The Galapagos Islands are a destination that appear on most people’s bucket lists. From the clear turquoise water and white sand beaches to the incredible variety of unique animals and wildlife, the Galapagos Islands are a magical place to visit. We knew we wanted to visit the Galapagos Islands during our month in Ecuador, but as budget backpackers, weren’t sure we could afford it. Everyone seemed to visit the Galapagos Islands on a cruise, costing them thousands of dollars – PLUS airfare!
After some digging, we realized it was actually possible to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise. It sounded like it might be the best way to visit the Galapagos on a budget – and it was! Our week of backpacking the Galapagos Islands without a cruise was totally budget-friendly: our total cost for the Galapagos Islands was $800 each for 9 days. Plus, without a cruise dictating where we went and when, we were able to see all that the Galapagos Islands have to offer at our own speed, without being surrounded by a crowd.
We were able to have a fantastic week and see all of the Galapagos Islands wildlife on our bucket list: blue footed boobies, frigate birds, black marine iguanas, tropical island penguins, eagle rays, manta rays, sea turtles, land turtles, and more – all without a cruise! If you’re looking to visit the Galapagos Islands on a budget, we thoroughly recommend exploring the Galapagos by land. It was the most magical week of our entire 4 months of backpacking in South America, and we can’t wait to go back!
Here’s what you’ll find in our complete guide to the Galapagos Islands by land:
Table of Contents
We did say it was complete, right?
For even more information about the how to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, take a look at our Galapagos Packing List and read about our week in the Galapagos in detail in these 2 posts:
Ready? Let's get started!
This post was last updated 08/2018.
A marine iguana basking in the sun in the Galapagos Islands. You'll see plenty of these big guys when you visit the Galapagos Islands by land! Original photo credit: "Galapagos" (CC BY-SA 2.0) by pantxorama
The Complete Guide to the Galapagos Islands by Land
Visiting the Galapagos Islands without a cruise is the best way to see the Galapagos Islands, hands down. But finding the information to pull together an itinerary for backpacking the Galapagos Islands by land is not easy. Luckily, through lots of trial and even more error, we've figured it out for you! Any land-based Galapagos Islands trip will center around these 3 islands: Santa Cruz, Isla Isabela, and San Cristobal. They are the 3 inhabited islands, and it is from each of them that you will be able to embark on tours and day trips to see everything that the Galapagos has to offer.
We spent half the week doing day trips with Galapagos Islands guides (as is required for all locations on the uninhabited islands) and the other half blissfully exploring the 3 inhabited islands on our own, snorkeling and hiking to areas that don't require a guide or a tour. We've created a detailed 15-page downloadable guide to backpacking the Galapagos Islands without a cruise including information and tips for every tour and day trip we did, plus a few we didn't have time for. Sign up below to get the guide send straight to your inbox!
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We booked all of our Galapagos guided tours in person once we arrived on the Galapagos Islands, and we think that's the most budget-friendly option. But if you'd prefer to book online in advance, you can find some good multi-day land based tours with set itineraries, which takes a huge amount of planning off your shoulders! Here are a few options:
A female blue footed booby on the Los Tuneles tour in the Galapagos Islands! Side note: boobies are the most awkward bird we've ever seen. They're super weird and totally adorable.
How to Get to the Galapagos Islands
The only way to get to the Galapagos Islands is to fly from Ecuador. There are two cities with airports that frequently fly into the Galapagos: Quito and Guayaquil. All flights are with either Avianca or LATAM, which are both reputable and reliable South American airlines. We booked our flight from Quito to Baltra with Avianca using credit card points, which saved us a huge amount of money.
There are two airports on the Galapagos to fly into:
- Baltra: Baltra is the airport closest to Puerto Ayora and Santa Cruz Island. It's super easy to get from Baltra to Puerto Ayora, and everyone will be headed in the same direction. There's a shuttle service to the ferry from Baltra to Santa Cruz Island which costs $5. From the Santa Cruz ferry dock, you can either take a bus (the cheap, slower way) or a pickup truck taxi (the expensive, faster way) to Puerto Ayora.
- San Cristobal: San Cristobal airport is right on San Cristobal island, so this is the best place to fly into if your first stop is San Cristobal.
Travel Tips for Flying to the Galapagos Islands
- The check-in process at the airport takes a while for any flight headed to the Galapagos Islands. You'll be given some paperwork to do to let you into the island. Then, you'll go through an extra security checkpoint for certain items that aren't allowed into the Galapagos, like most raw produce. There are lines for each of these stops, and depending on the amount of cruise-goers leaving that day, it might take a while (for us, it was around an hour). Allow yourself more time than usual.
- When you arrive at the Galapagos Islands airport, you'll be subject to even more paperwork, and you'll have to pay the $100 entrance fee. We know, $100 is steep! But the entrance fee goes towards conservation, breeding of endangered species, research, habitat protection, and other really wonderful services that keep the Galapagos Island the magical wildlife haven that it is.
- If you can, fly into one airport and out of the other. We flew in and out of Baltra by Santa Cruz Island, so we based ourselves in Puerto Ayora. 9 days wasn't enough time for us to stay on all 3 islands, and we missed out entirely on San Cristobal. If you can, schedule a flight into Baltra and out of San Cristobal or vise versa to give yourself more time and flexibility for a greater variety of tours.
Some people wait a lifetime for a moment like this Boobie shoving its babie's head all the way down its throat to shut it up. Isn't nature magical? As you can see, Jeremy was able to capture this whole touching scene on our GoPro. So ... don't forget to pack yours 😉
What to Pack for the Galapagos Islands
We may have made a ton of packing mistakes on this trip, but we learned from all of them. We've got a full length guide to packing for the Galapagos Islands, but here's a short list of a few must-have recommendations.
- High SPF Sunscreen: The Galapagos are ON the equator, and the sun is STRONG. Skimping on sunscreen could mean the worst sunburn of your life! I really like this Neutrogena sunscreen because it soaks into your skin quickly and doesn't leave that icky filmy feeling.
- Reef Safe Sunscreen for when you're snorkeling or swimming, to protect the coral reef and underwater critters! You'll be swimming right through their home, and wearing regular sunscreen harms the wildlife that you're there to see. For more information on how your sunscreen can harm wildlife & the environment, this Vogue article is a fantastic source of information.
- Bathing Suit Cover or Swim Shirt: I'm gonna be honest with you: reef safe sunscreen is not the easiest to apply. It's thick and doesn't soak in easily. But like, I love animals and the environment. So my solution is actually to cover up my skin as much as possible so I don't HAVE to wear sunscreen. Win/win! When swimming, especially in cold water (like the Galapagos) I like wearing lightweight merino wool shirts (his & hers). The thin layer of wool protects my skin from the sun and insulates me, keeping me warm even when it's freezing! Another good option is a UV Swim Shirt, or even just a white button-down quick dry shirt.
- Snorkel Mask & Fins: I so wish we'd brought our own snorkel gear. Not only would we have saved SO MUCH MONEY on rentals during our entire week in the Galapagos Islands, but we would've looked so legit rolling up to the ferry like "oh, we don't need rental gear, we have our own." Every time I met someone with their own gear on a tour I was like oh, you must be an expert - here, you go first. They probably got better pictures just because we were intimidated. Snorkels equal power.
- Water Shoes: For every minute that you're not wearing flippers, you'll want to be wearing water shoes. Whether you're trying to walk over one of the insanely spiky black volcanic rocks - they're pretty, but they hurt so much - or just wading into some water (surprise! more volcanic rocks) your un-cut feet will thank me later. I swear by my trusty leather Tevas, and Jeremy likes classic close-toed water shoes.
- Steri-Pen Water Purifier: The tap water in Ecuador is not safe to drink, so we purified everything with our Steri-Pen. It's such a life saver! And we're saving plastic water bottles from the landfill. (Note: you can also use a Sawyer mini filter or water purification tablets to purify undrinkable tap water, both of which we brought just in case, but we found that we preferred the Steri-Pen for ease of use and taste.)
- Dry Bag: Don't set foot on a boat without putting your stuff in a dry bag, just in case. Like I'm not saying the boat is going to tip over, but you never know when a wave/rogue sea lion is going to splash your sh*t, and I'm not big on risk. This one is excellent and comes with a phone protector too, so your phone is extra safe (and usable while you're in the water)!
