The Galapagos Islands are a destination that appears on most people’s bucket lists. From the clear turquoise water and white sand beaches to the incredible variety of unique animals and wildlife, the Galapagos Islands are a magical place to visit. We knew we wanted to visit the Galapagos Islands during our month in Ecuador, but as budget backpackers, weren’t sure we could afford it. Everyone seemed to visit the Galapagos Islands on a cruise, costing them thousands of dollars – PLUS airfare!
After some digging, we realized it was actually possible to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise. It sounded like it might be the best way to visit the Galapagos on a budget – and it was! Our week of backpacking the Galapagos Islands without a cruise was surprisingly budget-friendly – under $1k for 9 days and two people. Plus, without a cruise dictating where we went and when, we were able to see all that the Galapagos Islands have to offer at our own speed, without being surrounded by a crowd.
We were able to have a fantastic week and see all of the Galapagos Islands wildlife on our bucket list: blue-footed boobies, frigate birds, black marine iguanas, tropical island penguins, eagle rays, manta rays, sea turtles, land turtles, and more – all without a cruise! If you’re looking to visit the Galapagos Islands on a budget, we thoroughly recommend exploring the Galapagos by land. It was the most magical week of our entire 4 months of backpacking in South America, and we can’t wait to go back!
Here’s what you’ll find in our complete guide to the Galapagos Islands by land:
Table of Contents
We did say it was complete, right?
For even more information about the how to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, take a look at these guides:
- Galapagos Islands Packing List
- Santa Cruz Galapagos Island Guide: What to Do, Where to Eat, & Where to Stay
You can read about our week in the Galapagos in detail in these 2 posts:
We’ve also created a detailed 15-page downloadable guide to visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise. Sign up below to get the guide send straight to your inbox!
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This post was last updated January, 2023.
The Complete Guide to the Galapagos Islands by Land
Visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise is the best way to see the Galapagos Islands, hands down. But finding the information to pull together an itinerary for backpacking the Galapagos Islands by land is not easy.
Luckily, through lots of trial and even more error, we’ve figured it out for you! Any land-based Galapagos Islands trip will center around these 3 islands: Santa Cruz, Isla Isabela, and San Cristobal. They are the 3 inhabited islands, and it is from each of them that you will be able to embark on tours and day trips to see everything that the Galapagos has to offer.
We spent half the week doing day trips with Galapagos Islands guides (as is required for all locations on the uninhabited islands) and the other half blissfully exploring the 3 inhabited islands on our own, snorkeling and hiking to areas that don’t require a guide or a tour.
We booked all of our Galapagos guided tours in person once we arrived on the Galapagos Islands, and while that’s the most budget-friendly option, it also runs the risk of missing out on specific tours that have already filled up. Also, it requires spending a day running around once you arrive booking all your tours – and if you have limited time, that’s not ideal. (And kinda stressful.) So, if your budget can accommodate it, I’d recommend booking at least a few tours online in advance to make sure you’re able to do them.
One option I wish we’d known during our trip is that you can find some great multi-day land based tours with set itineraries, which takes a huge amount of planning off your shoulders! Here are a few fantastic options:
- 7-day Galapagos on a Budget Experience: This itinerary closely mirrors our trip! You’ll visit Santa Cruz and Isabela Island and be taking what I’d consider to be the best tours on each. And at just around $1,500 per person, it’s not much more than what we paid and a fantastic value for a week long Galapagos trip.
- 5 Day Galapagos Tour: If you’re short on time or money, this 5-day option for just under $1,000 is great. You’ll stay on Santa Cruz but still get a chance to visit Isabela Island on a day trip and experience Las Tintoreras, the best Isabela tour.
How to Get to the Galapagos Islands
The only way to get to the Galapagos Islands is to fly from Ecuador. There are two cities with airports that frequently fly into the Galapagos: Quito and Guayaquil. All flights are with either Avianca, LATAM, or a new national airline called Equair, all of which are reputable and reliable South American airlines. We booked our flight from Quito to Baltra with Avianca using credit card points, which saved us a huge amount of money.
There are two airports on the Galapagos to fly into:
- Baltra: Baltra is the airport closest to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. It’s super easy to get from Baltra to Puerto Ayora, and everyone will be headed in the same direction. There’s a shuttle service to the ferry from Baltra to Santa Cruz Island which costs $5. From the Santa Cruz ferry dock, you can either take a bus (the cheap, slower way) or a pickup truck taxi (the expensive, faster way) to Puerto Ayora.
- San Cristobal: San Cristobal airport is right on San Cristobal island, so this is the best place to fly into if your first stop is San Cristobal.
Travel Tips for Flying to the Galapagos Islands
Visiting the Galapagos Islands is well worth the extra steps that you’ll need to take to get there. Due to the islands’ protected status, there are some hoops to jump through. Here’s what you need to know:
- Make sure to complete the Transit Control Card before your trip. The TCC helps monitor travel activity to the Galapagos, and costs $20/person and a little bit of online paperwork. Once your trip is booked but before your flight, visit the official registration page. Choose English as your language, enter your Passport information, and continue through the following pages entering in all of your booking and itinerary details. Once you’ve submitted your registration, at the airport in Quito or Guayaquil you’ll need to go to the Governing Council of Galapagos counter and pick up the physical Transit Control Card. You will have to present your ID (your passport) and pay $20 cash per person. Hold onto that card and keep it safe as you will be asked for it when checking into your outbound flight.
- The check-in process at the airport takes a while for any flight headed to the Galapagos Islands. You’ll be given some paperwork to do to let you into the island. Then, you’ll go through an extra security checkpoint for certain items that aren’t allowed into the Galapagos, like most raw produce. There are lines for each of these stops, and depending on the amount of cruise-goers leaving that day, it might take a while (for us, it was around an hour). Allow yourself more time than usual.
- When you arrive at the Galapagos Islands airport, you’ll be subject to even more paperwork, and you’ll have to pay the $100 entrance fee. We know, $100 is steep! But the entrance fee goes towards conservation, breeding of endangered species, research, habitat protection, and other really wonderful services that keep the Galapagos Island the magical wildlife haven that it is, kinda. In reality, it actually goes to ALL the National Parks of Ecuador which have no entry fee themselves and only a small portion to the Galapagos, which is why they now charge for Las Grietas and the Tortoise Breeding Centre.
- If you can, fly into one airport and out of the other. We flew in and out of Baltra by Santa Cruz Island, so we based ourselves in Puerto Ayora. 9 days wasn’t enough time for us to stay on all 3 islands, and we missed out entirely on San Cristobal. If you can, schedule a flight into Baltra and out of San Cristobal or vise versa to give yourself more time and flexibility for a greater variety of tours.
Be a Responsible Traveler in the Galapagos
The Galapagos Islands are a fragile ecosystem, both supported and threatened by tourism. By obeying five incredibly simple rules, we can mitigate harm to the Galapagos:
- Do not litter. Do we have to show you pictures of turtles strangled by plastic 6-packs or birds choking on plastic bags? Because that’s what happens when you litter. If you so much as throw your cigarette butt on the ground, you might as well be murdering an innocent animal. Don’t do it!
- Do not venture to places where signs say not to. I don’t care about your sunset shots, there’s erosion and turtle nests.
- Do not feed the animals. It makes them dependent on humans because they realize they don’t have to hunt.
- Do not touch or go within two meters of an animal if you can help it. This sign is posted all over the Galapagos. I know sometimes it’s hard to follow. Sometimes a bird lands on you. Sometimes you have to step over sea lions. Sometimes animals approach you. It’s a rule of thumb in a lot of cases, but be mindful of your distance.
- NEVER use a flash on an animal! Ever! Not just in the Galapagos. Anywhere, ever. Flashing a bright, unexpected light at an animal’s face scares them, and makes them erratic. It could damage their eyes, which are often more refined and sensitive than a human eye. If there are too many flashes, the animals may think that they’re in danger, which could lead to a migration issue (they could abandon their primary food source, for example). Your photography is not that important. Know your place as a guest in the animal’s territory.
Please take a look at our in-depth guide to ethical and sustainable tourism full of more tips to mitigate our impact as travelers.
Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos
Santa Cruz is one of the hubs of the Galapagos Island, and home to Puerto Ayora, a bustling coastal town on Santa Cruz Island. You’ll find many of the best restaurants, hotels, and day tours in Puerto Ayora. Santa Cruz is home to Baltra, one of the Galapagos’ two airports, so you’ll likely be flying in or out from here.
Although Puerto Ayora is one of the Galapagos’ largest towns, Santa Cruz island is absolutely teeming with wildlife! Around every corner is another opportunity to see brightly colored crabs, snoozing sea lions, and cuddling marine iguanas.
To get to Santa Cruz Island, you’ll either fly into Baltra Airport or take a ferry from San Cristobal.
- If you’re flying into Baltra, there’s a little bit of an extra journey to get into Puerto Ayora. First you’ll board a quick, free water taxi to a dock. From the dock, you’ll either board a white pick-up truck taxi or take the inexpensive bus. It takes 45 minutes to get into town, but the bus will take longer as you’ll need to wait for it to fully fill up before it leaves, which might be a while as flights arrive. The bus will take you to the market at the center of town, about half a mile from the sea and most hostels.
- If you’re coming from San Cristobal, you’ll take one of the twice-daily ferries to Puerto Ayora. It’s best to purchase your tickets at least a day in advance as their seats are limited – you can book your ticket online on Bookaway. The ride is about 2 hours. Pop a Dramamine before you leave to head off seasickness!
See this post for even more information about Puerto Ayora.
Tips for Visiting Puerto Ayora
- The Puerto Ayora fish market is a must-see and perfectly captures the magic of the Galapagos Islands. Lupe the Sea Lion is a regular at the Puerto Ayora fish market. She positions herself behind the counter directly underneath the cutting board, where she knows she’ll get fed scraps and skin from the fresh fish fillets all day long! She’s like a pet dog that’s also an adorable sea lion. We want one!! You’ll also find a small crowd of hovering pelicans and herons, and sometimes napping sea lions as well. Make sure to stop by during the week when it’s open!
- Most places in Ecuador don’t accept credit cards, or charge extra to do so. The Galapagos Islands are no exception: cash is king. Luckily, there are ATMs galore on Puerto Ayora and loads of shops, restaurants and bars to spend your cash in!
- Bring sunscreen with you from the mainland. It’s insanely expensive here, and you’ll need it for the extra strong rays due to the proximity to the Equator. Make sure to bring reef safe sunscreen for when you’ll be in the water, to protect the coral reef and other marine wildlife that live in the Galapagos! This is our favorite reef safe sunscreen.
- There is a huge grocery store right by the main dock in town, where we picked up groceries for snacks and breakfast. You can also pop to the top floor for a cheap coffee and pastry with a sea view. But keep in mind that most hotels won’t have a kitchen.
Where to Stay in Puerto Ayora
There are plenty of affordable hotels in Puerto Ayora! Expect decently sized private rooms with private bathrooms, hot water, towels, drinkable water, and the works for around $50-70 a night, or a bit higher if you opt to include breakfast. You’ll want to stay within wa
There are plenty of affordable hotels in Puerto Ayora! Expect decently sized private rooms with private bathrooms, hot water, towels, drinkable water, and the works for around $50-70 a night, or a bit higher if you opt to include breakfast.
Most hotels in Santa Cruz are located within a 10-minute walk from the docks, kiosks, and grocery stores in Puerto Ayora. But a few pricier, more luxurious hotels are located on the Punta Estrada Waterfront near the quiet Alemanes Beach. It’s a short water taxi ride back to the main stretch in Puerto Ayora. (And very close to Las Grietas!)
Here are our picks close to the main stretch of Puerto Ayora:
- Mid-Range Hotel: Sueno Silvestres is located close to the Charles Darwin research center and a few blocks away from the beach & main street of Puerto Ayora in a nice quiet and private area. Our room was large, hot water was plentiful, there were free towels and drinkable water provided, and the owner Carlos was friendly and welcoming. Breakfast is available for an extra fee.
- Vacation Rental: This spacious modern loft has ocean views EVERYWHERE – from the living room, the private balcony. This sunny little apartment nestled in the treetops is just a 5-minute walk away from the main town stretch – AND it’s under $100/night!
- Budget-Friendly Hostel: Hostal Vista al Mar has dorm rooms (including all-female rooms) and a guest kitchen and a garden for $15-20/night. That’s an amazing value for the Galapagos!
