/e447022c2d01bd83a732a7bc2cc5270f/5DE4AEC0/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.134.1080.1080/s640x640/67688744_1118377025017476_7306756110191464725_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "#ad [Trigger Warning: Eating Disorder] It took me a long time and a lot of hard work to love my body. Before my body and I loved each other, we were at war. I denied my body food. I mutilated my beautiful skin. And I attacked my own mind, verbally abusing myself from within in a torrent of vitriol, hate, and anger.
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In turn, my body rebelled. It ceased all non-vital functions, like growing my hair and nails, or menstruating. It denied me control of my own emotions, debilitating me with unpredictable fits of panic and terror. It focused my mind so intently on food that I had difficulty concentrating on anything else. And when the battle was at its worst, when I had denied my body even a single bite of food for over a week, my body retaliated by shutting down the functions of my heart.
.
I was only 16 years old when my heart rate plummeted to 30 beats per minute. A doctor told me to start eating again, or I would die. I was dangerously underweight. But I made the decision to live.
.
I don't talk too much about my ED because it makes me so incredibly sad. Because today, my body and I have a beautiful relationship. I worship my body, and it loves me right back. I treat my body with respect and it repays me with strength, endurance, and resilience. Together, we are an incredible team, capable of achieving any challenges or goals we dream up. And it makes me so sad to think back to the time when we weren't.
.
But it's important for me to talk about it, openly and publicly, because I know some of y'all out there are struggling too. And I want to let you know that it's OK, I've been there - and it doesn't always have to be this way.
.
No matter where you are in your journey to self-love, I want to challenge you to make peace with your body today. If you two are at war, call a truce. If you are reconciling, show yourself a little extra love today. One thing that helped me immensely during my recovery was to look at beautiful, positive images of women whose bodies looked like mine. So today, I'm following body-positive Instagrammers (got any faves?) and browsing @CaciqueIntimates!
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Tell me what you'll be doing to make peace with your body today!
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#FortheLoveofCurves")
![[FLASHBACK] We landed in Cartagena, Colombia for the first time ever on July 11th, 2016. The day before, we packed up what was left of of our belongings, said a tearful goodbye to our neighborhood cat friend Jasper, and boarded a plane to Cartagena, with no idea what to expect from the next year of travel.
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When we stepped onto the tarmac the Cartagena heat smacked us full on in the face. We were ill prepared for it. We were also ill prepared for the water we couldn't drink, the food we weren't quite sure how to order, the language we were struggling to speak, the culture that felt so unfamiliar to us, and the utter overwhelm of changing everything about our lives and giving up the comforts of a home we'd made for ourselves just to chase a crazy dream I'd been holding onto for a few years.
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We spent that first night in Cartagena cuddled up in one uncomfortable bed in our hostel dorm, crying. (We also tearfully sent an email to our cat friend's owners to ask if we could Skype with Jasper. They did not respond.)
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This trip, our 3rd visit back to Cartagena, felt like a world apart from that first miserable night. We were joined by a group of 16 high school students and 3 of Jeremy's amazing co-educators on our @take_flyte_org trip. We brought the group to dinner at our favorite local restaurant (La Casa de Socorro) and insisted they order our favorite dish (seafood soup). As we explored Cartagena together we pointed out murals on the walls that had changed over the years, new developments being built, restaurants we loved, our favorite picturesque alleys in Getsemani, even the hostel dog we'd played with at that very first hostel so many years ago (he didn't remember us). We greeted Cartagena like an old friend and lovingly introduced her to Jeremy's students.
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3 years ago, we were afraid that we'd ruined our lives by quitting our jobs and giving up perfectly good lives to seek out adventure on a whim. Little did we know that our paths - both personal and professional - would take us back to Cartagena again and again. Cartagena is our lucky city!
.
Have you returned to a place years later? How had you & the place you visited changed? Drop us a comment!](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/8510a401e0dde9bef0f0dc8efd38f7bd/5DE32002/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/66217194_2311686425735958_7775172171184034345_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[FLASHBACK] We landed in Cartagena, Colombia for the first time ever on July 11th, 2016. The day before, we packed up what was left of of our belongings, said a tearful goodbye to our neighborhood cat friend Jasper, and boarded a plane to Cartagena, with no idea what to expect from the next year of travel.