- Travel Towel: Towels are not provided on the day tours you'll be taking on your land based Galapagos Islands trip, so you'll want to bring your own lightweight, quick-dry towel.
- Dramamine: For said long boat rides. Trust me, you will need it.
- Travel Clothesline: We had this hanging up in every hotel room we stayed at in the Galapagos. Every day we hung up our wet towels and bathing suit to dry. It keeps your stuff from getting moldy and avoids the dreaded wet bathing suit rash *shudder*.
- GoPro: You didn't come all the way to the Galapagos Islands to NOT get underwater footage of baby sea lions swimming with giant sea turtles, or Blue Footed Boobies stuffing each other's faces down their throats, or whatever. You gotta have a GoPro!
- Coffee: While you might think that great coffee comes from Ecuador it can be tricky to find great coffee on the Galapagos Islands itself. So if you are a serious coffee snob we recommend packing your own stash. Slip a pack of Alpine Start instant coffee into your luggage to avoid any coffee anxiety.
For more packing tips, check out our massive guide to what to pack for the Galapagos Islands!
Read: the Essential Galapagos Packing List
Lupe the Sea Lion is a regular at the Puerto Ayora Fish Market on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos Islands. She sits patiently waiting for scraps from the table, like a dog. We want to take her home as a pet!
Santa Cruz Island & Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is a bustling coastal town on Santa Cruz Island that is absolutely teeming with wildlife! Around every corner is another opportunity to see brightly colored crabs, snoozing sea lions, and cuddling marine iguanas. You'll find many of the best restaurants, hotels, and day tours in Puerto Ayora. See this post for even more information about Puerto Ayora.
How to Get to Puerto Ayora
- From the Baltra airport: take the shuttle to the docks. Santa Cruz Island is a 5 minute ferry ride from the Baltra docks. From the docks on the Santa Cruz side it's about a 45 minute drive into Puerto Ayora. You can either take a $20 white pick-up truck taxi - you'll find many waiting - or the much cheaper bus. There are limited airline arrivals each day, so expect to wait a little while for the bus to fill up fully before it leaves. We found a group to share a taxi with us to cut costs. The bus will take you to a terminal just outside of town, but a taxi from the bus stop is only $1.
- From San Cristobal: take one of the daily ferries to Puerto Ayora. It's best to purchase your tickets at least a day in advance as there seats are limited. The ride is about 2 hours.
Tips for Visiting Puerto Ayora
- The Puerto Ayora fish market is a must-see and perfectly captures the magic of the Galapagos Islands. Lupe the Sea Lion is a regular at the Puerto Ayora fish market. She positions herself behind the counter directly underneath the cutting board, where she knows she'll get fed scraps and skin from the fresh fish fillets all day long! She's like a pet dog that's also an adorable sea lion. We want one!! You'll also find a small crowd of hovering pelicans and herons, and sometimes napping sea lions as well. Make sure to stop by during the week when it's open!
- Most places in Ecuador don't accept credit card, or charge extra to do so. The Galapagos Islands are no exception: cash is king. Luckily, there are ATMs galore on Puerto Ayora and loads of shops, restaurants and bars to spend your cash in!
- Bring sunscreen with you from the mainland. It's insanely expensive here, and you'll need it for the extra strong rays due to the proximity to the Equator. Make sure to bring reef safe sunscreen for when you'll be in the water, to protect the coral reef and other marine wildlife that live in the Galapagos! This is our favorite reef safe sunscreen.
- There is a huge grocery store right by the main dock in town, where we picked up groceries for snacks and breakfast. But keep in mind that most hotels won’t have a kitchen, and even though we were backpacking, we didn't find any hostels.
We found a great room at Suenos Silvestres hotel for a reasoanble mid-range price right in the heart of Puerto Ayora!
Where to Stay in Puerto Ayora
There are plenty of affordable hotels in Puerto Ayora! Expect decently sized private rooms with private bathrooms, hot water, towels, drinkable water, and the works for around $50-70 a night, or a bit higher if you opt to include breakfast. You'll want to stay within walking distance of the docks, kiosks, and grocery store, and most hotels are located within a 10 minute walk from everything.
Budget: Ballin' ($200+)
- Finch Bay is hands down the nicest hotel in Puerto Ayora. If you want to splash out like a celebrity, this is the place. Luxury everything. There's even a private dock with a private yacht for guests. Finch Bay is located on Punta Estrada near Alemanes Beach, away from the main area of Puerto Ayora - so you'll need to take a cheap, super quick water taxi to get to the main dock (but you'll also be conveniently located for your day trip to Las Grietas!). Amenities include free Wi-Fi, A/C, a gorgeous swimming pool and restaurant, and a pier with yachts to visit the islands. Breakfast with bacon, sausages, pancakes, fresh fruits and eggs is served daily. Check Prices
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Hotel Angermeyer Waterfront Inn is in a picturesque building made of lava stones and driftwood, located on the Punta Estrada Waterfront by Alemanes Beach. Huge windows overlook the sea as you dine on your included breakfast or enjoy a cocktail by the fireplace. Sunbathe, chill, or snorkel on the private waterfront! Check Prices
Budget: Mid-Range (Under $100)
- We stayed at Sueno Silvestres and definitely recommend it. If you stay here, tell the owner, Carlos, that we said hello! He was so friendly and welcoming. The hotel is located close the the Charles Darwin research center and a few blocks away from the beach & main stretch of Puerto Ayora in a nice quiet and private area. Our room was large, hot water was plentiful, there were free towels and drinkable water provided, and breakfast is available for an extra fee. Check prices
- We also stayed at Galapagos Native, which is more centrally located closer to the docks (located just off of a busier street). Our room was large, there were hot water and towels included, and we loved that breakfast was included in our rate. Check Prices
Budget: As Cheap As Possible (Under $50)
- For a true budget option, we've heard good things about this hostel! Galapagos Best Home Stay has 4-bed dorm rooms for around $20 a bed. That's an amazing value for the Galapagos! Check Prices
Puerto Ayora in the Galapagos Islands is an adorable town with plenty of places to eat, drink, shop, hop on boats, and see critters.
Where to Eat & Drink in Puerto Ayora
- The Kiosks/Los Kioskos are the best place to eat in Puerto Ayora. We honestly wouldn't have found Los Kioskos if not for asking a few locals! The Kiosks comprise seafood alley, a street lined with small, locally-owned restaurants all cooking variations of the same incredibly fresh, locally caught seafood purchased from the fish market earlier in the day. You'll hear sizzling from the charcoal parillas and smell smoky, grilled fish long before you stumble across this little alley.
- Our favorite part about Los Kioskos? The best food in Puerto Ayora is also the most budget friendly! A whole bruja fish to share is $15 at Sol y Mar, one of the kiosks in seafood alley. Their grilled and fried whole fish, grilled octopus, seafood cazuela, sopa de queso, and various batidos are all excellent!
- The kioscos are located at Baltra & Charles Binford. It's easy to walk from anywhere in town. You can also always take a cheap pickup truck taxi. If you need to, ask any local for help finding los kioskos - they'll all know. More information about Los Kioskos on the Galapagos Islands here.
- The best coffee in Puerto Ayora that we found was at 1835 Coffee Lab, a roastery serving locally grown Galapagos coffee.
- You'll find plenty of places to get drinks for Happy Hour along Charles Darwin avenue, the main street in Puerto Ayora. Stroll through around sunset to take advantage of the best 2-for-1 drink offers!
Activities and Day Tours from Puerto Ayora
Puerto Ayora is the main hub for the Galapagos Islands, and a good home base to do the Galapagos without a cruise. There are plenty of activities you can do on the island itself, plus loads of day trips and tours. We recommend booking your Puerto Ayora day tours as soon as you arrive on the island. To book a day trip or tour, just find any tour operator (their offices are all over town) or visit the kiosk near the docks. Be aware that you'll need to pay for your day tour up front with cash.
We've included information and tips on the best day trips and tours from Puerto Ayora that we enjoyed. There are many, many more that we didn't get a chance to experience! Here's a great resource with more helpful information on the other activities in Santa Cruz Island.