Here are our picks for where to stay in Punta Estrada:
- Luxury Hotel: Finch Bay Hotel is hands down the nicest hotel in Santa Cruz. Think luxury everything. There’s even a private dock with a private yacht for guests. Amenities include free Wi-Fi, A/C, a gorgeous swimming pool and restaurant, and a pier with yachts to visit the islands. Breakfast with bacon, sausages, pancakes, fresh fruits and eggs is served daily.
- Boutique Hotel: Hotel Angermeyer Waterfront Inn is in a picturesque hotel made of lava stones and driftwood. Huge windows overlook the sea as you dine on your included breakfast or enjoy a cocktail by the fireplace. Sunbathe, chill, or snorkel on the private waterfront!
Where to Eat & Drink in Puerto Ayora
- The Kiosks/Los Kioskos are the best place to eat in Puerto Ayora. We honestly wouldn’t have found Los Kioskos if not for asking a few locals! The Kiosks comprise seafood alley, a street lined with small, locally-owned restaurants all cooking variations of the same incredibly fresh, locally caught seafood purchased from the fish market earlier in the day. You’ll hear sizzling from the charcoal parillas and smell smoky, grilled fish long before you stumble across this little alley. The kioscos are located at Baltra & Charles Binford. It’s easy to walk from anywhere in town or you can also always take a cheap pickup truck taxi. If you need to, ask any local for help finding los kioskos – they’ll all know.
- For a small and cheap dinner, walk up to the market (corner of Avenida Baltra and Islas Duncan) from 6pm onwards for empanadas. Two stalls serve savory and sweet (Nutella and banana – suuuuuper heavy but so yummy) empanadas for $1.5-2.5, with salads juice or the traditional colada morada, a thick drink from cornflour, pineapple juice and berries ($1).
- The best coffee in Puerto Ayora that we found was at 1835 Coffee Lab, a roastery serving locally grown Galapagos coffee.
- You’ll find plenty of places to get drinks for Happy Hour along Charles Darwin avenue, the main street in Puerto Ayora. Stroll through around sunset to take advantage of the best 2-for-1 drink offers!
- Your best ice cream after a long day at the beach is Galapagos Deli. One scoop is biiiiig and two are too much, but we have a tip for you: You can ask for two flavors in one scoop, so try creamy chocolate with a local fruit, such as Mora (the locally grown blackberry).
- Try a typical local breakfast at Tropic bird Cafe: facing the sea right next to the fish market, this $5 breakfast and lunch spot is actually very popular with the locals. Try an encebollado with chifle (fish soup with a side of fried plantain chips to crush up in the soup).
Activities and Day Tours from Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is the main hub for the Galapagos Islands, and a good home base to do the Galapagos without a cruise. There are plenty of activities you can do on the island itself, plus loads of day trips and tours. We recommend booking your Puerto Ayora day tours as soon as you arrive on the island. To book a day trip or tour, just find any tour operator (their offices are all over town) or visit the kiosk near the docks. Be aware that you’ll need to pay for your day tour up front with cash.
We’ve included information and tips on the best day trips and tours from Puerto Ayora that we enjoyed. There are many, many more that we didn’t get a chance to experience! Here’s a great resource with more helpful information on the other activities in Santa Cruz Island.
Snorkel in Las Grietas
Las Grietas is a beautiful clear pool between two sheer volcanic cliff faces, and in our opinion, it’s the best snorkeling on Santa Cruz Island by far.
During midday when the sun is high, the pool is a bright, clear blue, and the sun’s rays sparkle all the way to the bottom of the deep pool, making for incredible photos and views.
You can jump off the dock into the water if you like, or climb up the cliffs to jump from the rocks if you dare!
To get to Las Grietas, take a water taxi from the docks and ask for Punta Estrada or just say you’re going to Las Grietas – they’ll know what you mean. It’s a short ride and the water taxi is under $1. From the dock, you’ll stroll along the boardwalk (the only path) for about 15 minutes past a small cove, then pink salt flats, until you arrive at the entrance.
Once you arrive, you’ll sign in and wait for your turn to enter with a group of travelers and a guide. (When we first visited in 2016, this was a self-guided snorkel spot, but that has since – wisely – changed.)
Your guide will take you to one of two entrances. From there you can access all 3 of the pools in Las Grietas through climbing or swimming – the third pool is through an amazing underwater cave!
- Travel Tip: Head to Las Grietas around noon to beat the cruise crowds and catch the most sparkly, sunny hours. When the cruises show up they make tons of noise and scare away all the fish. You’ll want to clear out by 5pm.
Swim and Kayak in Tortuga Bay
Tortuga Bay is named as one of the most beautiful beaches in Ecuador, but it’s because of its pristine white sand, not because it’s teeming with turtles. Also, the visibility in the water was awful for snorkeling. We kayaked around the bay looking for rays, sharks, and turtles, and only managed to see a few tiny fish.
It was, however, a great beach day! It was worth the hike out even if the snorkeling wasn’t. We recommend spending a day relaxing on the beach, swimming, and kayaking in Tortuga Bay.
Tortuga Bay is a lovely hour-long walk from Puerto Ayora, or you can take a water taxi ($10 each way) that goes around the perimeter of the island to and from Puerto Ayora. Catch one at the main docks in Puerto Ayora. Check timetables though or you may miss the last one and end up walking back!
The walk to Tortuga Bay takes about an hour and a half. From the main stretch of Puerto Ayora, you’ll begin by heading down Baltra Avenue (a red cobblestone street with a bike lane) to Charles Binford Street, which takes you out of town. At the end of the street is a staircase, which leads to a hilltop kiosk where you’ll need to sign in to enter the park. You can, of course, take a taxi or bike to the entrance if you’d rather skip this 10 minute walk – but you’ll be walking from here anyway!
From the kiosk is a smooth cobblestone path that you’ll walk down for about 45 minutes. It’s not the prettiest walk unless you enjoy seeing the same cactus and stubbly tree scenery for 45 minutes, but you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with an absolutely stunning view once you reach the beach. Unfortunately, this beach is too dangerous for swimming, so you’ll need to walk a further 15 minutes or so down the beach to reach the end, where you’ll find the quiet horseshoe-shaped bay and its secluded little beach.
Playa Mansa, the calm, lagoon-like part of the beach, is where you can finally find shade and – if you are lucky on a quiet day – spot little sharks in the shallow water. Set up to relax, swim, rent a kayak, or climb lava rocks to see nesting marine iguanas and watch turtles swim in the open ocean.
- Travel Tips: Pack in everything you will need for the day as there is nowhere to buy anything at the beach. We advise bringing tons of sunscreen and sun protection (the sun is much stronger here on the equator!), a lot of water (remember you have a long sunny hike to and from Tortuga Bay), a packed lunch and snacks, toilet paper and a plastic bag (there isn’t a bathroom, but you can find a spot if you need one in the bushes – just be sure to pack your toilet paper out with you!), a towel, and of course your swimsuit! We don’t recommend snorkelling here,
Visit Tortoise Reserve
You’re not going to go to Galapagos without seeing its most famous inhabitant, right? While you may spot them on the side of the road or go to a breeding center, you can see them in all their glory (and gigantic size!) at a ranch in the Highlands of Santa Cruz Island.
Thought you were on a flat island? Think again! Inland, Santa Cruz Island rises up to 2,835 ft. The areas with the higher elevation are known as the Highlands, and they are cooler than the coastal plains – which make them the perfect habitat for Galapagos tortoises!
There are two main ranches to choose from. They each cost $5, which includes a guide to show you around, and have a restaurant and café should you want a snack or lunch overlooking the tortoises.
You can book a day trip to a tortoise reserve (which also includes lava tunnels) online, which is the easiest way to visit as your transportation will all be taken care of.
Or, you can visit on your own. To get there, you can take a $40 taxi round trip. Or, for a more budget-friendly and adventurous option, hop on a bus (about $1) from Puerto Ayora to Santa Rosa. Once in Santa Rosa, you might be able to find a taxi, but if not, then it’s about an hour and a half down the only path in the village until you see the sign for the ranches, Primicias and El Chato.
El Chato has three small lava tunnels, so you can start with a shorter one and work your way up to the longer, darker ones (in case you get claustrophobic!). Primicias has one, almost a mile-long tunnel with no way of exiting earlier or turning around.
- Travel Tip: Don’t wear your best clothes — you’ll be walking through high grass, crawling into an empty tortoise shell, and walking around muddy fields, so be prepared! And bring a sweater and/or raincoat; even when it’s sunny on the coast, it can get very wet up in the highlands – if it’s muddy, the ranches will provide rainboots. Be sure to bring socks, both for borrowed rainboot purposes and to avoid potential ant bites in the high grass.
Swings at Highland Views
Highland Views is a farm inland – in the higher elevation, cooler part of Santa Cruz island known as the Highlands – that’s open to tourists ($5). Here you can walk around the farm and take un stunning views that stretch all the way across the island to the sea, befriend and feed farm animals, and see a demonstration of how they make sugarcane juice. But the real draw are what Instagrammable dreams are made from: swings!
How crazy you want to go on the swing is up to you: there are no rules – and no safety belts. Stand up or simply sit; either way, the first moment you swing your feet forward and overlook the entire island and see all the way to Santa Fe is exhilarating.
Tip: You’ll get the best picture if your photographer stands on the side of the big posts holding the swing.
Oh, and don’t forget to chill in the hammock and pet the dogs before you leave!
- To get to Highland Views, you can take a taxi for $15. Or for the cheaper and more adventurous route, catch a bus from the corner of Baltra Avenue and Isla Duncan to El Cascajo for $1 – there is one in the morning and one after lunch. From Cascajo, walk back down the hill you came up with and you’ll find the path up to Highland Views.
Garrapatero Beach
Garrapatero Beach is a hidden gem in the Galapagos – a stunning quiet beach (except on weekends) where you can swim and kayak in the crystal clear water, relax on the soft white sand, or stroll along the beach laced with volcanic lava rock.
There’s not much to see in the water, so leave your snorkel gear at your hotel, but the landscape is gorgeous. Spend all day sitting in the shade, watching the pelicans on the water and jumping in the waves. And keep an eye out for flamingos!
Plan for an all-day excursion and pack a lunch to bring with you (we recommend a pulled pork sandwich from Island Deli). There is a bathroom and changing area available here, so you can shower before you head back.
- To get to Garrapatero Beach, you can take a taxi from Puerto Ayora (about $20 each way) – be sure to let them know you’ll need a return ride. To add a scenic vista, negotiate for your taxi to drive you back via the highlands. It costs a little more, the views are worth it as you return home. You’ll also get a chance to breathe in the cool, high-altitude, air for a while – a refreshing change after a long day at the beach!
- You can also rent bikes in town ($10-15, ask for a lock) and bike there, a little under 5 miles (prepare for hills). You will stop at least twice to enjoy the view and snap pics, or just because there’s a tortoise on the road.
Santa Fe Island Day Trip
We took the Santa Fe Island day tour from Puerto Ayora. The tour was over 8 hours long: we left at 8am and returned at 5pm.
First we spent over an hour relaxing on a beach. None of the group knew we were going to be parked at a beach for over an hour, so nobody had brought anything to do, blankets, sunglasses, etc – we were all prepared to just hop in the ocean and snorkel. There was a lot of grumbling and boredom. I spent an hour building a sand castle. There are worse ways to waste time, but I do wish we’d had some advance notice.
Next we went to a rocky cliff face to snorkel. The current was incredibly strong; this is not your average relaxing snorkeling and swimming was difficult! We did see some pretty fish – the water was much deeper than most of the other tours we went on.
After snorkeling, we went to another area, a bright blue lagoon, where we finally were able to swim with sea lions along the rocks where they lay relaxing. Then a provided lunch, then another optional hour for swimming, and then an odd 30 minutes of our boat trying to catch fish for the next day’s lunch; then finally we returned.
The best part of this tour was that it wasn’t rushed; we weren’t constantly having to keep up with a group or all trailing the same animals. Also, there are 3 separate locations, 2 of which have unique snorkeling opportunities, so it wasn’t repetitive or boring at all.
- Travel Tip: If you do this tour, do it earlier in your trip as you’re unlikely to see much that’s new and exciting if you’ve already been snorkeling a lot. We recommend bringing your own wetsuit and snorkel gear for this tour – the water is cold, and the cheap provided masks broke in the strong water! Head to our Galapagos Packing List for more suggestions. You can book the Santa Fe tour online in advance, or book at the docks once you arrive.
Isabela Island (Isla Isabela)
Isabela Island is the BEST Galapagos Island for wildlife. It’s also a local favorite: every local recommended that we spend most of our trip on Isabela Island!