.
When we stepped onto the tarmac the Cartagena heat smacked us full on in the face. We were ill prepared for it. We were also ill prepared for the water we couldn't drink, the food we weren't quite sure how to order, the language we were struggling to speak, the culture that felt so unfamiliar to us, and the utter overwhelm of changing everything about our lives and giving up the comforts of a home we'd made for ourselves just to chase a crazy dream I'd been holding onto for a few years.
.
We spent that first night in Cartagena cuddled up in one uncomfortable bed in our hostel dorm, crying. (We also tearfully sent an email to our cat friend's owners to ask if we could Skype with Jasper. They did not respond.)
.
This trip, our 3rd visit back to Cartagena, felt like a world apart from that first miserable night. We were joined by a group of 16 high school students and 3 of Jeremy's amazing co-educators on our @take_flyte_org trip. We brought the group to dinner at our favorite local restaurant (La Casa de Socorro) and insisted they order our favorite dish (seafood soup). As we explored Cartagena together we pointed out murals on the walls that had changed over the years, new developments being built, restaurants we loved, our favorite picturesque alleys in Getsemani, even the hostel dog we'd played with at that very first hostel so many years ago (he didn't remember us). We greeted Cartagena like an old friend and lovingly introduced her to Jeremy's students.
.
3 years ago, we were afraid that we'd ruined our lives by quitting our jobs and giving up perfectly good lives to seek out adventure on a whim. Little did we know that our paths - both personal and professional - would take us back to Cartagena again and again. Cartagena is our lucky city!
.
Have you returned to a place years later? How had you & the place you visited changed? Drop us a comment!")
I love your guide and the beautiful pictures! I’d be scared to go ziplining though!
I’ve not read a post about Ecuador before – looks very interesting. And I am now craving teriyaki chicken! Looks like you had a fantastic time there.
I think a lot of people just visit the Galapagos and skip the rest of Ecuador! In our opinion, while the Galapagos are definitely the highlight of Ecuador, there’s also so much else to see and do!
I was in the Peace Corps in Ecuador in the 1970s and visited Banos among many other places. It is obvious to me that it has been turned into a gringo-tourist-shithole. So very sad.
I’d recommend you visit Banos again before you make any assumptions, Doug. I’m sure it’s changed in the past 50 years since you were there, but “shithole” isn’t a word I would use to describe one of my favorite places in Ecuador & South America. Actually it’s not a word I’d use to describe anywhere since he-who-shall-not-be-named used it as a derogatory term for every country that isn’t primarily inhabited by white people, but I digress…
I was there in 2016. It was a pleasant town surrounded by beauty. I will probably go back.
What an asshole.
Great post! Baños seems like the perfect place for outdoor activities (:
It definitely is! But it also has loads to offer for less adventurous folks who just want to relax in the thermal baths and get massages (…me…) It’s the perfect balance!
This is such an awesome guide! Pinned it for future Ecuador adventures. I’d LOVE to check out those thermal baths.
Thanks Samantha! The thermal baths were incredible, and so cheap & easy to get to!! Banos was a highlight of our entire trip to South America.
Love this article! I live in Cuenca and have been to Banos 4 times in the last couple of years (have to take every visitor 😉 )! I would definitely share this with travelers – it is refreshing to see some travel tips that are so thorough! I hope you enjoyed the rest of your time in Ecuador! 🙂
Thank you so much Kelly! We loved Banos! We only visited Cuenca for a few days but definitely need to go back to explore it more. I’m thrilled that you found our tips thorough! There is nothing better to us than the seal of approval from a local!
Hey! First of all : I love your post! Very informing for someone (like me) who plans to visit Banos very soon.
Just one question I have: I will spend a few weeks there and I am not sure what to wear. Can you give me an impression on how the temperature will most likely be and what you would reccommend wearing during the day and in the evening.