Las Grietas is the best snorkeling near Puerto Ayora! Stunning Las Grietas is prettiest and most empty at midday. The natural channel is clear and very, very deep.
Snorkel in Las Grietas
Las Grietas is a beautiful clear pool between two sheer volcanic cliff faces. During midday when the sun is high, the pool is a bright, clear blue, and the sun’s rays sparkle all the way to the bottom of the deep pool, making for incredible photos and views. You can jump off the dock into the water if you like, and climb up the cliffs to jump from the rocks if you dare! Las Grietas is the best snorkeling on Santa Cruz Island by far. As a bonus? It's free! No guide or tour necessary. Just rent some snorkel gear for the day in Puerto Ayora.
How to Get to Las Grietas
- From Puerto Ayora, take a water taxi from the docks and ask for Punta Estrada or just say you're going to Las Grietas - they'll know what you mean. It's a ridiculously short ride and the water taxi is under $1.
- Once you're dropped off, you'll walk past a fancy hotel and a couple of high-end bars and restaurants (this is the expensive side of Puerto Ayora). Walk along the boardwalk (it's the only option for you to walk on, so you won't get lost). The boardwalk will take you past Punta Estrada, a small cove where you can swim, with a beach during low tide. Keep walking down the boardwalk past some interesting pink tinged salt flats. After about 15 minutes you'll reach Las Grietas! tl;dr follow the only path until it ends. Easy enough, right?
Tips for Visiting Las Grietas
- There are actually 3 pools in Las Grietas, but most people never make it past the first one. Don't miss out! Swim all the way to the end of the first pool, climb (carefully!) over the rocks, and swim through the second pool to access the hidden third pool. To get to it you’ll either have to carefully climb over more rocks (seriously, be careful. Jeremy slipped and cut his foot here) or take a deep breath, dive down, and swim through the underwater cave on the far right side. When there are no people in the pool, there are hundreds of fish swimming in this section undisturbed, and it’s absolutely incredible.
- Head to Las Grietas around noon to beat the cruise crowds and catch the most sparkly, sunny hours. When the cruises show up they make tons of noise and scare away all the fish. You'll want to clear out by 5pm.
- We spend an entire day at Las Grietas - pack a lunch! And bring plenty of water and sunscreen, too.
- We tried snorkeling at Punta Estrada and it wasn’t worth it - visibility is awful. We only recommend visiting Punta Estrada to eat lunch on the beach during low tide and make friends with hungry finches who will land on you and look cute hoping to catch some crumbs!
Poor Jeremy lugging around our rental snorkeling gear and our tiny, terrible day bag on the beach by Tortuga Bay. Don't be like us: bring your own snorkelling gear and a decent, normal sized day bag!
Swim and Kayak in Tortuga Bay
Tortuga Bay is always listed as a must-see in Santa Cruz for wildlife, but we’re not sure we agree. It might have just been the wrong time of year, but we didn’t see a single turtle. Also, the visibility in the water was awful for snorkeling. We kayaked around the bay looking for rays, sharks, and turtles, and only managed to see a few tiny fish.
It was, however, a great beach day. The beach - especially the stunning white sand beach leading to the bay itself - is absolutely pristine, and gorgeous. It was worth the hike out even if the snorkeling wasn’t. We recommend spending a day relaxing on the beach, swimming, and kayaking in Tortuga Bay - but don't expect to see any wildlife.
How to Get to Tortuga Bay
- The best way to get to Tortuga Bay from Puerto Ayora is by walking. From the Puerto Ayora pier, cross the main road and reach Baltra Avenue. It's a red cobblestone street with a bike lane. Walk 2 blocks and you'll reach Charles Binford Street. Turn right. Follow Charles Binford Street out of town until you reach the end of the street, after about 10 minutes.
- At the end of the street is a staircase up a short hill. At the top of the hill is a little kiosk where you'll sign in to enter the park.
- From the kiosk is a smooth cobblestone path - stroller friendly, we saw a few families - that you'll walk down for about 45 minutes. It's not the prettiest walk, unless you enjoy seeing the same cactus and stubbly tree scenery for 45 minutes.
- You'll reach the beach and be rewarded with an incredibly beautiful view. The water here is too dangerous for swimming, so there's usually nobody here. Turn right and walk down the beach for a stunning 15 or so minutes until you reach the end of the beach.
- To your left are some rocks where you can see nesting marine iguanas and watch turtles swim in the open ocean.
- Straight and to the right you'll find Tortuga Bay - look for people swimming and sunbathing on the shore of a big horseshoe shaped bay!
Tips for Visiting Tortuga Bay
- Pack in everything you will need for the day as there is nowhere to buy anything at the beach. We advise bringing tons of sunscreen and sun protection (the sun is much stronger here on the equator!), a lot of water (remember you have a long sunny hike to and from Tortuga Bay), a packed lunch and snacks, toilet paper (there isn't a bathroom, but you can find a spot if you need one in the bushes), a towel, and of course your swimsuit!
- The water is comfortable for swimming without a wetsuit and is pretty shallow during low tide.
- We rented snorkel gear for $14 and it definitely wasn’t worth it - this isn’t a good snorkel spot. There are supposed to be reef sharks, rays, and turtles in the water, but it's deep and murky and you can't see anything.
- We rented kayaks for $20 an hour from the lone vendor on the beach. We attempted to snorkel in different spots in the bay that were too far to swim to, but that didn't pan out. If you enjoy kayaking just for the sake of it, rent a kayak. Otherwise, you can skip the kayak rental.
- If you want to try to skip the hike, we saw water taxis in the bay that go around the perimeter of the island to and from Puerto Ayora. You can catch one at the main docks in Puerto Ayora. While we were visiting there were a few hanging out ready to take people back, but don't count on one showing up - be prepared to walk!
Although the Santa Fe Island tour wasn't exactly our favorite, we DID get one of the only photos of us together from the entire trip. Behold: the tannest we've ever been in our lives.
Santa Fe Island Day Trip
We took the Santa Fe Island day tour from Puerto Ayora. The tour was over 8 hours long: we left at 8am and returned at 5pm. First we spent over an hour relaxing on a beach. None of the group knew we were going to be parked at a beach for over an hour, so nobody had brought anything to do, blankets, sunglasses, etc - we were all prepared to just hop in the ocean and snorkel. There was a lot of grumbling and boredom. I spent an hour building a sand castle. There are worse ways to waste time, but I do wish we’d had some advance notice.
Next we went to a rocky cliff face to snorkel. The current was incredibly strong; this is not your average relaxing snorkeling and swimming was difficult! We did see some pretty fish - the water was deeper than most of the other tours we went on.
After snorkeling, we went to another area, a bright blue lagoon, where we finally were able to swim with sea lions along the rocks where they lay relaxing. Then a provided lunch, then another optional hour for swimming, and then an odd 30 minutes of our boat trying to catch fish for the next day’s lunch; then finally we returned. It was an interesting tour, but certainly not the best we’d done.
Tips for the Santa Fe Tour from Santa Cruz Island
- The best part of this tour was that it wasn’t rushed; we weren’t constantly having to keep up with a group or all trailing the same animals. Also, there are 3 separate locations, 2 of which have unique snorkeling opportunities, so it wasn't repetitive or boring at all.
- If you do this tour, do it earlier in your trip as you’re unlikely to see much that’s new and exciting if you’ve already been snorkeling a lot.
- It’s cheaper than most day tours from Puerto Ayora: we paid $60 each including lunch.
- Our tour didn't include wetsuits, but the water is frigid. Rent wetsuits at any agency in town for the day.
- The provided masks were poorly made - two of the air tubes, including mine, fell off in the ocean. We were then asked to pay for the lost tubes (I politely refused). Yet another reason why we recommend bringing your own snorkeling gear as part of our Galapagos Packing List.
Welcome to Isla Isabela: the most paradise-y (that's a word, right?) island in the Galapagos.
Isabela Island/Isla Isabela
Isabela Island is the BEST Galapagos Island for wildlife. It's also a local favorite: every local recommended that we spend most of our trip on Isabela Island! Seahorse shaped Isabela Island is one of the three inhabited Galapagos islands. Its main town, Puerto Villamil, has plenty of hotels and restaurants. Puerto Villamil is small, with unpaved sand roads. From end to end, you can walk the entire town in 10 minutes. In comparison to bustling Puerto Ayora, Puerto Villamil is tiny and sleepy - and far more tropical feeling.