Seahorse-shaped Isabela Island is one of the three inhabited Galapagos islands. Its main town, Puerto Villamil, has plenty of hotels and restaurants. Puerto Villamil is small, with unpaved sand roads. From end to end, you can walk the entire town in 10 minutes. In comparison to bustling Puerto Ayora, Puerto Villamil is tiny and sleepy – and far more tropical feeling.
Food and hotels cost far more here, and there are fewer options. Strangely, we didn’t find the same plentiful seafood options here as we did in Puerto Ayora. Restaurant food was mostly lackluster and expensive.
There aren’t many stores on the island, so we recommend buying food at the grocery in Puerto Ayora and bringing as much as you can in to save money, but avoid fruit as it will be taken from you before boarding your ferry. Although we only spent a few days staying on the island, we saw TONS of wildlife.
There are a lot of great tours and other spots that we didn’t get a chance to visit! You can find more information about activities on Isabela Island here, and read more about our time in Isla Isabela here.
How to Get to Isabela Island/Isla Isabela
You can only get to Isla Isabela from Santa Cruz Island – there is no ferry from San Cristobal! The journey is a little over two hours and can get very bumpy, so take sea sickness tablets like Dramamine before leaving (these will be essential throughout your Galapagos trip). Alternatively, there is a small 8-seater airplane but it will cost you about $200.
To buy a ferry ticket to Isabela Island, you can book online on Bookaway. Booking online means you’re guaranteed a seat on the days you want – ferries do fill up!
Alternatively, you can ask any tour agency in Puerto Ayora – they’re all selling the same tickets. For the most comfort and forward-facing seats, we recommend asking for a boat called the Sigiloza. It’s best to book your tickets to and from Isabela Island a day or two in advance to make sure you can get a seat!
If you don’t wish to stay overnight, you can book a day trip to Isabela Island from any tour agency in Puerto Ayora.
Where to Stay on Isabela Island
Although Puerto Villamil is tiny, there are plenty of comfortable places to stay on Isla Isabela. The quiet sandy seaside town will feel like island heaven. But don’t expect bargain prices – everything from electricity to coffee must be shipped to the island from the larger Puerto Ayora, making costs that much higher.
Here are our picks for where to on Isla Isabela for any budget.
- Hotel Albemarle: Set in a Mediterranean-style house located right on Cuna del Sol Beach, Hotel Albemarle features a lush garden with an outdoor pool. Decorated with tiled floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, the large rooms at the Albemarle Hotel are cozy and cute – and air-conditioned! Each room features private marble bathrooms and either sea or pool views. If you visit during Carnaval in late February, you’ll be steps away from the beachfront party!
- Drake Inn: If you like oceanfront views, Drake Inn is an amazing value. Located across the street from the beach, you’ll be treated to stunning sea views from the private rooftop terrace. Each room here will provide you with air conditioning, a private balcony, and an included breakfast. Drake Inn is a located 3-minute walk from the Puerto Villamil town center.
- La Casa de Marita: Situated directly on the beach, La Casa de Marita has all of the amenities you want at a super reasonable price. There’s free Wi-Fi, a buffet breakfast, A/C, private balconies, hammocks to swing in as you watch the sunset, an on-site restaurant, and a pool. You’ll pay extra if you want ocean-front views, but you’re only ever a few steps away from the beach.
- Hostal Cerro Azul: This budget-friendly hostel is only budget-friendly because it’s not directly on the beach, but it’s very close to both the beach and the main stretch of Puerto Villamil, making it a fantastic value! The amenities are just about all there: A/C, private rooms and bathrooms, hammocks, a common area, and free Wi-Fi (in common areas only).
Tips for Visiting Isabela Island
- Bring cash with you – there are no ATMs on Isabela Island! Most places won’t accept credit cards or will charge a high fee to do so (this is the case throughout Ecuador). Bring USD from home, or stock up at Puerto Ayora.
- Where to Eat on Isabela Island: There is one block in Puerto Villamil with several similar restaurants all lined up next to each other. Our favorite of the bunch was El Encanto de Pepa. It has generous dinner specials like grilled fish, octopus, or fried shrimp with rice, fries, and juice for $7. For a cheap dinner, check out a little hole in the wall called El Pipo on the main street just after the main square, on the right-hand side where you can get empanadas larger than your plate for $1-1.5 most nights. For a full meal, head to the market at lunch or dinner and grab something for $6-7. In the late afternoon, Royal Rock at the end of the pier makes warm, gooey Yucca bread for $1 which makes for a great sunset-watching snack to take away
- Where to get coffee on Isabela Island: For a good coffee, go to Pan y Vino. It’s also a good spot to splurge on a nice dinner with a charcuterie board and wine. You can also cheap $1 coffee at a little juice shop near the main stretch of restaurants. It’s the cheapest we found. You could also get sh*tty instant coffee from the grocery store in Puerto Ayora and bring it with you. If you are a serious coffee snob we recommend preparing in advance and packing Alpine Start instant coffee to avoid any coffee anxiety.
Activities & Tours from Isabela Island
Nobody visits Isabela Island for sleepy little Puerto Villamil (sorry, but it’s true). The reason you must visit Isabela Island is for the fantastic day trips, tours, hikes, and wildlife excursions! Below are our favorite of the bunch, along with tips and suggestions.
Las Tintoreras Tour
Las Tintoreras are just off the main dock of Isabela Island, so this is a shorter guided tour than most since there is little travel time. This is a fantastic tour for snorkeling, but it can be crowded and quick.
We had 16 people in our tour and only stayed in the water snorkeling for an hour. As soon as we spotted a turtle or an eagle ray, a crowd of people was suddenly jostling us for pictures and the animal would quickly flee.
After an hour in the water, we headed over to a nature walk in a lava rock field to see some iguanas and a small inlet where white-tip reef sharks were resting.
The Las Tintoreras tour is a fantastic tour for less experienced snorkellers, travelers who are not a fan of long bumpy boat rides, or anyone who has limited time as the full experience is under 3 hours. We’d also recommend it for travelers with kids. You can book it online on Viator or once you arrive at Pahoehoe Tour Agency, off of the main strip in Puerto Villamil.
- Travel Tips: The water is chilly, so we recommend wearing a short wetsuit. If you’d like to spend more time in the water, we recommend looking into a kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras, which includes 3 hours on the water and no nature walk, meaning there is much more snorkeling. It’s also a much smaller tour and leaves whenever you like. You can book the kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras at Pahoehoe Tour Agency, off of the main strip in Puerto Villamil.
The Lava Tunnels Tour/Los Tuneles
Los Tuneles/The Lava Tunnels tour from Isabela Island was our favorite guided tour by far. It’s about 5 hours long, including 45 minutes of travel each way.
Once you arrive, you’ll be snorkeling for a good hour and a half, which allows for a more relaxed speed and less frantic jostling for pictures. We saw countless beautiful fish, sleeping sharks in caves formed by molten lava, several giant sea turtles, and a few rays.
Then we got back into the boat to eat a provided lunch, and the ship captain carefully navigated us into the lava tunnels where we saw a penguin and a nest of baby blue-footed boobies with their parents! It was truly magical and everything we hoped for in a Galapagos tour.
- Travel Tips: You can book this tour online in advance on Viator. Book a morning tour for the best chances of wildlife sightings! If you prefer to book upon arrival, we recommend Pahoehoe – you can find their office in town along the main street in Puerto Villamil. We have been told prices can fluctuate.
Snorkeling in Concha Perlas
Concha Perlas is a lagoon near the docks of Puerto Vilamil where you can do self-guided snorkeling and swimming, no guide necessary. After the hustle and bustle and crowd of booked tours, we wanted to do some DIY snorkeling at our own pace. Concha Perlas did not disappoint, with excellent snorkeling: perfect visibility, plenty to explore, and lots of wildlife!
We swam with several sea turtles, a GIANT manta ray (horrifyingly large, like 6 feet and jet black. I’ll be honest, I thought I was going to die), a swimming iguana, and a sea lion all in under 2 hours – and with no crowds of people to navigate around! This was by far our best self-guided day trip in the Galapagos Islands.
Concha Perlas is little lagoon to the side of the main dock in Isla Isabela, which is about 10 minutes walking from Puerto Villamil (it’s right next to where the ferry drops you off).
Look for a little boardwalk with a sign heading off into the mangroves just before the main docks – just past the stand selling fresh coconuts! Walk a short way down this boardwalk stepping over napping sea lions (one barked at us, don’t get too close) and you’ll end up at a little dock with a ladder leading into the water. Hang your clothes on the hangers provided to avoid a sea lion getting into it (or another tourist pushing it into the water by accident).
When you need a break, hop out of the water and get a fresh coconut or some food and drink on the beach nearby.
- Travel Tips: The water is a little cold so you do need a wetsuit. We rented short wetsuits and snorkel gear from Pahoehoe for $22. Aim for low tide as you can often see all the way to the bottom and the group of 7 to 9 spotted eagle rays (the highlight of your snorkel!) is much easier to spot.
The Wall of Tears Hike
El Muro de Las Lagrimas is one of Isla Isabela’s most famous hikes and a self-guided tour. It’s located within The Wetlands, a complex of trails featuring beautiful Bay views and home to a variety Galapagos wildlife like tortoises, flamingos, and zarapitos.
The name comes from the wall at the end of the hike. Before the Galapagos Islands was a destination for travelers all over the world and a nature conservatory, it was on its way to becoming a secretive prison colony – as one Ecuadorian native told us, it was meant to be what Guantanamo Bay became.
The Wall of Tears was built in the 1950s by 300 prisoners, toiling away under the hot sun to cut and haul heavy, sharp black volcanic rock in order to build their own prison. Or so they say – some say that there was no point to building the wall other than to exhaust and torment the prisoners.
Pushed to their limit, the prisoners – many of whom had perished during the backbreaking work – revolted and attacked their jailers. All that is left of their struggle is the wall.
You can visit the Wall of Tears on your own, or you can book a tour like this one that includes a visit to the Wall as well as other trails in the Wetlands.
If you choose to do a self-guided tour, you’ll first need to rent a bike in Puerto Villamil to get to the start of the hike ($10-15, including a lock). You could walk there, but it takes roughly 2 hours each way – or just 1 hour each way on a bike. Unfortunately, taxis are not an option.
The hike begins with steep steps and continues for 30-40 minutes, where you’ll find a beautiful lookout with a hut and benches to take a breather (and re-apply your sunscreen).
On the way back, stop at Playa del Amor and La Playita – they are perfect for quiet beach access, a snack and a rest.
Flamingo Lagoon and Tortoises
One of the most unique animals you can see in the Galapagos Islands are also one of the most colorful: flamingos! And where else to see them but at Flamingo Lagoon, aka Laguna Salinas.
Take an hour or two to head to the lagoon at the edge of town. The boardwalk starts just after a big hotel called Iguana Crossing (and yes, sometimes iguanas do cross there) and leads you to a lagoon with iguanas hanging on the boardwalk and railings, sea birds in the shallow water, and in the larger section of the lagoon, a few American Flamingos.
Continue along the path to get to the tortoise breeding center where you can see not-yet-giant tortoises throughout all their stages and sizes. You do need to walk around this part with a guide who will give you information about the animals, but they are introducing a $10 fee so bring a little cash.
Sierra Negra Volcano
No matter how many volcanoes you have climbed on your Latin American adventure, this one will amaze you simply by the size of its crater. Literally, at the end of the walk, you get to the lookout and all you see is the huge crater. It’s so big you can only see it entirely when the weather is clear!
And, a big plus, the hike is much easier than your average volcano ascent, because you don’t actually ascend. Lazy hikers, rejoice! (Just us??)
It’s another tour only possible with a guide and organized group ($35-45). You can book a tour online or in town (we recommend Pahoehoe). Bring good shoes, plan for muddy weather and strong sun, but you don’t have to worry about anything else, lunch is provided.
A bus will pick you up at around 7am and take you almost to the top of the volcano, and all you do is walk the 5 miles along the top and around the crater (and back). 10 miles seems like a lot, but the walk is mostly flat and manageable.
On the way back you’ll stop to walk through a lava cave and be home by 3pm and ready for a nap and sunset on the beach, because it is an early start and a long walk!
San Cristobal Island
Sadly, we did not make it to San Cristobal Island. We tried, but it’s difficult to do a day trip from Santa Cruz Island to San Cristobal Island for a tour without an overnight stay. We later found this day trip from Santa Cruz, which doesn’t include Kicker Rock but does get you back without needing to stay overnight!