Thanks a lot!
Banos isn’t as hot as you’d expect for being right on the equator, because it’s nestled in the mountains. So pack a jacket and don’t expect to wear shorts every day! It does get warm during the day, just not HOT – and it gets cool at night, but not terribly cold. It tends to be in the mid-50’s-60’s, on average, sort of like the weather in San Francisco (which I think as year-round fall weather).
Great article! You can now take a direct bus from Cuenca to Banos for $10 with Amazonas.
Ooooh awesome!! Thank you so much for that info – we rely on useful data points like this to keep our resources up to date and useful. Thank again!
Thanks for writing this post on a budget, because that’s what I’ll be on by the time we get there. Ecuador looks amazing! We had thought about adding it in to our trip, but hadn’t confirmed. I think this post makes it official. It’s beautiful and there is so much to do!
Yay, I’m so glad you decided to add it to your trip! Have fun!
Oh my word, Banos is my JAM! The color, the hot springs, all the adventurous activs! Plus also food and hot chocolate. I need to get here ASAP.
I think of the crazy swing every time I hear Ecuador. You got such an amazing shot! Great to know there are so many other cool activities in Banos. But ziplining upside down?? Nope nope nope…Your husband is so brave haha.
Heading to Banos in a few days – this post was super helpful for deciding how I want to spend my time there! Thanks for all the great tips, links, and recommendations!
I’m so glad to hear that, Danielle! Have a blast!
LIa,
I am a high school teacher taking a group of 30 students to Ecuador in June to volunteer for a week, then do a little adventuring. We will have @ 7 days for “fun”. Would you recommend 3 on galapagos and 4 in Banos? We are on a super tight budget, but want to see all that we can. Hoping to find a hostel in Banos that could accommodate our whole group !
I actually would suggest spending your entire time in Banos – it’s much cheaper and there’s so much to see and do that can fill up a whole week! The Galapagos are insanely expensive but also difficult to do in 3 days, especially if you’re on a budget, because doing Galapagos the “fast” way is by cruise, which is super expensive. So our recommendation is to enjoy Banos!
PS – my husband is also a high school teacher, and we’re taking 17 of his kids to Colombia for a week this summer! Are you as nervous/excited about taking an international field trip as we are?! Eeek!!
We went to Banos a few years back (2014) and loved it. We had a driver and a guide that took us all around Quito, then Banos, before heading to Galapagos.
Now we are planning on heading back and this time with kids and grandkids. So more on a budget. We have a couple of rental vehicles from Quito to Banos and hope to have that as our transportation to see everything in Banos before driving to the coast. What is your thought on driving there???
While we were there we did eat at Pappardella along with eating at Eruption in an Hostel. Eruption was great. We also had gelato served in a bowl made of chocolate which was delicious but I don’t remember the name of that place. Our 60 minutes massage were $20 and the thermal pools was $3 to get in and .30 cents for the cap to cover your hair.
Our activities includes zip lining down the canyon, driving the Avenue of Waterfalls and stopping to ride the basket across the canyon to the two waterfalls and back, hiking to Pailon Del Diablo (what goes down must go back up on a hike) and ate lunch and dessert of empanadas across from the entrance. So so good along with the fruit juices. We also did the swing but no lines while we were there and only one swing hanging from the small treehouse. Another thing we did was drive to Alausi and ride the train to Devils Nose. It included lunch and local dancing. We spent three nights there did as much as we could.
Your article gave us many more options for this upcoming trip! So thanks for sharing your experience!
Hey Debe, thanks for sharing your experiences. You made me want to go back to Banos too! In terms of driving, generally I don’t recommend it… there are so many inexpensive buses and colectivos to get from Quito to Banos that it seems like an unnecessary expense. Not sure what the parking situation is like in town either. I’d suggest hiring a driver to see everything in Banos, and I think that would likely end up being cheaper unless you got an incredibly good deal or have too many people to fit in a standard car!
Baños is a great place! I went there with Gulliver Expedition and I really enjoyed my time there!