Food and hotels costs far more here, and there are fewer options. Strangely, we didn’t find the same plentiful seafood options here as we did in Puerto Ayora. Restaurant food was mostly lackluster and expensive.
There aren’t many stores on the island, so we recommend buying food at the grocery in Puerto Ayora and bringing as much as you can in to save money. Although we only spent a few days staying on the island, we saw TONS of wildlife.
There are a lot of great tours and other spots that we didn't get a chance to visit! You can find more information about activities on Isabela Island here, and read more about our time in Isla Isabela here.
How to Get to Isabela Island/Isla Isabela
- You can only get to Isla Isabela from Santa Cruz Island - there is no ferry from San Cristobal!
- To buy a ferry ticket to Isabela Island, just ask any tour agency in Puerto Ayora - they're all selling the same tickets. We purchased our ferry tickets from L/P Andy, who have a kiosk directly on the docks in Puerto Ayora.
- It's best to book your tickets to and from Isabela Island a day or two in advance.
- If you don't wish to stay overnight, you can book a day trip to Isabela Island which includes one of the tours listed below, from any tour agency in Puerto Ayora.
On Isabela Island we stayed in Casa Rosada, the pink hotel on the left. It was the cheapest, most budget option, and left much to be desired ... except for the view, which was absolutely stunning! There were volcanic rocks and marine iguanas covering the beach.
Where to Stay on Isabela Island
Although Puerto Villamil is tiny, there are plenty of comfortable places to stay on Isla Isabela. The quiet sandy seaside town will feel like an island heaven. But don't expect bargain prices - everything from electricity to coffee must be shipped to the island from the larger Puerto Ayora, making costs that much higher.
Here are our picks for where to on Isla Isabela for any budget.
Budget: Ballin' ($150+)
- Hotel Albemarle: Set in a Mediterranean-style house located right on Cuna del Sol Beach, Hotel Albemarle features a lush garden with an outdoor pool. Decorated with tiled floors and wooden-beamed ceilings, the large rooms at Albemarle Hotel are cozy and cute - and air conditioned! Each room features private marble bathrooms and either sea or pool views. If you visit during Carnaval in late February, you'll be steps away from the beachfront party! Check Prices
Budget: Mid-Range ($100-150)
- Drake Inn: If you like oceanfront views, Drake Inn is an amazing value. Located across the street from the beach, you'll be treated to stunning sea views from the private rooftop terrace. Each room here will provide you with air conditioning, a private balcony, and an included breakfast. Drake Inn is a located 3 minute walk from the Puerto Villamil town center. Check Prices
- La Casa de Marita: Situated directly on the beach, La Casa de Marita has all of the amenities you want at a super reasonable price. There's free Wi-Fi, a buffet breakfast, A/C, private balconies, hammocks to swing in as you watch the sunset, an on-site restaurant, and a pool. You'll pay extra if you want ocean-front views, but you're only ever a few steps away from the beach. Check Prices
Budget: As Cheap As Possible ($50-$100)
- Hostal Cerro Azul: Let me be clear: this hostel is mostly "cheap" because it's not directly on the beach. It's close to both the beach and the main stretch of Puerto Villamil. The amenities are just about all there: A/C, private rooms and bathrooms, hammocks, a common area, and free Wi-Fi (in common areas only). Check Prices
Sandy, sleep Puerto Villamil on Isla Isabela, the most tropical of the inhabited Galapagos Islands.
Tips for Visiting Isabela Island & Puerto Villamil
- Bring cash with you - there are no ATMs on Isabela Island! Most places won't accept credit cards, or will charge a high fee to do so (this is the case throughout Ecuador). Bring USD from home, or stock up at Puerto Ayora.000000
- Where to Eat on Isabela Island: There is one block in Puerto Villamil with several similiar restaurants all lined up next to each other. Our favorite of the bunch was El Encanto de Pepa. It has generous dinner specials like grilled fish, octopus, or fried shrimp with rice, fries and juice for $7.
- Where to get coffee on Isabela Island: Honestly, there is no good coffee on Isabela Island. We tried so hard to find some, but we couldn't - and our hotel was right across from a pricey coffee shop, too. We recommend buying cheap $1 coffee at a little juice shop near the main stretch of restaurants. It's the cheapest we found: everyone else was charging double that for the exact same shitty instant brew. You could also get shitty instant coffee from the grocery store in Puerto Ayora and bring it with you. If you are a serious coffee snob we recommend preparing in advance and packing Alpine Start instant coffee to avoid any coffee anxiety.
Activities & Tours from Isabela Island
Nobody visits Isabela Island for sleepy little Puerto Villamil (sorry, but it's true). The reason you must visit Isabela Island is for the fantastic day trips, tours, hikes, and wildlife excursions! Below are our favorite of the bunch, along with tips and suggestions.
We saw several crazy looking starfish like this one on the Los Tintoreras tour from Isabela Island! Original photo credit: "galapagos" (CC BY-SA 2.0) by pantxorama
Las Tintoreras Tour
Las Tintoreras are just off the main dock of Isabela Island, so this is a shorter guided tour than most since there is little travel time. This is a fantastic tour for snorkeling, but it is crowded and quick. We had 16 people in our tour and only stayed in the water for an hour. As soon as we spotted a turtle or an eagle ray, a crowd of people was suddenly jostling us for pictures and the animal would quickly flee.
After an hour in the water, we headed over to a nature walk in a lava rock field to see some iguanas and a small inlet where white tip reef sharks were resting. The Las Tintoreras tour was a bit too fast paced for us - we like to go at our own speed, and observe wildlife much more quietly. But, you do see a LOT of wildlife! The best part of the tour was the snorkeling, and we wish there was more of it ... and less people.
Tips for the Las Tintoreras Tour
- The tour was $45 each for 3 total hours of adventure, only 1 hour of which was in the water. Or you can book a tour in advance online here.
- The water is chilly, so we recommend wearing a short wetsuit.
- We’d recommend looking into a kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras instead, which is $40 per person and includes 3 hours on the water and no nature walk, meaning there is much more snorkeling. It’s also a much smaller tour and leaves whenever you like. We really wish we'd done this instead!
- You can book either the complete tour or the kayaking tour of Las Tintoreras at Pahoehoe Tour Agency, off of the main strip in Puerto Villamil.
A blue footed booby and his babies on the Los Tuneles tour from Isabela Island in the Galapagos!
The Lava Tunnels Tour/Los Tuneles
Los Tuneles/The Lava Tunnels tour from Isabela Island was our favorite guided tour by far. It’s about 5 hours long, including 45 minutes of travel each way. Once you arrive, you’ll be snorkeling for a good hour and a half, which allows for a more relaxed speed and less frantic jostling for pictures.
We saw countless beautiful fish, sleeping sharks in caves formed by molten lava, several giant sea turtles, and a few rays. Then we got back into the boat to eat a provided lunch, and the ship captain carefully navigated us into the lava tunnels where we saw a penguin and a nest of baby blue footed boobies with their parents! It was truly magical and everything we hoped for in a Galapagos tour.
Tips for the Lava Tunnels Tour
- We paid $90 each for a tour operated by Pahoehoe, and we’d highly recommend them. Our guide spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable - he'd been leading Galapagos tours daily for almost a decade! You can find their office in town along the main street in Puerto Villamil. We have been told prices can fluctuate so be prepared to pay up to $110, which is still totally worth it.
Sea turtles are a frequent sight underwater in the Galapagos Islands. You'll find several resident sea turtles in Concha Perlas. We also found a 6-foot giant Manta Ray, which was considerably more terrifying. Original photo credit: "P2115226" (CC BY 2.0) by Lucy Rickards
Snorkeling in Concha Perlas
Concha Perlas is a lagoon near the docks of Puerto Vilamil where you can do self-guided snorkeling and swimming, no guide necessary. After the hustle and bustle and crowd of booked tours, we wanted to do some DIY snorkeling at our own pace. Concha Perlas did not disappoint, with excellent snorkeling: perfect visibility, plenty to explore, and lots of wildlife!