However, we have heard that there isn’t as much to do on San Cristobal. Most of the locals we spoke to said that Isla Isabela and Santa Cruz Island were the best to visit. We can’t say how true this is, but we were bummed that we didn’t get a chance to check out the loberia beach, to see breeding sea lions, and do the Kicker Rock tour.
How to Get to San Cristobal Island
- You can fly into San Cristobal island and take a ferry to Santa Cruz or to other uninhabited islands.
- You can take a ferry from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal. It’s about 2 hours long and leaves twice a day. You can book it online here, or at the docks once you arrive in Santa Cruz.
- You can book a day trip from Santa Cruz, like this one.
Where to Stay in San Cristobal
The main town in San Cristobal is called Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, and that’s where almost all of the available accommodations are located.
- Boutique Hotel – Casa Opuntia: This stunning, small boutique hotel located right off the main stretch of town features ocean views, two beautiful outdoor pools (and a kid’s pool!), and a gorgeous onsite restaurant. It feels luxurious, but the prices aren’t.
- Budget Hotel – Casa de Jeimy: Located only 10-15 minutes walking from the airport, Casa de Jeimy is conveniently situated only a few blocks away from the waterfront. You’ll get private rooms, A/C, WiFi, and the works all for a fantastic rate. Enjoy the rooftop common area overlooking the harbor or the shared kitchen and hammocks.
- Budget Hotel – Hotel Mar Azul: You’ll get awesome value at budget-friendly Hotel Mar Azul. The hotel is located super close to the pier and the main stretch of shops and restaurants. Your room will be equipped with A/C and a mini fridge and breakfast is included. You can rent snorkeling gear from the front desk. No frills, but the rate is great!
Tips for Visiting San Cristobal Island
- Tours and ferries are operated separately. This means that you can’t schedule a tour from Santa Cruz Island on San Cristobal and return the same night – the ferry schedule doesn’t allow for it. You have to do an overnight on San Cristobal if you want to return to Santa Cruz, unless you book a day trip, like this one, which includes a return trip.
- If you’re coming from Santa Cruz and not booking online in advance, you can book your ferries & tour while still in Santa Cruz, with any agency or tour operator in town. Or, just go to the docks and find the kiosk (there is only one). They’ll be able to help you there.
- If San Cristobal is on your must-see list, we recommend trying to book a flight that lets you fly into Baltra and out of San Cristobal, or vise versa. Or, allow yourself a couple of days.
- Book tours and ferries a day or two in advance! You can book it online here or at the docks once you arrive in Santa Cruz. For the most comfortable ride and forward-facing seats, ask to book the Gaviota ferry.
- There are 3 ATM’s in San Cristobal, so no need to re-fill your cash supplies in Puerto Ayora.
Where to Eat & Drink in San Cristobal
- Stop by the Mockingbird Cafe for cheap meals AND the best coffee in the Galapagos! The owner of local coffee plantation Hacienda El Cafetal owns this coffee shop, which is serving up the most prized local coffee beans grown on the islands. The coffee plantation dates back to 1832, but you’d probably know it best as the source of the very first Starbucks Reserve beans in 2010.
- Grab a $6 almuerzo, aka set lunch, at Rosita for a cheap and filling meal – an Ecuadorian tradition.
- There is a little café right on Playa Mann to the left side where they serve almuerzos for $5 so you can eat your lunch (or just grab coffee or ice cream) and dip your feet in the sand and surrounded by sealions and head straight back to the water.
- If you’re on a budget for dinner, too, head to Lucky’s, a local favorite with meals under $4.
- The best thing to eat in the Galapagos is whole grilled fish cooked on a sizzling outdoor grill, and that’s what you’ll find at Bambu.
- Get some delicious fresh seafood at the quirky-looking El Descanso Marinero, two blocks back from the main strip – the décor is over the top and mismatched but the service is sweet and personal. It’s considered by many to be the best restaurant in town!
- Here is an excellent list of local places to eat in San Cristobal that aren’t on TripAdvisor!
Activities & Day Tours from San Cristobal
Although we didn’t get a chance to experience them ourselves, we heard plenty of good things about the activities available on San Cristobal! Here are the best things to do on San Cristobal. You can also find an excellent guide on San Cristobal here.
The Kicker Rock Tour from San Cristobal
Kicker Rock, also called Leon Dormido for its resemblance to a sleeping sea lion, is a unique rock formation consisting of two vertical slices of cliff face set in perfect parallel to one another in the open sea. It is home to a plethora of fantastic underwater life.
In addition to the usual Galapagos menagerie of rays, fish, turtles, and more, you’ll also get the chance to swim with sea lions and, circling far down below, hammerhead sharks!! Ahhh!
Once you’re on San Cristobal, Kicker Rock is an easy and inexpensive day trip as it’s just offshore – but it’s not doable as a day trip from Santa Cruz. This is the one tour we didn’t get to do, and REALLY wanted to. We heard from a fellow backpacker that Kicker Rock was the best snorkeling in the Galapagos!
Kicker Rock is also an amazing place to dive, if you’re certified. And if you’d rather not be in the same water as hammerhead sharks – completely understandable – you can book a lovely, relaxing boat tour instead.
How to Get to Kicker Rock
- You can book this tour online in advance or in person once you arrive.
- We recommend booking a snorkel trip with Wreck Bay (David at the office speaks English) if you are traveling with divers. This way you can snorkel, they can dive, but you spend the day together and the crew on board is sweet and take great care of you throughout the day (or just book because their lunches are yummy and very filling).
- Plan to stay overnight on San Cristobal – you can’t do this as a day trip from Santa Cruz!
La Loberia Beach
La Loberia is named for its claim to fame: it’s a Sea Lion breeding ground! When the tide is low, you can snorkel with adorable baby sea lions and their sea turtle friends like you’re a character in a Disney movie (just don’t touch them. Or feed them)! You also have a good chance to see blue-footed boobies and frigate birds here – and you’re guaranteed to get spit on by some huffy marine iguanas.
To get to La Loberia, Take a $3 camioneta (a white taxi found everywhere on the islands) 5 minutes, or rent a bike for a 15-minute ride. Or, walk for 40 minutes out of town. You can visit La Loberia without a guide, but look for a yellow or red flag that indicates that it’s unsafe to swim.
Stay for the sunset – the colors over the sea are absolutely incredible!
Watch the Sunset at Lover’s Beach
Cozy up with your honey (or like, a sea lion or whatever) at Punta Carola, also known as Lovers Beach. To get to Lover’s Beach, take the path through the Interpretation Center or walk to the end of the dirt road and locate a rocky path leading to the beach.
You can watch the sunset from the beach or continue on the path up Cerro Tijeretas (aka Frigate Bird Hill) to catch some absolutely stunning views of the sun setting over Kicker Rock from up high – while chillin’ with some Frigate Birds, of course. It’s a Galapagos Islands dream!
Visit the Interpretation Center
We know this doesn’t sound as exciting as diving with hammerhead sharks, but make sure you walk through the Interpretation Centre (conveniently located across the road from a beach and on the way to Las Tijeretas), even if it’s the only educational bit you do on the islands.
You can walk through at your own pace and will take you anywhere between 30 and 90 minutes but you get an insight into the Galapagos Islands, yes ALL of it: How they were formed, where the volcanoes are, the differences between the famous Darwin finches (fun fact, he didn’t study them, he studied the different mockingbirds, they just named the finches after him), the colonization and human history of the islands and even a look at tourism since its beginnings and how sustainable tourism is now.
Lagoon El Junco and Puerto Chino Beach
El Junco Lagoon is the only fresh water lake found at the Galapagos Islands, and Puerto Chino is the best beach on San Cristobal. You can combine a visit to both, plus a tortoise center, easily in one inexpensive DIY day trip!
Here’s how: get a taxi anywhere in town for around $65-75 for a 5-hour trip – rates and times are negotiable if you speak a little Spanish. This itinerary is common, and your taxi driver should know what you mean if you ask to visit El Junco and Puerto Chino – even if your Spanish is awful.
The first stop is El Junco lagoon, where you climb up steep steps for about ten minutes and if you’re lucky and it’s clear you will be rewarded with glistening water, views over the highlands, and frigate birds soaring over the water. You may also get to the top and see nothing but clouds and hear the birds through the thick white mist in front of you.
The next stop is a tortoise center where you can spot giant tortoises. Your driver will wait for you at the entrance and you can walk the loop without a guide.
Don’t forget your bathing suit (as always in Galapagos) because the next stop is Puerto Chino beach, on the east coast of the island. It’s only the most pristine beach on the island. Honestly, this is where you want your Instagram holiday picture to be taken to make everyone jealous: clear blue water with small white waves lapping onto the white sand with sea lions dotted along the beach for good measure. You’ll have about an hour there (the only downside is the time limit here, but you could stay longer if you skip one of the previous or final stops). You can also reach the beach easily from Puerto Moreno on a path, it’s a 15-minute walk.
Finally, the taxi will drop you at La Loberia and pick you up at whatever time you ask him to and you can finish your day at the beach, no time limits here!
What to Pack for the Galapagos Islands
We may have made a ton of packing mistakes on this trip, but we learned from all of them. We’ve got a full-length guide to packing for the Galapagos Islands, but here’s a shortlist of a few must-have recommendations.
- Reef Safe Sunscreen: Here’s the thing – the Galapagos are ON the equator, and the sun is STRONG. Skimping on sunscreen could mean the worst sunburn of your life! But regular sunscreen is incredibly harmful for marine life, and you’ll be swimming right through their home: regular sunscreen bleaches coral and ensures humanity’s swift death from climate change. So please, for the love of society’s inevitable collapse, wear reef-safe sunscreen if you’re going into the ocean. Note that although reef-safe sunscreen is always mineral, not all mineral sunscreens are reef-safe! Sunscreen must use “non-nano zinc oxide” particles to be reef safe (more details here). This is my favorite reef-safe sunscreen, and I use this lightweight sunscreen from Sephora on my face.
- Swimming Layers: I’m gonna be honest with you: reef-safe sunscreen is not the easiest to apply. It’s thick and doesn’t soak in easily. But like, I love animals and the environment. So my solution is actually to cover up my skin as much as possible so I don’t HAVE to wear sunscreen. Win/win! When swimming, especially in cold water (like the Galapagos) I like to wear a UV Swim Shirt and a pair of swim leggings. For more information about my beloved swim leggings (they’re ethical! They have pockets!!) head to my swim leggings review.
- Snorkel Mask & Fins: I so wish we’d brought our own snorkel gear. Not only would we have saved SO MUCH MONEY on rentals during our entire week in the Galapagos Islands, but we would’ve looked so legit rolling up to the ferry like “oh, we don’t need rental gear, we have our own.” Every time I met someone with their own gear on a tour I was like oh, you must be an expert – here, you go first. They probably got better pictures just because we were intimidated. Snorkels equal power.
- Water Shoes: For every minute that you’re not wearing flippers, you’ll want to be wearing water shoes. Whether you’re trying to walk over one of the insanely spiky black volcanic rocks – they’re pretty, but they hurt so much – or just wading into some water (surprise! more volcanic rocks) your un-cut feet will thank me later. I swear by my trusty leather Tevas, and Jeremy likes classic close-toed water shoes.
- Steri-Pen Water Purifier: The tap water in Ecuador is not safe to drink, so we purified everything with our Steri-Pen. It’s such a life saver! And we’re saving plastic water bottles from the landfill. (Note: you can also use a Sawyer mini filter or water purification tablets to purify undrinkable tap water, both of which we brought just in case, but we found that we preferred the Steri-Pen for ease of use and taste.)
- Dry Bag: Don’t set foot on a boat without putting your stuff in a dry bag, just in case. Like I’m not saying the boat is going to tip over, but you never know when a wave/rogue sea lion is going to splash your sh*t, and I’m not big on risk. This one is excellent and comes with a phone protector too, so your phone is extra safe (and usable while you’re in the water)!
- Travel Towel: Towels are not provided on the day tours you’ll be taking on your land-based Galapagos Islands trip, so you’ll want to bring your own lightweight, quick-dry towel.
- Dramamine: For said long boat rides. Trust me, you will need it. Alternatively, local pharmacies have Anautin, a cheap sea sickness tablet that really works.
- Travel Clothesline: We had this hanging up in every hotel room we stayed at in the Galapagos. Every day we hung up our wet towels and bathing suit to dry. It keeps your stuff from getting moldy and avoids the dreaded wet bathing suit rash *shudder*.
- GoPro: You didn’t come all the way to the Galapagos Islands to NOT get underwater footage of baby sea lions swimming with giant sea turtles, or Blue Footed Boobies stuffing each other’s faces down their throats, or whatever. You gotta have a GoPro!