We swam with several sea turtles, a GIANT manta ray (horrifyingly large, like 6 feet and jet black. I'll be honest, I thought I was going to die), a swimming iguana, and a sea lion all in under 2 hours - and with no crowds of people to navigate around! This was by far our best self-guided day trip in the Galapagos Islands.
How to Get to Concha Perlas on Isla Isabela
- Concha Perlas is little lagoon to the side of the main dock in Isla Isabela, which is about 10 minutes walking from Puerto Villamil.
- Look for a little boardwalk with a sign heading off into the mangroves just before the main docks - just past the stand selling fresh coconuts! Walk a short ways down this boardwalk stepping over napping sea lions (one barked at us, don't get too close) and you'll end up at a little dock with a ladder leading into the water.
Tips for Snorkelling in Concha Perlas on Isla Isabela
- We highly recommend spending a relaxed day of snorkeling here. It is such a nice change of pace from the guided tours!
- Concha Perlas is close to food and drink options right on the beach (including fresh young coconuts, yum!) so no packed lunch is necessary!
- The water is a little cold so you do need a wetsuit.
- We rented short wetsuits and snorkel gear from Pahoehoe for $22.
We ventured down a beach pathway near the Charles Darwin Research Center in Puerto Ayora and found a secluded beach filled with surfers and sea turtles! Galapagos, you're frakin' magical.
The Wall of Tears Hike
El Muro de Las Lagrimas is one of Isla Isabela's most famous hikes. It's self guided and is the only way to see Galapagos Flamingos without a guide. The name comes from the wall at the end of the hike. Before the Galapagos Islands was a destination for travelers all over the world and a nature conservatory, it was on its way to becoming a secretive prison colony - as one Ecuadorian native told us, it was meant to be what Guantanamo Bay became.
The Wall of Tears was built in the 1950's by 300 prisoners, toiling away under the hot sun to cut and haul heavy black volcanic rock in order to build their own prison. Pushed to their limit, the prisoners - many of whom had perished during the backbreaking work - revolted and attacked their jailers. All that is left of their struggle is the wall.
Although we didn't have time to do the hike, we were most looking forward to the chance to see flamingos, land tortoises, sea lions and marine iguanas on the 3-hour long hike. If you opt for the hike, bring a lot of sunscreen and water! The Ecuador sun is stronger than elsewhere in the world.
Sea Lions on the beach in San Cristobal in the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador. Original photo credit: "Galapagos with Germans" (CC BY-SA 2.0) by islodelba
San Cristobal Island
Sadly, we did not make it to San Cristobal Island. We tried, but it turns out you can't do a day trip from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island to San Cristobal Island for a tour without an overnight stay.
However, we heard that there isn't much to do on San Cristobal. Most of the locals we spoke to said that Isla Isabela and Santa Cruz Island were the best to visit. We can't say how true this is, but we were bummed that we didn't get a chance to check out the loberia beach, to see breeding sea lions, and do the Kicker Rock tour.
How to Get to San Cristobal Island
- You can fly into San Cristobal island and take a ferry to Santa Cruz or to other uninhabited islands.
- You can take a ferry from Santa Cruz to San Cristobal. It's about 2 hours long and leaves twice a day.
Where to Stay in San Cristobal
The main town in San Cristobal is called Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, and that's where all of the available accommodations are located.
Budget: Ballin' ($250+)
- Golden Bay Hotel & Spa: Treat yo'self to beachside luxury at this amazing resort. Located on the Playa de Oro (hence the name, I presume), Golden Bay Hotel & Spa is everything you'd want from a luxury hotel in the Galapagos Islands. You'll eat your included breakfast gazing out the windows at frolicking sea lions on the beach, only steps away. After a long day of snorkeling with critters, you'll relax in your air conditioned room after a massage at the spa. Can you imagine anything more heavenly?! Check Prices
Budget: Mid-Range ($100-$250)
- Casa Playa Mann: Situated just steps away from the beach and about a 5 minute walk from the main stretch of town, you'll be able to enjoy plenty of ocean or garden views from your hammock at Casa Playa Mann. You'll also find amenities like A/C, a fitness center (if you're That Person who works out while on vacation - you go Glen Coco), and free WiFi. Check Prices
Budget: As Cheap as Possible (Under $100)
- Casa de Jeimy: Located only 10-15 minutes walking from the airport, Casa de Jeimy is conveniently situated only a few blocks away from the waterfront. You'll get private rooms, A/C, WiFi, and the works all for a fantastic rate. Enjoy the rooftop common area overlooking the harbor or the shared kitchen and hammocks. Check Prices
- Hotel Mar Azul: You'll get awesome value at Hotel Mar Azul. The hotel is located super close to the pier and main stretch of shops and restaurants. Your room will be equipped with A/C and a mini fridge and breakfast is included. You can rent snorkelling gear from the front desk. No frills, but the rate is great! Check Prices
Each island within the Galapagos feels like a totally unique place. The geological diversity is what makes the Galapagos Islands so interesting!
Tips for Visiting San Cristobal Island
- Tours and ferries are operated separately. This means that you can't schedule a tour from Santa Cruz Island on San Cristobal and return the same night - the ferry schedule doesn't allow for it. You have to do an overnight on San Cristobal if you want to return to Santa Cruz.
- If San Cristobal is on your must-see list, we recommend trying to book a flight that lets you fly into Baltra and out of San Cristobal, or vise versa. Or, allow yourself a couple of days.
- Book tours and ferries a day or two in advance!
- There are 3 ATM's in San Cristobal, so no need to re-fill your cash supplies in Puerto Ayora.
Where to Eat & Drink in San Cristobal
- Stop by the Mockingbird Cafe for cheap meals AND the best coffee in the Galapagos! The owner of local coffee plantation Hacienda El Cafetal owns this coffee shop, which is serving up the most prized local coffee beans grown on the islands. The coffee plantation dates back to 1832, but you'd probably know it best as the source of the very first Starbucks Reserve beans in 2010.
- Grab a $5 almuerzo, aka set lunch, at Rosita for a cheap and filling meal - an Ecuadorian tradition. If you're on a budget for dinner, too, head to Lucky's, a local favorite with meals under $4.
- The best thing to eat in the Galapagos is whole grilled fish cooked on a sizzling outdoor grill, and that's what you'll find at Bambu.
- Get some delicious fresh seafood at El Descanso Marinero, which is considered by many to be the best restaurant in town.
- Here is an excellent list of local places to eat in San Cristobal that aren't on TripAdvisor!
Kicker Rock is the most popular day tour from San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos. Original photo credit: "Kicker Rock" (CC BY 2.0) by brian.gratwicke
Activities & Day Tours from San Cristobal
Although we didn't get a chance to experience them ourselves, we heard plenty of good things about the activities available on San Cristobal! Here are the best things to do on San Cristobal. You can also find an excellent guide on San Cristobal here.
The Kicker Rock Tour from San Cristobal
Kicker Rock, also called Leon Dormido for its resemblance to a sleeping sea lion, is a unique rock formation consisting of two vertical slices of cliff face set in perfect parallel to one another in the open sea. It is home to a plethora of fantastic underwater life.
This is the one tour we didn't get to do, and REALLY wanted to. We heard from a fellow backpacker that Kicker Rock was the best snorkeling in the Galapagos! In addition to the usual Galapagos menagerie of rays, fish, turtles, and more, you'll also get the chance to swim with sea lions and, circling far down below, hammerhead sharks!! Ahhh!
Kicker Rock is also an amazing place to dive, if you're certified.
How to Get to Kicker Rock
- Kicker Rock is just off the shore of San Cristobal. If you're in San Cristobal, it's an easy and inexpensive day trip. Book with any tour operator in town.
- If you're in Santa Cruz, you'll need to book a ferry to San Cristobal, book a Kicker Rock tour on San Cristobal Island, and then book your return ferry the next day. I know it sounds like a lot of booking, but it's actually really easy to do: You can book the ferries & tour while still in Santa Cruz, with any agency or tour operator in town. Or, just go to the docks and find the kiosk (there is only one). They'll be able to help you there.
- Plan to stay overnight on San Cristobal - you can't do this as a day trip from Puerto Ayora!