- Coffee: While you might think that great coffee comes from Ecuador it can be tricky to find great coffee on the actual islands. So if you are a serious coffee snob we recommend packing your own stash. Slip a pack of Alpine Start instant coffee into your luggage to avoid any coffee anxiety, though they are starting to ban coffee coming into Galapagos to support the local production, so it may be taken from you if checked at the airport.
For more packing tips, check out our massive guide to what to pack for the Galapagos Islands!
Download the Galapagos Islands by Land Guide
Enter your email below and we’ll send you everything you need to know about visiting the Galapagos Islands by land in a convenient 15-page PDF. Download it and take it with you to use offline on your phone, tablet, or laptop!
We hope this guide was informative and helpful in showing just how much there is to see on the Galapagos Islands without a cruise! Backpacking the Galapagos Islands is a fantastic and budget-friendly adventure, and by far our favorite stop during our 4 months in South America.
For even more information about the how to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, check out these guides:
- Galapagos Islands Packing List
- Santa Cruz Galapagos Island Guide: What to Do, Where to Eat, & Where to Stay
You can read about our week in the Galapagos in detail in these 2 posts:
Planning a trip to Ecuador? There’s SO MUCH to see and do in this amazing country! Check out our other Ecuador resources:
- Backpacking Ecuador: Itinerary for 1 Incredible Month
- 30 Things No One Tells You About Backpacking in Ecuador
- 11 Mind-Blowing Things to Do in Baños, Ecuador (on a budget)
- Hiking the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador: Reverse Route Travel Guide
Please leave us a comment below if you have any questions about planning your trip to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise!
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Disclaimer: This post contains a sponsored link from Nature Galapagos as well as a few affiliate links to hotels, flights, and tours. Our trip to the Galapagos Island was NOT sponsored and we paid for everything 100% out of our own pockets.
Our Top Travel Tips & Resources
- Booking Flights: To score flight deals, search on Google Flights or Kayak. Money-saving tips: fly mid-week or on the weekend; fly carry-on only on a budget airline; and take red-eyes or early morning flights.
- Accommodations: We usually stay in budget-friendly vacation rentals, boutique hotels or private rooms in hostels. We use Booking.com to book hotels (we love their flexible cancellation policy) and Hostelworld to book hostels (low deposit, easy change/cancellation, and excellent reviews). For vacation rentals, we prefer to book using VRBO because they've got lower fees and better support than Airbnb, and we're not fans of Airbnb's unethical track record. You can also book vacation rentals on Expedia and Hotels.com. We also use TrustedHousesitters as both hosts (for our home and our fur-child) and travelers!
- Travel Insurance: We always, always, ALWAYS buy travel insurance for international trips, and we STRONGLY suggest it - visit our Travel Insurance Guide to find out why. We recommend either World Nomads or SafetyWing for international travel insurance. SafetyWing is one of the few policies that covers Covid-19, and they have excellent monthly policies that are perfect for Digital Nomads and long term travelers!
- Travel Credit Card: We book all of our trips on our favorite travel credit card. Not only do we earn cash back that we can spend on more travel, but the card offers fantastic travel perks like travel insurance, trip delay and cancellation coverage, lost baggage reimbursement, and rental car coverage, which helps protect us on our travels. Learn more here.
- Vaccines & Meds: We use the travel guides on the CDC website to research recommended medications and vaccines for international trips. We always recommend getting every vaccine recommended by the CDC! You can get them at your primary care doctor's office or a walk-in pharmacy.
- Tours: We love booking guided tours, especially food tours and walking tours, to get a local's perspective and a history lesson while sight-seeing! We book our tours using Viator and GetYourGuide.
- Transportation: We use Rome2Rio to figure out how to get from place to place, and book local transportation online using Bookaway wherever we can. When we book a rental car, we use DiscoverCars to compare rental companies and find the best deal.
- Luggage Storage: Whenever we're checking out early or taking advantage of a long layover, we use LuggageHero to safely store our luggage while we're running around. Use the code PRACTICALW for 2 hours of free luggage storage on us.
- VPN Service: A VPN keeps your digital information (like website login details, bank info, etc) safe, even when you're connected to an unsecured network while traveling. Plus, it lets you use Netflix & other streaming sites abroad! We use NordVPN. Use the code WANDERLUSTPROMO when you sign up!
- What to Pack: Here are the travel essentials that we bring on every trip. We also have packing lists for hot weather, cold weather, and many more. Take a look at all of our packing guides!
Emily says
Otherwise very informative post that is going to be very useful so thank you! Just think this reads slightly wrong in the section about Tortuga Bay.
Emily says
Dissappointing to see advice which suggests to litter the Galapagos Islands with toilet paper. I think an edit is necessary stating that no paper litter should be left behind!
Lia Garcia says
Thank you so much for your callout, Emily! I think it slipped my mind because it felt obvious to me, but you’re absolutely right that not everyone would think to do that. I’ve made that edit and I appreciate your help improving our content!
Garrett says
This is fantastic – thank you for the time and effort put into this guide!
Dayna Rosen says
Hi there – I think you have a ton of very useful information and used some tips on my Galapagos trip. However, I did want to let you know that I’m pretty certain I got food poisoning from lunch at the kiosks on Santa Cruz. When I spoke to some local guides, they said they always tell tourist not to eat there because they aren’t as careful and about half of them get sick. Luckily I didn’t miss too much of this beautiful trip but I did want to make you aware so you can make note for other travelers. Thanks much!
Lia Garcia says
OMG I’m so sorry to hear that!! Thats wild … we ate at the kiosks like every night and it was some of the best food we had in Ecuador, and it never made us sick! I’ll look into this more and put a warning for other travelers. Thank you so much for letting us know!!
daniel nyman says
Amazing stuff! Really the best I’ve read about galapagos for what I need. Thank you!
Basti says
Great Blog. Great job! Thanks for all the information!!
I have a question though: You said that you were looking for accommodation right after your arrival on Santa Cruz. That means you did not have all accommodation booked. Officially the rules for the “Transit Control Card” imply, that you have to show your return flight tickets as well as all your booked accommodation BEFORE going to Galapagos. Does that mean you did not have to show that? Is this rule only “on paper”?
Best regards
Basti
Lia Garcia says
Hey Basti, great question! This rule either didn’t exist or wasn’t being enforced during our trip back in 2016, but rules have since tightened up quite a bit (we recently updated this post to reflect the current guidelines). But honestly, we really don’t recommend showing up and booking hotels once you arrive – it was incredibly stressful, we missed out on a lot of really good places to stay, and it didn’t save us any money at all. Tours you can totally book upon arrival if you don’t mind taking a gamble, but book your hotel in advance.
Laura says
Just wanted to post a warning to all travellers flying into the Galapagos as many are getting stung with $150 USD fee for not purchasing the XL flight package with Avianca and despite what they tell you at the airport, if your return ticket is separate, you will be charged again on the way back. Any smalller package flight ticket is for Ecuadoreans only and we were told this was an additional tax that the government is charging foreigners (not to do with the airline). Myself and half the people I met travelling here were stung with this cost, so I’m hoping to save more people from it.
Lia Garcia says
Thanks for the heads up, Laura!
Mary Asselin says
As always, love your blog and filled with great info.
My husband and I Lived on San Cristobal in town for 2 months (your MAX stay on the Galapagos) in Dec-Jan 2019-2020, so got to know the town and area very well. We plan to go back. While the tourist things to do there are inferior to the other islands (Isabela the best, Santa Rosa is also filled with great stuff), my hubby went for the surfing. I hiked and birded. What’s special about this island are its people. It was like being transported back into the 1950s where children play at the numerous playgrounds around town, there’s a relaxed atmosphere, friendly shopkeepers, a general welcoming vibe. We loved our time there. Sea lions rule the town. One parked himself in front of one ATM and stalled transactions for hours……I hiked the 40 mins to Loberia beach several times. There is a trail that extends from the beach towards a cliff (volcanic rock) that you climb to the top of and where boobies and red-billed tropic birds hang out and you will often be alone with nature. Watch your step for iguanas on the trail. There are other trails past the Interpretive Center that have overlooks and go for miles after. The bay off the Interpretive Center trail is a favorite place to snorkel, but you must watch the wave action and use care to enter and exit. Food-wise – we loved the Italian restaurant in town. There was also a Creperie – with excellent choices. We were there over Christmas and New Year’s and the celebrations were unique. What was interesting too was seeing the hillsides go from grey/brown in Dec to the greenest green in January and the various lichen that grow on the trees. Access around town were by locals driving pick up trucks which you could hop a ride anytime one drove by for, I think, a buck. Yes, it was hot. Wear protective gear to protect your skin in and out of water. Beware of the sea lions. They may be “sleeping” but arouse easily if you get too close. Babies tho are curious about you and may swim close around you or scoot up to you laying on the beach to check you out. Whatsapp is used throughout Ecuador. Internet was spotty even in the best of locations. Ferries (really, they are big boats) were easy to get tickets for a day or two before travel. Book excursions once your are there because online or beforehand you pay way more. Ditto accommodations. Once we got there, it was easy to negotiate a far cheaper rate for a longer stay.
Shelly says
Super informative and well put together guide.
Carl Rivers says
What a interesting and concise blog you have here, really helped me out. I too am going to visit the galapagos islands this summer but I don’t really want to go on a cruise. The idea is to basically go island hopping and stay on the main islands and do day tours. I have read that there is a small airline company called Emetebe Airlines that flies air hoppers on each island: San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela – aprox 30 minute flights. Eager to check this out as we don’t have much time off this summer and want to discover galapagos from a different perspective (maybe check out some volcanos from above???)
What would you recommend? Not really a fan of the boats as I get seasick. Any day tours I should hit and check out?
Emetebe Airlines website: http://www.emetebe.com.ec – let me know your comments and opinions please.
Ok take care and can’t wait to go to these amazing islands.
Carl
Lia Garcia says
It looks legit, though there is a weight limit of 25lbs for most of their flights (or you can pay extra for 35lbs). If you can pack super light then it’s worth a try to avoid the boats! Heads up though, most tours on the islands will involve a boat ride at some point, so if you really want to avoid boats you’ll want to stick to land-based tours only, like hikes or snorkeling in destinations that are on-island such as Las Grietas on Santa Cruz or Concha de Perla on Isla Isabela. From one seasick prone traveler to another, Dramamine non-drowsy is a lifesaver 😉
Carl Contractor says
Well done! This is an insightful article. Thanks so much for sharing. Will continue following your posts.
Selena Burfield says
This is one of the most in depth and engaging posts about the Galapagos Islands that I have read! You have got some fab photos too, it’s such a shame you weren’t able to go to San Cristobol, but all the more reason to go back one day, right? Thanks again for a great read.
Nick says
Same commentor as above:
One huge thing I forgot to mention that I didn’t see mentioned in this guide (though may be mentioned in the more detailed guide and others may have commented this) for Isla Isabella; there are no ATMs on the island at all (that I could find or was informed by locals). I was lucky that I had just enough to book Los Tunneles and had enough for accoms and my boat to San Cristobal, but had to live on oat for a day as I had no other cash at all! Be prepared!
Nick
Lia Garcia says
Yesss this is so important! Thank you for pointing out that we didn’t include it in this post – it is in our detailed Isla Isabela post but we should def add it here too.
Nick says
I know this article is old and not read the other comments but did read your full guide. Gutted for you that you didnt get to go to San Cristobal as it was actually my favourite island of the 3 you mention here.
Despite the kicker rock tour being notorious for seeing huge schools of hammerheads (we did a certified dive), we unfortunately didnt see any (so I have to go back! :P) but the people on that island were so chilled and there is a lot to see for those on a shoestring budget so would still highly recommend. I’d actually say there’s more to see here than on Isabela.
All the best for anyone going there, it’s incredible and so glad I went.
Nick
richard berry says
Question: we are going to try to do a 4 day trip to galapagos along with a trip through equador. I hate to be fencened in, don’t you? So wife and I are 73, 63, won’t be diving, looking for wildlife. What would you do if you only had 4 days??
Lia Garcia says
I think I’d prioritize Isla Isabela, as it had the best wildlife and several of our favorite snorkelling tours! Try to head there ASAP once you arrive.
Ivan Preston says
Loved reading this post and some essential tips included. Going next month to the Galapagos and after reading this, I am looking forward to it even more.