Sea lions are everywhere in the Galapagos. You'll have to step over them on a regular basis. Does it ever get annoying? No. Never. Sea lions are the cutest and we want one as a pet. Original photo credit: "Sea Lion siesta" (CC BY-SA 2.0) by empty007
La Loberia Beach
La Loberia is named for its claim to fame: it's a Sea Lion breeding ground! When the tide is low, you can snorkel with adorable baby sea lions and their sea turtle friends like you're a character in a Disney movie (just don't touch them. Or feed them)! You also have a good chance to see blue footed boobies and frigate birds here - and you're guaranteed to get spit on by some huffy marine iguanas.
To get to La Loberia, Take a $3 camioneta (a white taxi found everywhere on the islands) 5 minutes, or rent a bike for a 15 minute ride. Or, walk for 40 minutes out of town. You can visit La Loberia without a guide, but look for a yellow or red flag which indicates that it's unsafe to swim. Stay for the sunset - the views are said to be absolutely incredible!
Watch the Sunset at Lover's Beach
Cozy up with your honey (or like, a sea lion or whatever) at Punta Carola, also known as Lovers Beach. To get to Lover's Beach, take the path through the Interpretation Center or walk to the end of the dirt road and locate a rocky path leading to the beach. You can watch the sunset from the beach or continue on the path up Cerro Tijeratas (aka Frigate Bird Hill) to catch some absolutely stunning views of the sun setting over Kicker Rock from up high - while chillin' with some Frigate Birds, of course. It's a Galapagos Islands dream!
Download the Galapagos Islands by Land Guide
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We hope this guide was informative and helpful in showing just how much there is to see on the Galapagos Islands without a cruise! Backpacking the Galapagos Islands is a fantastic and budget-friendly adventure, and by far our favorite stop during our 4 months in South America.
For even more information about the how to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise, check out our Galapagos packing list guide and read about our week in the Galapagos in detail in these 2 posts:
Prefer to book in advance online? Here are some great tour options!
Planning a trip to Ecuador? There's SO MUCH to see and do in this amazing country! Check out our other Ecuador resources:
- Backpacking Ecuador: Itinerary for 1 Incredible Month
- 30 Things No One Tells You About Backpacking in Ecuador
- 11 Mind-Blowing Things to Do in Baños, Ecuador (on a budget)
- Hiking the Quilotoa Loop in Ecuador: Reverse Route Travel Guide
Please leave us a comment below if you have any questions about planning your trip to the Galapagos Islands without a cruise!
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Feature photo credit: "Sea Lion siesta" (CC BY-SA 2.0) by empty007
Disclaimer: This post contains a sponsored link from Nature Galapagos as well as a few affiliate links to hotels, flights, and tours. Our trip to the Galapagos Island was NOT sponsored and we paid for everything 100% out of our own pockets.
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![[SAN FRANCISCO] The Gold Rush. The Summer of Love. Silicon Valley. San Francisco is a chameleon city: every few decades it changes, morphing into whatever the next Big Thing is and attracting idealists, inventors, and forward-thinkers. It's a city of beauty, joy, art, and innovation.
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The story of San Francisco is written up and down its steep, winding streets. You'll feel the history of San Francisco as you're climbing Coit Tower for sweeping views of Alcatraz and the Bay, or taking Golden Gate Bridge selfies at Baker Beach (just watch out for nude photo-bombers in the background). You'll feel it as you're warming up with a steaming bread bowl full of clam chowder at Fisherman's Wharf, or kickin' it with the hippies in Haight-Ashbury who came in 1969 and never left. Reading beat poetry in Jack Kerouac Alley. Enjoying a sweet, soft coconut bun from a tiny bakery in Chinatown. Admiring the beautiful, powerful street art in the Mission district. Celebrating marriage and gender equality in the Castro. Trying to figure out if that's Mark Zuckerberg or just some other techie dude in a Facebook hoodie in the Financial District (I guess that's not history... yet). Each neighborhood in the city tells its own story.
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San Francisco also has its problems: rampant homelessness. Gentrification. Diminishing diversity. Corporate interests pushing the city forward without enough consideration of its long-term residents. Insane rent prices.
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It is a city that reflects America's extremes: you can feel the divide between the wealthy, zipping around on hoverboards or private cars and ordering everything from dinner to housekeeping on their smartphones; and those who are struggling to make ends meet - or struggling to survive on the streets.
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Although we live in Oakland, we have a lot of love for San Francisco and its complex past & present. You should visit and decide what you think of it yourself! We've got a post about where to stay when you visit, built on Jeremy's decade of experience as a local and a mindful approach to San Francisco's many complexities - link in bio.
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What do you associate with San Francisco? Have you ever been? Drop us a comment below!](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/8a9baaae44a32f2d3eeab63cfe008980/5DDFA537/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/67936545_442033469734625_6728412070039651574_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[SAN FRANCISCO] The Gold Rush. The Summer of Love. Silicon Valley. San Francisco is a chameleon city: every few decades it changes, morphing into whatever the next Big Thing is and attracting idealists, inventors, and forward-thinkers. It's a city of beauty, joy, art, and innovation.
.
The story of San Francisco is written up and down its steep, winding streets. You'll feel the history of San Francisco as you're climbing Coit Tower for sweeping views of Alcatraz and the Bay, or taking Golden Gate Bridge selfies at Baker Beach (just watch out for nude photo-bombers in the background). You'll feel it as you're warming up with a steaming bread bowl full of clam chowder at Fisherman's Wharf, or kickin' it with the hippies in Haight-Ashbury who came in 1969 and never left. Reading beat poetry in Jack Kerouac Alley. Enjoying a sweet, soft coconut bun from a tiny bakery in Chinatown. Admiring the beautiful, powerful street art in the Mission district. Celebrating marriage and gender equality in the Castro. Trying to figure out if that's Mark Zuckerberg or just some other techie dude in a Facebook hoodie in the Financial District (I guess that's not history... yet). Each neighborhood in the city tells its own story.
.
San Francisco also has its problems: rampant homelessness. Gentrification. Diminishing diversity. Corporate interests pushing the city forward without enough consideration of its long-term residents. Insane rent prices.
.
It is a city that reflects America's extremes: you can feel the divide between the wealthy, zipping around on hoverboards or private cars and ordering everything from dinner to housekeeping on their smartphones; and those who are struggling to make ends meet - or struggling to survive on the streets.
.
Although we live in Oakland, we have a lot of love for San Francisco and its complex past & present. You should visit and decide what you think of it yourself! We've got a post about where to stay when you visit, built on Jeremy's decade of experience as a local and a mindful approach to San Francisco's many complexities - link in bio.
.
What do you associate with San Francisco? Have you ever been? Drop us a comment below!")
![[BEACH PEOPLE] Some people are born to be on the beach. All year long, they dream about dipping their toes in bright blue water and frolicking on soft white sand, and they return from their beach vacation with sun-kissed skin, positively glowing with beachy bliss.
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I envy those people.
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While they’re happily soaking up the sun, I’m busy being burned to a crisp, accidentally inhaling mouthfuls of sand, swallowing saltwater, freaking out because I saw one single jellyfish, yanking tangles out of my hair, and trying to get sand un-stuck from places that sand should never, ever be.
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I am truly the least graceful person who has ever been on a beach. And it doesn’t help that finding a decent swimsuit as a size 16, almost 6-foot tall Amazonian woman is an exercise in torture and frustration (what is this, a bikini bottom for ANTS?!). Honestly, somehow I find it easier to pack for a trip to the literal Arctic Tundra than a day at the beach.
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Which is why I began my 3 days of beachy bliss in the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama by complaining. It was hot. It was sticky. There was sand EVERYWHERE. There weren't enough hammocks. There was too much sun. There were crabs (aka giant armored spiders) leaping around doing little crab waltzes or whatever. There was only electricity for an hour or so a day. There was no WiFi at all. I was convinced that this was hell.
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Clearly, it was not hell. But it took me a bit to adjust to being constantly covered in sunscreen and saltwater. By the end of our 3rd day in San Blas, I was in full relaxation mode: I hadn't worn shoes in 3 days, my hair was in goddess-mode, and I'd sent off at least 53 emails via my crappy Panamanian SIM card that said "I'm on an island with no electricity or WiFi, so I'll have to get back to you later." I was officially in Island Mode, and for one glorious, shining moment, I finally understood Beach People. (I will never be able to accept crabs, though. Crabs are horrifying.)