Neha says
Hi. Great post. We are planning a 10 day land based tour. Can you recommend good tour operators who provide daily excursions in San Cristobal & Isabela. Particularly looking for someone reliable to do snorkelling with (as we are comfortable but not very well experienced swimmers).
Kathy says
Thanks for your reply, Lia. I’m going with your recommendation to go in January.
If money wasn’t a concern, would you book a boat tour where everything is organized for you, or do it on your own?
Best Regards,
Kathy
Alicia Kraus says
Thanks a lot, Lia. Really an informative guide for a new visitor like me. I was planning to make a trip soon.
Hayley says
Hi Lia my family and I really want to go to Rabida and Bartolome Island. Do you know how we would get there from Puerto Ayora? Thanks,
Hayley
Lia Garcia says
You’d have to take a tour as those aren’t inhabited islands and you’ll need a guide to accompany you.
Kathy says
Hi Lia,
I just loved your travel guide. It is very informative. I have a question for you. I am going to doing the land itineraries that you mentioned. My question is I am contemplating on whether to go in July 2019 or go in January 2020. I love snorkeling so I will be in the water a lot. Would you please offer your thoughts?
I know the water is cold in July and choppy. I get motion sickness and don’t know how I would do on a 2 hour ferry ride. I like the air temp being cooler.
In January, the water will be warm and smooth. But it will be hot air wise. Please advise and help me with this predicament.
I appreciate any insight.
Best Regards,
Kathy
Lia Garcia says
I would recommend going in January. It won’t be *that* hot and the water will be more pleasant. It will be a little more crowded, though! Hope that helps.
Dawn Summers says
I would love the PDF FGuide! We are leaving on Friday January 11,2019. I hope to get it before then… I just found your amazing information or I would have requested sooner!!
Lia Garcia says
Hey Dawn, to get the PDF guide just sign up in the box with the big, bright button! It’ll get sent straight to your inbox.
nicole bellman says
can you please send me your itinerary you mentioned above please? thanks for all of your hard work putting this together.
Nicole
Lia Garcia says
Hey Nicole, to get the PDF guide you’ll need to subscribe in the box included in the post! Look for the big button 🙂
Michael Cosgrove says
Great blog! What a great source of info. Love to have the pdf version. I am interested in the Galapagos.
Lia Garcia says
Hey Michael, to get the PDF you’ll need to sign up in the box – look for the big, bright button 🙂
K says
Thanks great guide. Can you please send me your pdf version.
Best,
K
Lia Garcia says
Hey K, look for the box with the big button. You’ll need to sign up and open the email that we’ll send you once you sign up for to get our PDF guide!
deborah says
This is fantastic, thank you. We are budget travellers too but didn’t think we could do the Galapagos on our own luckily i was wrong.
James Fisher says
Hey Lia great article!
We have 7 nights to spend on the Galapagos.
How many nights would you stay on Isabela, and how many on Santa Cruz?
Thanks!
Jim
p.s. my gut feeling is 4 nights on Isabela and 3 on Santa Cruz…:-)
Lia Garcia says
If you dig that rustic, quiet island vibe, definitely spend some more time on Isla Isabela. If you prefer a few more amenities (better WiFi, better food, a bit of nightlife) then Santa Cruz is more up your alley and I’d spend more time there. I hope that’s helpful!
Sophie says
Hello,
I am looking to go to the Galapagos for 9 days in May and I was just wondering how easy it is to actually get between islands. I can’t see much about booking ferries online so I imagine it’s a ‘by the dock’ kind of thing. We have found a few land tours which seem to be expensive but everything is taken care of in terms of travel and hotels. How did you book the hotels when you went, was it online or when you arrived?
Also, how busy were the tours you went on in August?
Thanks 🙂
Lia Garcia says
It’s very easy to book ferries, you can just book them in person at the docks as mentioned in our post! Just be sure to buy your tickets a few days early. We didn’t book anything in advance, but if we did it again, we would have booked our hotels in advance – it was stressful trying to find a decent place to stay. That’s why we’ve included recommendations for places you can book online in this post as well as our downloadable guide. The pre-arranged land tours are great for ease of mind – they save you the hassle of figuring out your logistics and you can book them in advance so you just show up. But you’ll definitely pay more doing it that way!
The tours we went on were all full, but they’re all capped at a reasonable amount – the ferries are pretty small and they also need to be sure there are enough guides to handle the groups, plus certain places have volume restrictions, etc. It’s all pretty tightly regulated – like, a company won’t let you on a tour that’s already full just to make an extra buck. The largest one we went on was about 16-20 people, which felt a little crowded, but most of them were around 10-15.
Nina says
Great and very helpful post – and so entertaining.
Thank you very much. I feel prepared for our trip in Jan 🙂
Marc Patry says
Very well done and comprehensive. Indeed, if “travelling on a budget” is the most important criterion in how you visit Galapagos, a land based trip is the way to go. However, if “I really want to experience as much of what these islands are famous for as possible”, then an expedition cruise is a superior way to do it. I lived in the islands for 4 years and nothing compared to getting out to the far reaches of the archipelago, watching the sun rise over calm waters as a pod of dolphins lazily swims by, or watching the sunset, moored offshore from one of the youngest volcanoes on the planet. My recommendation to those who feel torn: “Wait”. Wait until you’re in a position to go on a ship based visit. I get the impression that so many people want to do everything as early as possible in life… as a result, they have to do it at a time when funds are limited and end up missing out on some of the best opportunities. Full disclosure: I run a Galapagos travel agency specializing mostly on cruises, but do also help with land based arrangements. ALSO: If you can make your budget stretch, here is a good last minute cruise website: http://www.galapagoscruiselinks.com that puts you in touch with ship owners directly – just in case…
Lia Garcia says
Very helpful, thank you for that insight!
Andre Robles says
Definitely agree with Marc on this one, the cruise option is by far the best way to see the islands. The fact that you wake up every day at a different island, you reach the more remote areas and you have twice the amount of excursions each day is truly the way to go.
For some being too long on a boat may be an issue, there are ways to be creative here, you can take a shorter 4 day cruise and compliment it with a hotel stay on 1 of the Islands. What you definitely do not want to do is engage in hopping to another port island every 2 nights, switching hotels, packing and unpacking…. not my idea of a Galapagos trip. If you are not cruising, best to stay on 1 island and run through all the day trips possible before moving on to the next. Just my 2 cents of thought.
Guilherme says
Great post! Thank you!
I am planning a solo travel and it was very helpfull!
Only 1 question, while you were snorkeling by yourselves (like Las Grietas), where did you leave your stuff (backpack, etc)?
Thank you again!
Lia Garcia says
We just left it on the ground sort of covered with stuff so it would be inconvenient to rifle through 😛 Honestly we weren’t too worried about theft during our trip, the Galapagos felt very safe!
Paul says
Amazing and Practical article.
Which month did you go? You mentioned a few times water was chilly.
I plan to go in January. Google shows water temperature of 75 degrees average in Jan 🙂
Did you encounter situations when tours were fully booked?
I am trying to estimate the need of advance booking. Would be nice to book in place…
Lia Garcia says
We visited in August. Certain times of the year have colder water (like when we went) and in January the water is nice and warm, which is why it’s high season then! We did experience a few instances when tours were fully booked, so I would definitely advise booking in advance if you can swing the extra cost.
Michelle says
Thank for the great post! Do you think 9 days would be enough time to visit Cristobal, Isabela, and Santa Cruz? If so, how many days would you allocate for each? Planning a trip for March and I’m so excited!
Lia Garcia says
9 days is cutting it a little close … we had 8 days and weren’t able to fit in Cristobal because we purchased round trip flights from Baltra airport. If you want to hit up all 3, I highly recommend booking one flight into Baltra and the other out of San Cristobal. Then you can spend 2-3 days at each spot and have a lot more flexibility.
Czickontheroad says
This is amazing article, but I’m kind of sad how expensive it is 🙁 This is for us spending same amount of money for one week, as we otherwise do in one month traveling in South America…. Definitely not a budget destination.
Lia Garcia says
No, it’s definitely not – we spent less in a whole month traveling in Colombia versus our 8 days in the Galapagos. But it’s one of those places that is worth paying for if you’re able to afford it, and doing it without a cruise is the cheapest way to do it!
WhirlwindTravellers says
Amazing post! This helped us make our trip to the Galápagos ten times better, and gave us the confidence to go without a cruise. In our opinion going without a cruise is a way better option.
Thanks again!
Lia Garcia says
How sweet of you to say! So glad you find our post helpful!
jackie says
First of all, THANK YOU! love your site, appreciate all the wonderful details that make it so useful for planning our trips and enjoy your great sense of humor in your writing. I’m so lucky to have come upon your blog!
I do have a question I hope you can help with. You recommended doing the lava tunnels, tortoise sanctuary and los gemelos all on the same day/trip. How much time do you think we should allow for this? we’ll be doing some dive trips in the morning, getting back around 2P. could we do this in a few hours in the late afternoon? Or is it more of an all day thing? There’s so much I want to see and do and not enough time.
And I have some suggestions. Please go travel to Croatia, Vietnam/laos, and south Africa asap. Those are the next trips I’m planning and could sure use your insider tips.
Thanks again for your very useful and enjoyable blog!
Lia Garcia says
Hey Jackie, that’s an organized tour so it will depend entirely on your tour operator and if they offer tours in the afternoon. That said, there’s not much flexibility with the tours as they have to work around other tour operators, cruise boats, and most importantly of all, tides. I don’t think that 2pm would allow enough time for that tour, but a local tour operator would be able to give you better information!
Erwin says
THANK YOU for such detailed and fun post – I have been debating between taking a cruise or do it by land and you just gave me the answer ( i will save my money for other trip ) – I am planning to go to Galapagos in December for 7 days – Based on your first experience and if you have to do it again ( assuming it would be your first time ) : would you follow the same itinerary ? what itinerary would recommend ? – Thank you once again. Erwin
Lia Garcia says
Hey Erwin, happy you found our post helpful! I think one change I would make would be to fly into Baltra to explore Santa Cruz, but out of San Cristobal. The way we did it we didn’t get a chance to see San Cristobal at all and we had about 8 days total. The only way we could have seen it is if we’d had our flights set up like that. Otherwise, I was happy with our itinerary!
Daina says
This post is so helpful! I am in the middle of planning a trip to the Galapagos and trying to decide if we should do a cruise or land-based trip. I think this is definitely going to help me out! Thanks!
Marissa says
How much money do you recommend bringing if I’m traveling on a budget? Are there ATMs and do they accept cards there? Thanks.
Lia Garcia says
There is an ATM in the grocery store in Puerto Ayora, none on Isla Isabela and a few on San Cristobal. So you don’t need to take cash to cover your WHOLE trip, just the days that you’ll be away from the ATM. Few places accept cards, and those that do will charge the card fee that you’ll found throughout Ecuador, so it’s much cheaper to use cash.
Marissa says
This is super helpful and convinced me to go to the Galapagos. How much would you say a roundtrip flight in Ecuador to the Galapagos typically runs (not using points)? Thanks.
Lia Garcia says
Wow, how awesome! I’m so thrilled that we inspired your trip 🙂 Not using points, you’re probably looking at around $200 to get from mainland Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil) to the Galapagos (Baltra or San Cristobal), depending on time of year. They likely won’t be more than $500 or so even during peak season. But also remember that you’ll need to pay the entrance fee to get into the park ($100 or so).
Miriam says
Thank you for all the GREAT information. I am looking at planning a trip and like many others was deterred by the high cost of a cruise. Appreciate all the tips to make this trip my own! I was wondering how bumpy is the ferry ride between the islands? I don’t do well in boats so that is why I thought a cruise would be better…. Any tips or suggestions?
Much appreciate it!
Lia Garcia says
Most of the ferries are pretty small boats going pretty quickly, so they are fairly bumpy. But with dramamine I was honestly just fine – and I’m the kind of person who gets sick just from sitting in the backseat of a car! I’d rather have a couple hour choppy boat ride with some dramamine than round-the-clock gentle swaying, personally, but it’s totally up to you!
Kristina says
Hi Lia, this guide is like a bible for my trip. I’m waiting to board my flight to Galapagos right now. I just wanted to add that you can actually also fly with TAME airlines in addition to Avianca and LATAM. That’s what I’m doing 🙂 Thanks for all the useful and detailed advice as always! Not sure how I’d travel South America without thia resource.
Lia Garcia says
So happy to help, Kristina! We’ve heard mixed things about TAME – they don’t have great reviews online – but we’d love to hear how your experience is with them!