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Are you Beach People or would you prefer to cozy up to the fireplace in a mountain lodge with me?](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/5d9a4e126269bdfe72039acf23933817/5DE2F442/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/65644919_2534245056640344_7143638401448131207_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[BEACH PEOPLE] Some people are born to be on the beach. All year long, they dream about dipping their toes in bright blue water and frolicking on soft white sand, and they return from their beach vacation with sun-kissed skin, positively glowing with beachy bliss.
.
I envy those people.
.
While they’re happily soaking up the sun, I’m busy being burned to a crisp, accidentally inhaling mouthfuls of sand, swallowing saltwater, freaking out because I saw one single jellyfish, yanking tangles out of my hair, and trying to get sand un-stuck from places that sand should never, ever be.
.
I am truly the least graceful person who has ever been on a beach. And it doesn’t help that finding a decent swimsuit as a size 16, almost 6-foot tall Amazonian woman is an exercise in torture and frustration (what is this, a bikini bottom for ANTS?!). Honestly, somehow I find it easier to pack for a trip to the literal Arctic Tundra than a day at the beach.
.
Which is why I began my 3 days of beachy bliss in the San Blas Islands off the coast of Panama by complaining. It was hot. It was sticky. There was sand EVERYWHERE. There weren't enough hammocks. There was too much sun. There were crabs (aka giant armored spiders) leaping around doing little crab waltzes or whatever. There was only electricity for an hour or so a day. There was no WiFi at all. I was convinced that this was hell.
.
Clearly, it was not hell. But it took me a bit to adjust to being constantly covered in sunscreen and saltwater. By the end of our 3rd day in San Blas, I was in full relaxation mode: I hadn't worn shoes in 3 days, my hair was in goddess-mode, and I'd sent off at least 53 emails via my crappy Panamanian SIM card that said \"I'm on an island with no electricity or WiFi, so I'll have to get back to you later.\" I was officially in Island Mode, and for one glorious, shining moment, I finally understood Beach People. (I will never be able to accept crabs, though. Crabs are horrifying.)
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Are you Beach People or would you prefer to cozy up to the fireplace in a mountain lodge with me?")
![#ad [Trigger Warning: Eating Disorder] It took me a long time and a lot of hard work to love my body. Before my body and I loved each other, we were at war. I denied my body food. I mutilated my beautiful skin. And I attacked my own mind, verbally abusing myself from within in a torrent of vitriol, hate, and anger.
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In turn, my body rebelled. It ceased all non-vital functions, like growing my hair and nails, or menstruating. It denied me control of my own emotions, debilitating me with unpredictable fits of panic and terror. It focused my mind so intently on food that I had difficulty concentrating on anything else. And when the battle was at its worst, when I had denied my body even a single bite of food for over a week, my body retaliated by shutting down the functions of my heart.
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I was only 16 years old when my heart rate plummeted to 30 beats per minute. A doctor told me to start eating again, or I would die. I was dangerously underweight. But I made the decision to live.
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I don't talk too much about my ED because it makes me so incredibly sad. Because today, my body and I have a beautiful relationship. I worship my body, and it loves me right back. I treat my body with respect and it repays me with strength, endurance, and resilience. Together, we are an incredible team, capable of achieving any challenges or goals we dream up. And it makes me so sad to think back to the time when we weren't.
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But it's important for me to talk about it, openly and publicly, because I know some of y'all out there are struggling too. And I want to let you know that it's OK, I've been there - and it doesn't always have to be this way.
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No matter where you are in your journey to self-love, I want to challenge you to make peace with your body today. If you two are at war, call a truce. If you are reconciling, show yourself a little extra love today. One thing that helped me immensely during my recovery was to look at beautiful, positive images of women whose bodies looked like mine. So today, I'm following body-positive Instagrammers (got any faves?) and browsing @CaciqueIntimates!
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Tell me what you'll be doing to make peace with your body today!
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#FortheLoveofCurves](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/e447022c2d01bd83a732a7bc2cc5270f/5DE4AEC0/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.134.1080.1080/s640x640/67688744_1118377025017476_7306756110191464725_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "#ad [Trigger Warning: Eating Disorder] It took me a long time and a lot of hard work to love my body. Before my body and I loved each other, we were at war. I denied my body food. I mutilated my beautiful skin. And I attacked my own mind, verbally abusing myself from within in a torrent of vitriol, hate, and anger.
.
In turn, my body rebelled. It ceased all non-vital functions, like growing my hair and nails, or menstruating. It denied me control of my own emotions, debilitating me with unpredictable fits of panic and terror. It focused my mind so intently on food that I had difficulty concentrating on anything else. And when the battle was at its worst, when I had denied my body even a single bite of food for over a week, my body retaliated by shutting down the functions of my heart.
.
I was only 16 years old when my heart rate plummeted to 30 beats per minute. A doctor told me to start eating again, or I would die. I was dangerously underweight. But I made the decision to live.
.
I don't talk too much about my ED because it makes me so incredibly sad. Because today, my body and I have a beautiful relationship. I worship my body, and it loves me right back. I treat my body with respect and it repays me with strength, endurance, and resilience. Together, we are an incredible team, capable of achieving any challenges or goals we dream up. And it makes me so sad to think back to the time when we weren't.
.
But it's important for me to talk about it, openly and publicly, because I know some of y'all out there are struggling too. And I want to let you know that it's OK, I've been there - and it doesn't always have to be this way.
.
No matter where you are in your journey to self-love, I want to challenge you to make peace with your body today. If you two are at war, call a truce. If you are reconciling, show yourself a little extra love today. One thing that helped me immensely during my recovery was to look at beautiful, positive images of women whose bodies looked like mine. So today, I'm following body-positive Instagrammers (got any faves?) and browsing @CaciqueIntimates!
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Tell me what you'll be doing to make peace with your body today!
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#FortheLoveofCurves")
![[FLASHBACK] We landed in Cartagena, Colombia for the first time ever on July 11th, 2016. The day before, we packed up what was left of of our belongings, said a tearful goodbye to our neighborhood cat friend Jasper, and boarded a plane to Cartagena, with no idea what to expect from the next year of travel.
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When we stepped onto the tarmac the Cartagena heat smacked us full on in the face. We were ill prepared for it. We were also ill prepared for the water we couldn't drink, the food we weren't quite sure how to order, the language we were struggling to speak, the culture that felt so unfamiliar to us, and the utter overwhelm of changing everything about our lives and giving up the comforts of a home we'd made for ourselves just to chase a crazy dream I'd been holding onto for a few years.
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We spent that first night in Cartagena cuddled up in one uncomfortable bed in our hostel dorm, crying. (We also tearfully sent an email to our cat friend's owners to ask if we could Skype with Jasper. They did not respond.)
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This trip, our 3rd visit back to Cartagena, felt like a world apart from that first miserable night. We were joined by a group of 16 high school students and 3 of Jeremy's amazing co-educators on our @take_flyte_org trip. We brought the group to dinner at our favorite local restaurant (La Casa de Socorro) and insisted they order our favorite dish (seafood soup). As we explored Cartagena together we pointed out murals on the walls that had changed over the years, new developments being built, restaurants we loved, our favorite picturesque alleys in Getsemani, even the hostel dog we'd played with at that very first hostel so many years ago (he didn't remember us). We greeted Cartagena like an old friend and lovingly introduced her to Jeremy's students.
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3 years ago, we were afraid that we'd ruined our lives by quitting our jobs and giving up perfectly good lives to seek out adventure on a whim. Little did we know that our paths - both personal and professional - would take us back to Cartagena again and again. Cartagena is our lucky city!
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Have you returned to a place years later? How had you & the place you visited changed? Drop us a comment!](http://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/vp/8510a401e0dde9bef0f0dc8efd38f7bd/5DE32002/t51.2885-15/sh0.08/e35/c0.135.1080.1080a/s640x640/66217194_2311686425735958_7775172171184034345_n.jpg?_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com "[FLASHBACK] We landed in Cartagena, Colombia for the first time ever on July 11th, 2016. The day before, we packed up what was left of of our belongings, said a tearful goodbye to our neighborhood cat friend Jasper, and boarded a plane to Cartagena, with no idea what to expect from the next year of travel.
.