Carlyn says
Amazing! Thank you so much for your post! The information is SOO helpful! Just curious, do you have a recommendation for a tour company in Santa Cruz. I will be traveling with my three boys (12, 11 & 8) in June and I would like to book things when I am there based on how they feel. Do you think I need to reserve in advance for travel in June? Also, do you think it is safe to walk to Grietas and Tortuga Bay alone with my kids? Just not sure about safety, etc. Thanks so much!
Lia Garcia says
It’s definitely safe to walk to Las Grietas and Tortuga Bay alone with your kids – just bring plenty of water and apply lots of sunscreen! As for reserving in advance, since there are 4 of you it might be a good idea to reserve in advance since I’m not sure how quickly tours fill up. We reserved all of our tours when we arrived on the islands during our trip in August and had no problems, but there were only 2 of us. As for tour companies in Santa Cruz, it doesn’t much matter which one you book with because all of the tour companies are booking pretty much the exact same boats and tours, and they are all regulated to ensure that the tour guides are up to standard.
Claire says
Thanks for the detailed post, it came in handy when planning our trip. We went to San Cristobal (and loved it!) but I’m still regretting missing Isabela!
Lia Garcia says
Ahhh Isabela is beautiful! But we missed out on San Cristobal so I know what you mean about regret 😛 I guess we both have to go back!
Andy says
I’m glad I stumbled on this page. Thanks for the information you guys provided. It’ detailed and fun. I can surely say that there’s no better travel blog than yours. Thanks once again.
One quick question. I get to (have to) work remotely. So may I know if internet connection is decent enough to join and take conference calls. Anything above 3 Mbps should be good for me
Lia Garcia says
You’re so sweet, thank you Andy! I was able to do some remote work during our time in the Galapagos – I think it really depends on the hotel, honestly, the pricier the hotel the better the connection is likely to be. I’ll say that the internet was MUCH better in Puerto Ayora than on Isla Isabela. So perhaps schedule your calls for when you’re on the bigger islands (Santa Cruz and San Cristobal) and plan to disconnect for a bit while you’re in Isla Isabela!
Natisha says
When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get three emails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove people from that service? Thanks a lot!
Lia Garcia says
I looked through Wordpress and couldn’t figure it out 🙁 It doesn’t look like I have any access to see who’s subscribed to my comments or to remove them. Perhaps there’s an unsubscribe box somewhere in the emails that you’re being sent? I’m so sorry, what a nuisance!
Darren says
Hi, this was a excellent read and plenty to think about. I have 2 question though, do you have to be able to swin to do snorkelling and how much are the tours each. Ps we are thinking of going in may
Lia Garcia says
Yes, you should definitely be able to swim to snorkel. The tours range from around $50 to around $100 each, depending on the operator and whether you book online in advance or in person once you arrive!
McKenzie Johnson says
Thank you so much for publishing this fantastic guide! My husband and I are visiting the Galapagos in a few weeks and we also aren’t doing a cruise. I had one question – do you think it’s feasible to do a day trip to Isabella from Santa Cruz without spending the night? I know we wouldn’t be able to do an organized tour once there, but I would love to be able to visit!
Lia Garcia says
Hmm, it depends entirely on the timing of the ferries. I’m not sure whether they go multiple times per day, or whether the same one arrives, lets everyone off, and then immediately heads back – or if there’s a break in between, perhaps, or a few departure times spaced throughout the day. I’d wager it’s possible, but just to be safe, I’d ask at the docks in Puerto Ayora as soon you arrive so you have some time to plan.
Tami says
Hi!
I really appreciate your guide to the Galapagos. I am planing a land-based trip around the Galapagos myself at the moment. We have 7 full days on Galapagos, but I really can’t decide whether or not we should include San Cristóbal. Could you give me some thoughts on that issue? Do you think it would be worth it, or should be better spend a little more time on tours based from Ayora or Isabela island?
Lia Garcia says
That’s hard for us to answer since we didn’t make it to San Cristobal ourselves! Speaking for ourselves, I’d say to focus on Santa Cruz & Isla Isabela – when we asked the locals we met, they all seemed to agree that San Cristobal wasn’t as good to visit. The main draw is the sea lion nesting grounds and the Kicker Rock trip, which is best if you’re a diver or really want to see a lot of hammerheads below you. We probably could have taken a day from Santa Cruz (like the day we went to Tortuga Bay, for example) and done an overnight to San Cristobal, but it might have felt pretty packed. So I’m gonna say skip San Cristobal and focus on Santa Cruz & Isla Isabela, but take my advice with a grain of salt since I don’t know what you’ll be missing out on since I haven’t been myself 😛
Tami says
Thanks Lia for confirming my thoughts 🙂 Now, I know what we’re going to do, and it feels like the right choice.
Jen says
Hello, thank you for this amazing writeup on the Galapagos, it’s so helpful! I am looking into booking day trips on Isabela with Pahoehoe and was curious if you recommend booking in advance online? We really want to do the lava tunnels tour with them but it says online it’s $145 to book in advance? Were you able to just pay $90 because you waited to book once you actually were there? Thanks!
Lia Garcia says
Hi Jen! So, they absolutely may have upped their prices since we visited in 2016, but we did not book in advance. We basically showed up to Isla Isabela and made reservations through our hostel, who called for us (or you can just stop by their office right on the main road). We booked a tour day-of and next-day that way. But it was a bit stressful because our hostel had to beg for them to squeeze us in and basically call in a favor – we kinda got lucky. If you have some flexibility, I’d say try to save a buck and book in person, but if it’s more important to you to know for sure that you’ll be able to do the tour, it’s definitely safest to book in advance and reserve your spot. That is especially true during the high tourism seasons (we visited in August, when most families are starting school and the islands are not very crowded).
marcy says
Your write-up was very helpful for the trip our family took to the Galapagos a few weeks ago (Thanksgiving break). We booked the Los Tunneles tour through our hostel ahead of time. We paid $120 per person + $10 each for wet suits. The tour operator was not Pahoehoe but I can’t remember their name. They were on the main street, about a block past the main square. We stayed at Tero Real and they booked the trip ahead of time for us. We paid the tour company in cash when we got there. It was an amazing tour!
Lia Garcia says
Hi Marcy, thanks so much for this helpful information! We rely on information like this to keep our posts up to date so we can continue to provide the best possible information to our readers. It sounds like the prices may have raised somewhat since we visited, so we’ll update our post. Thanks again!
Marcy says
Pahoehoe quoted me $145 per person ahead of time. They said I may be able to get a better “last minute deal.” However, with a family of five we didn’t want to risk there not being space for all of us. Thanks again for your great trip report!
Mark says
We’re planning a family trip to the Galapagos next year, and I’ve relied heavily on this guide. Thank you so much for putting it together! One question I have is regarding drinking water. All of the places we’ve booked will have purified drinking water available on-site. Does the purified tap water taste ok though? I’ve read that it just makes it safe to drink, but that it still tastes bad. With kids in tow, we may opt to bring a charcoal filter as well.
Also, greetings from Kentucky! We’ve been living in Lexington for 6 years now.
Lia Garcia says
I don’t recall it tasting bad, but we mostly purified our own water. Our hotel offered purified drinking water, but it was just a pitcher that we had to request to have refilled, and we consume a lot more water than we have patience! It’s really nice to have the means to purify your own if you need more than what’s available. There is also a grocery store in Puerto Ayora where you can pick up bottled water, but it’s quite costly.
And YAY Kentucky!! I’m ashamed to say I haven’t really explored Lexington. It’s high up on my list to do next time I visit my old Kentucky home! I’ve heard nothing but good things lately.
Laura says
Sooo helpful! And hilarious 🙂 Thanks!
Hilary says
Thanks for sharing your experience! Really helping with my planning. When you did DIY activities like snorkelling, where did you leave your belongings? Especially those that aren’t waterproof. I was thinking of bringing along a backpack to more secluded areas so leaving my stuff in my accommodation may not be a feasible option.
Thank you
Lia Garcia says
We just left our bags nearby on dry land. There wasn’t any issue, we never felt nervous or unsafe. There aren’t a lot of tourists and not many locals, either – the crowds are all from the cruises. I wouldn’t bring like, your wallet and leave it there, but everything else is fine to leave on the beach or on land within eye range!
John says
Hi Lia,
Your land-based visit of the Galapagos is excellent. Very well done. We have just returned from 10 days in Ecuador and five of those on a fantastic cruise. We waited and got our cruise package at half off plus they included round trip airfare from Quito to Galapagos and ground transportation. We were on a relatively brand new 16 passenger catamaran. Our Naturalist and crew were fantastic. We had 4 shore excursions every day including snorkeling. We snorkeled with sea lions and turtles all around us. This was a 4-star trip and certainly not for the budget conscious.
For those on a budget that would like to do a cruise go to Community Hostel in Quito. ( If you do the free walking tour of Quito this is where you meet up) They have a board that lists last minute deals for boats that cruise the Galapagos. A real bargain. Folks will have to check out the reviews for the particular boat they may want to go on.
One thing we would like to suggest is to list what the airfare is for the Galapagos. Rather than mentioning your luck of using points/miles. Currently, the airfare is running around $425 Rt from Quito plus $20 mandatory Galapagos Tourist card. So adding that to your per person cost it would be $1245. for your 9 days. $800 sounds good but you left out a big chunk!
Cheers,
John and Susan
Boquete, Panama
Lia Garcia says
Fantastic tips!! Thanks so much! We definitely recommend getting the LAN or Avianca credit cards to stock up on points if you have time before your trip (which is what we did) but yes, paying out of pocket will take a big chunk out of your budget. Thanks so much for the info!
Ashley says
Great Post! Thanks so much for the info. I was wondering if you had a file that can be downloaded of this guide? Thanks again.
Lia says
That’s an awesome suggestion, Ashley! It took me a few days, but I whipped one up. I’ll send you a copy 🙂
Paula Olymbios says
Hello Liz,
Thanks for such a comprehensive blog. We are thinking of going next year in August. My questions are how cold was the sea water – the tempertuare if you it. Secondly how difficult was the crossing in the ferries between islands.
Thanks Paula
Lia says
Hi Paula! Great questions. The water is a bit cold, as it’s the Pacific ocean. That said, it’s certainly warmer than the water in California 😛 you’ll be fine with a short-sleeved wet suit for most of the tours, which are typically provided (or you can rent one from a zillion different places in town). I’m a big wuss and after a few minutes of swimming in a short wet suit I was fine.
The ferry crossings are not bad if you take dramamine! I get nauseous just thinking about swaying from side to side, and a dramamine kept me feeling totally fine. The actual ferries are very easy to locate and simple to purchase a ticket for, too, so the whole process is relatively painless. It’s around 2 hours on the boat from Santa Cruz to Isabela and back again.
Anna says
So glad i found this site, full of useful information!! Thank you!
What month did you travel? I am travelling with small children and i am worried about the ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela being not calm, did you find this to be the case?
Thanks
Lia says
We visited the Galapagos in late August. The ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela is definitely not calm – the waters are quite choppy! If your little ones are able to take an anti-nausea medication like Dramamine, that’s a big help. It also helps to sit outside so you can watch the waves as you bounce over them, but it is colder, so take a jacket and some sun protection as well!
Gabrielle says
Oh how happy I am to have found this! What a thorough and encouraging article on traveling the Galapagos without a cruise! I’m so very excited! Thank you so much for sharing this information
Carine says
Thanks for the amazingly detailed post, you have just given me and my boyfriend our next destination! I wanted to know about your 800$ cost for the trip. Is it including everything from tours, hotels, food and taxis and such?
Lia says
Yes, $800 (EACH, So $1600 total) includes everything for 8 days: entrance fees, tours, hotels, food, and transportation, from Quito to the Galapagos and back. It even includes flights – but our flights were insanely cheap because we booked using LATAM points we earned from a rewards credit card, which isn’t doable for everyone. And of course you’ll need to get yourself to Quito. But that’s a good number to go off of for your trip on the actual islands once you arrive!
Bobbie/Barbara says
Hi Lia – question: when you post taxi fare is that per person or per car? As there are 4 of us I just need to be sure. Thanks so much for your help!!!! Bobbie
Lia says
That’s per car! So the more people there are, the cheaper it ends up being. We usually find travelers to split cars with for that exact reason.
Srini says
Lia & Jerry
Thanks a lot for a well written & detailed guide to Galapagos!! we are planning to go there in early Nov and we didn’t want to do the standard Cruise tours and I was looking for info on how to go by ourselves. I am glad I got to your blog 🙂 Super!! After reading your blog, I am convinced that we can go on our own. Thanks a lot.. 🙂 Srini
Lia says
We’re so happy to help, Srini! I’m glad you found our blog too 🙂
Yen says
Hello, thanks for a great detailed report. We are going next month with our 11-month old baby. What do you think about having the baby in the speedboat from Santa Cruz to Isabella? And on day tours?
Lia says
I think the baby will be fine in the speedboat – it’s choppy and bouncy, but hopefully in a sort of lulling, relaxing way? – but I’m not sure about day tours. You’re in the water for pretty much all of your day tours and there’s not always a boat nearby. I’d be sure to ask the tour operator when you book about whether it’s OK for the baby to stay in the boat while you’re in the water!
Taylor says
Would you recommend specific footwear? I am traveling in South America for the year and only brought crappy flip flops and sneakers. I would wear my sneakers in the water but if they get wet I’m not sure they will dry. Do you think it is worth getting some tevas? I’m also concerned about breaking in new sandals during my trip. Do the places with wetsuits also have water shoes for rent?
Lia says
Flip flops are definitely not good for the water because of their tendency to float away. I highly recommend getting a pair of Tevas – they’re leather, so no breaking in necessary, they’re cute, and the strap keeps them on tight. I’ve worn them swimming, snorkeling, white water rafting, and even hiking, and they are up for the challenge! This is the pair that I wear (I’m on my 3rd pair!): http://amzn.to/2sHpfuh
Some places definitely rent water shoes, but if you’re snorkeling, you may not need them because you’ll have on flippers.
Kellie says
This is a fantastic trip report! Well done. We have two teens (junior and senior) and even though they’ve traveled to 6 of the 7 continents, we still haven’t been to the Galapagos. Since they are in school, we are limited to school holidays to visit. The cost of a one week cruise for 4 during Christmas is roughly half of what we paid to travel around the world for nearly five months! I’m now considering doing a land-based tour but I’m wondering on the practicality/availability of getting rooms during the week before Christmas if we don’t book in advance. Any thoughts on that? Thanks so much!
Lia says
Thank you Kellie! We couldn’t believe how insanely expensive it can be! We encountered no trouble at all finding rooms without booking anything in advance, but we weren’t travelling during the holiday season. I’m not sure how different it might be around Christmas. I would recommend contacting a local and asking, or perhaps trying to book in advance just to make sure you’re covered! You can contact one of the hotels where we stayed in Puerto Ayora, Sueno Silvestres, here: https://www.hostalsuenossilvestres.com/contact Perhaps he can give you an idea of whether you might need to make reservations in advance during that time of year. Tell him we said hello 🙂
Marc Patry says
You seem to place the blame on the lines at the airport on the amount of cruise-goers. In 2015, apx. 80,000 people went to Galapagos on a cruise, and 160,000 went without a cruise (government of Ecuador statistics).
Lia says
Wow, that’s really interesting! I had no idea. The lines really weren’t that bad, just about an extra hour or so. But we were with the same folks from the airport all the way to the Santa Cruz docks, and all of them except about 5 people (including us) went and met up with the same handful of cruise ships. So while there may be a higher volume of folks coming to the Galapagos without a cruise, I think they’re probably more evenly spread out and not as likely to show up in groups of 100+ at a time. Or perhaps we just chose a day to fly that was the same day as several cruises were set to embark.
Marc Patry says
I would also clarify that my friends in Puerto Ayora (I lived there for 4 years and have a great community there) complain that Las Grietas are now so overrun with day trippers that they don’t go there anymore – they find it unpleasant. Las Grietas is not a stop for ship based visitors. The last time I went, I swam to the other end only to find a pile of human excrement on a rock there. Another clarification for your readers – of the 65 or so expedition ships that ply Galapagos waters, about 50 of them carry 16 or fewer passengers. This is not a “crowd”, but a very intimate way to get around the islands. Land based is a budget friendly way to visit, but it’s out of control now – numbers are increasing by 8% – 10% / year – totally unsustainable. The government is not managing it at all, while ship based tourism is very rigorously controlled, with the total number of berths capped for the past 20+ years.
Lia Garcia says
That’s really good to know, thank you for that perspective and insight!
Manouk says
Amazing! So much information, I love how detailed you made it. I have saved it and will definitely come back and read it again when we visit the Islands in August. We plan to stay two weeks, so hopefully we manage to do all three islands.
Lia says
That’s a fantastic length of time for a Galapagos trip! You should definitely be able to see all 3 islands. I’m glad our post was helpful! Let us know if you have any other questions we can answer.
iamthewannabevagabond says
Found this really helpful! Thank you for recommending the Galapagos Islands to me via FB. I definitely want to add it to my itinerary now I know it is affordable!
Lia says
Absolutely! Happy to help 🙂
Val says
Wow what a great guide to these island .. now I wanna go! Thx for sharing!
Valerie
Lia says
You totally should Valerie! The Galapagos are amazing!
Aubrie says
Wow what a comprehensive guide! I am definitely saving this for later! I really want to go to the Galapagos Islands and your pictures were amazing!
Lia says
Thanks Aubrie! I’m glad that the guide was helpful for you!
kellybarcus says
This is great! I’m not a huge cruise fan, so this is super helpful!
Lia says
I’ve never been on a cruise, so I can’t really knock it … but it just sounds miserable. Like being stuck with a bunch of people and rocking back and forth constantly while you’re shuttled around on someone else’s schedule? Ugh no. One day I’m sure I’ll be proven totally wrong, but until then, I’m staying on land!
The Belle Voyage (@TheBelleVoyage) says
I was so excited to read this because it sounds daft but I didn’t realize it was possible to visit the Galapagos if you’re not on a cruise! I get terrible seasickness and just figured an 8-day cruise was not something I’d ever be able to do. Now I’m going to consider going and this guide will be invaluable for planning a trip!
Lia says
I’m so glad to hear that we’ve opened a whole new world of Galapagos travel to you! We were the same way before we started planning our trip… we’d never heard of doing the Galapagos by land so we just had no idea that it was a thing. When we found out there were like, hotels on the island and you can just take ferries in between each, it was such a DUH moment. It’s probably good that not many people know about it because it definitely makes for a very non-touristy and relaxed trip!
Vrithi Pushkar says
Such great information and an awesome guide. Galapagos is on our bucket-list and i am saving this for when i go.
GirlAstray says
This place looks magical. 900 for a week is a fantasy for me at the moment, but one day I will be old and rich and able to afford it! Loved the Lupe sea lion 🙂
Lia says
Oh, we definitely understand that struggle! Compared to the multi-thousands that the cruises cost, $800 seemed like a bargain to us for 9 days. We know of other backpackers who were able to teach english on the islands for even cheaper! But any way you cut it, the Galapagos isn’t as cheap as the rest of Ecuador, or even South America. Still, it doesn’t have to be as expensive as a cruise.
nomadbytrade13 says
This is a fantastic post. I’ve always wanted to go to the Galapagos Islands. I had no idea that you could visit on your own like that.
Lia says
A lot of people aren’t aware! We definitely think it’s the best way to see the Galapagos Islands.
tashasoyster says
This is such a useful guide to the Galapagos Islands! I’ve looked into cruises and group tours and have been shocked by the prices. Your itinerary looks wonderful, I’d love to see all those sea lions! Did you see any giant turtles too? I’ve seen a lot of pictures of them in the Galapagos but wasn’t sure if it’s possible to do a trip to see them from Santa Cruz Island.
Lia says
We saw giant turtles everywhere! Both the land tortoises and the sea turtles. You’ll see tons of sea turtles swimming offshore by the beach at the Charles Darwin research center, which is totally free and on Santa Cruz island. There’s also a HUGE amount of the land tortoises that you see just hanging out by the road to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz! But we swam with sea turtles every single day during our time on Isla Isabela, especially in Concha de Perlas, las Tintoreras, and Los Tuneles, which are all day trips. Pretty much you’re going to be swimming with sea turtles in the Galapagos no matter where you go!
Nina says
Thank you for your post! My husband and I were shocked by the cruise prices, and it’s good to know this trip can be done on our own. I really appreciate your detailed and easy-to-understand information. I have a question about currency: we were planning to use the Visa for everything, but sounds like that may not be the best option since you describe a lot of small fees- $1, $2, $12, etc., and also that a lot of places in Ecuador don’t even take credit cards. Did you bring a lot of cash on your trip? And, are U.S. dollars accepted or would we need to exchange? Thanks! -Nina
Lia says
What’s great about Ecuador is that they use US dollars – everything but the coins are the exact same! So yes, you can definitely just bring US dollars. We used cash pretty much the entire time we were in Ecuador because of the high fees for using credit cards. You’ll find ATMs everywhere, but in the Galapagos, there’s pretty much just one ATM per inhabited island, so we stocked up at the ATM in Puerto Ayora (at the 1 grocery store, right outside of the 1 dock – sooo very easy to find). Our bank is ATM-fee-free but if your bank charges things like a % foreign transaction fee or a fee for using an ATM, definitely bring some cash (stashed in a few different places for safety). You’ll save the most money that way!
charleymills says
This is wonderful information. We’re doing a last minute trip next week from Quito. Did you book your day tours ahead of time, or just grab them once you were on the Islands?
Lia says
We booked them on the islands! Couldn’t figure out a way to book in advance and anyway, it wasn’t necessary. Just book your tours a day or two in advance once you get to the islands, and you won’t have any problems. Everyone you meet will be more than happy to help you. One day we were desperate to do a last-minute tour and a friendly employee at our hostel spent hours on the phone calling every tour operator in town (she had the numbers all memorized and knew them all, of course) until she was able to get us on a tour! So don’t stress, you’ll be taken care of 🙂
thepineapplegallery says
Wonderful article! We are busy planning a honeymoon in the Galapagos most likely in Feburary. What time of year did you go!?
Lia says
We went in August. But Ecuador is right on top of the Equator and gets pretty much the same temperatures year-round. They may have a rainy & dry season, which would be something to look into. But it for sure won’t be cold in the Galapagos in February!
Chronic Wanderlust says
Thanks so much for this detailed post! I can’t wait to go there in a couple of months!
All best for your next trips!
Viki
Mary {The World Is A Book} says
Thank you for all these tips and helpful information. We will be in Puerto Ayora soon and will be spending a week there. We won’t be doing a cruise and doing a land based tour instead. A cruise for a family of four was going to take all our travel budget for a year or two. So glad to see all these great posts on doing the Galapagos without a cruise. You’ve convinced me about Las Grietas 🙂
Lia says
So happy to help! You’re going to have a blast!! Doing the Galapagos without a cruise is the best to do it in our opinion. And def check out Las Grietas! SO amazing!!
Suzanne Fluhr says
So glad I stumbled upon this post while browsing Pinterest in the middle of the night because I haven’t been able to sleep since our nightmare US election. We want to go to the Galápagos, but I haven’t been wanting to go on a cruise tour. I had pretty much abandoned the idea of going at all because I must be a terrible travel blogger. Your post has reinvigorated the idea. Gracias!
Lia says
I totally feel your pain … and I’m happy to hear that I helped in some small way! I would like nothing more than to go back to the Galapagos right now and drown all my worries in a pile of marine iguanas or sea lions. It’s way more financially doable than the cruise companies would have you believe!
Marcy says
Thank you so much for this great post and advice! I can’t decide if we should spend two nights in Santa Cruz to do a day trip to North Seymour (or such) or stay a third on Isabella? Do you think the cost and time of the trip to an uninhabited island is worth it after already being to Isabella? PS: we will already be in Santa Cruz for the beach and snorkeling. Thank you!
Lia says
I think I’d stay in Santa Cruz and check out North Seymour – that’s one of the ones that’s harder to get to! You can probably do the best tours in Isabela (Tintoreras and Los Tuneles) in 2 days. And Santa Cruz is home base for a ton of tours, plus it’s the home of Las Grietas, which was our fave thing on the island!
Marcy says
I can’t remember if I replied or not. But wanted to thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!
Lia says
You’re so welcome, Marcy! Happy to help.
Laura Rachal says
We were so excited to find your blog. We also thought that Galapagos would not be doable due to budget. We just got back from a diy safari in Africa and had an amazing time doing it on our own. So I have 2 questions: what month were you there? And can you pay your entrance fee before you arrive?
Lia says
Hi Laura! We visited the Galapagos in August. And I don’t believe you can pay your entrance fee before you arrive. You’ll have to go through a lot of little booths at the airport with various pieces of paper and fees. I believe they also track things like how many people are on the Island at one time, etc. Here’s more information on that fee and what it’s used for: https://www.galapagosislands.com/travel/transportation/entry-fees.html
Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with!