When we stepped onto the tarmac the Cartagena heat smacked us full on in the face. We were ill prepared for it. We were also ill prepared for the water we couldn't drink, the food we weren't quite sure how to order, the language we were struggling to speak, the culture that felt so unfamiliar to us, and the utter overwhelm of changing everything about our lives and giving up the comforts of a home we'd made for ourselves just to chase a crazy dream I'd been holding onto for a few years.
.
We spent that first night in Cartagena cuddled up in one uncomfortable bed in our hostel dorm, crying. (We also tearfully sent an email to our cat friend's owners to ask if we could Skype with Jasper. They did not respond.)
.
This trip, our 3rd visit back to Cartagena, felt like a world apart from that first miserable night. We were joined by a group of 16 high school students and 3 of Jeremy's amazing co-educators on our @take_flyte_org trip. We brought the group to dinner at our favorite local restaurant (La Casa de Socorro) and insisted they order our favorite dish (seafood soup). As we explored Cartagena together we pointed out murals on the walls that had changed over the years, new developments being built, restaurants we loved, our favorite picturesque alleys in Getsemani, even the hostel dog we'd played with at that very first hostel so many years ago (he didn't remember us). We greeted Cartagena like an old friend and lovingly introduced her to Jeremy's students.
.
3 years ago, we were afraid that we'd ruined our lives by quitting our jobs and giving up perfectly good lives to seek out adventure on a whim. Little did we know that our paths - both personal and professional - would take us back to Cartagena again and again. Cartagena is our lucky city!
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Have you returned to a place years later? How had you & the place you visited changed? Drop us a comment!")
So glad I stumbled upon this post while browsing Pinterest in the middle of the night because I haven’t been able to sleep since our nightmare US election. We want to go to the Galápagos, but I haven’t been wanting to go on a cruise tour. I had pretty much abandoned the idea of going at all because I must be a terrible travel blogger. Your post has reinvigorated the idea. Gracias!
I totally feel your pain … and I’m happy to hear that I helped in some small way! I would like nothing more than to go back to the Galapagos right now and drown all my worries in a pile of marine iguanas or sea lions. It’s way more financially doable than the cruise companies would have you believe!
Thank you so much for this great post and advice! I can’t decide if we should spend two nights in Santa Cruz to do a day trip to North Seymour (or such) or stay a third on Isabella? Do you think the cost and time of the trip to an uninhabited island is worth it after already being to Isabella? PS: we will already be in Santa Cruz for the beach and snorkeling. Thank you!
I think I’d stay in Santa Cruz and check out North Seymour – that’s one of the ones that’s harder to get to! You can probably do the best tours in Isabela (Tintoreras and Los Tuneles) in 2 days. And Santa Cruz is home base for a ton of tours, plus it’s the home of Las Grietas, which was our fave thing on the island!
I can’t remember if I replied or not. But wanted to thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!
You’re so welcome, Marcy! Happy to help.
We were so excited to find your blog. We also thought that Galapagos would not be doable due to budget. We just got back from a diy safari in Africa and had an amazing time doing it on our own. So I have 2 questions: what month were you there? And can you pay your entrance fee before you arrive?
Hi Laura! We visited the Galapagos in August. And I don’t believe you can pay your entrance fee before you arrive. You’ll have to go through a lot of little booths at the airport with various pieces of paper and fees. I believe they also track things like how many people are on the Island at one time, etc. Here’s more information on that fee and what it’s used for: https://www.galapagosislands.com/travel/transportation/entry-fees.html
Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with!
Thank you for all these tips and helpful information. We will be in Puerto Ayora soon and will be spending a week there. We won’t be doing a cruise and doing a land based tour instead. A cruise for a family of four was going to take all our travel budget for a year or two. So glad to see all these great posts on doing the Galapagos without a cruise. You’ve convinced me about Las Grietas 🙂
So happy to help! You’re going to have a blast!! Doing the Galapagos without a cruise is the best to do it in our opinion. And def check out Las Grietas! SO amazing!!
Thanks so much for this detailed post! I can’t wait to go there in a couple of months!
All best for your next trips!
Viki
Wonderful article! We are busy planning a honeymoon in the Galapagos most likely in Feburary. What time of year did you go!?
We went in August. But Ecuador is right on top of the Equator and gets pretty much the same temperatures year-round. They may have a rainy & dry season, which would be something to look into. But it for sure won’t be cold in the Galapagos in February!
This is wonderful information. We’re doing a last minute trip next week from Quito. Did you book your day tours ahead of time, or just grab them once you were on the Islands?
We booked them on the islands! Couldn’t figure out a way to book in advance and anyway, it wasn’t necessary. Just book your tours a day or two in advance once you get to the islands, and you won’t have any problems. Everyone you meet will be more than happy to help you. One day we were desperate to do a last-minute tour and a friendly employee at our hostel spent hours on the phone calling every tour operator in town (she had the numbers all memorized and knew them all, of course) until she was able to get us on a tour! So don’t stress, you’ll be taken care of 🙂
Thank you for your post! My husband and I were shocked by the cruise prices, and it’s good to know this trip can be done on our own. I really appreciate your detailed and easy-to-understand information. I have a question about currency: we were planning to use the Visa for everything, but sounds like that may not be the best option since you describe a lot of small fees- $1, $2, $12, etc., and also that a lot of places in Ecuador don’t even take credit cards. Did you bring a lot of cash on your trip? And, are U.S. dollars accepted or would we need to exchange? Thanks! -Nina
What’s great about Ecuador is that they use US dollars – everything but the coins are the exact same! So yes, you can definitely just bring US dollars. We used cash pretty much the entire time we were in Ecuador because of the high fees for using credit cards. You’ll find ATMs everywhere, but in the Galapagos, there’s pretty much just one ATM per inhabited island, so we stocked up at the ATM in Puerto Ayora (at the 1 grocery store, right outside of the 1 dock – sooo very easy to find). Our bank is ATM-fee-free but if your bank charges things like a % foreign transaction fee or a fee for using an ATM, definitely bring some cash (stashed in a few different places for safety). You’ll save the most money that way!
This is such a useful guide to the Galapagos Islands! I’ve looked into cruises and group tours and have been shocked by the prices. Your itinerary looks wonderful, I’d love to see all those sea lions! Did you see any giant turtles too? I’ve seen a lot of pictures of them in the Galapagos but wasn’t sure if it’s possible to do a trip to see them from Santa Cruz Island.
We saw giant turtles everywhere! Both the land tortoises and the sea turtles. You’ll see tons of sea turtles swimming offshore by the beach at the Charles Darwin research center, which is totally free and on Santa Cruz island. There’s also a HUGE amount of the land tortoises that you see just hanging out by the road to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz! But we swam with sea turtles every single day during our time on Isla Isabela, especially in Concha de Perlas, las Tintoreras, and Los Tuneles, which are all day trips. Pretty much you’re going to be swimming with sea turtles in the Galapagos no matter where you go!
This is a fantastic post. I’ve always wanted to go to the Galapagos Islands. I had no idea that you could visit on your own like that.
A lot of people aren’t aware! We definitely think it’s the best way to see the Galapagos Islands.
This place looks magical. 900 for a week is a fantasy for me at the moment, but one day I will be old and rich and able to afford it! Loved the Lupe sea lion 🙂
Oh, we definitely understand that struggle! Compared to the multi-thousands that the cruises cost, $800 seemed like a bargain to us for 9 days. We know of other backpackers who were able to teach english on the islands for even cheaper! But any way you cut it, the Galapagos isn’t as cheap as the rest of Ecuador, or even South America. Still, it doesn’t have to be as expensive as a cruise.
Such great information and an awesome guide. Galapagos is on our bucket-list and i am saving this for when i go.
I was so excited to read this because it sounds daft but I didn’t realize it was possible to visit the Galapagos if you’re not on a cruise! I get terrible seasickness and just figured an 8-day cruise was not something I’d ever be able to do. Now I’m going to consider going and this guide will be invaluable for planning a trip!
I’m so glad to hear that we’ve opened a whole new world of Galapagos travel to you! We were the same way before we started planning our trip… we’d never heard of doing the Galapagos by land so we just had no idea that it was a thing. When we found out there were like, hotels on the island and you can just take ferries in between each, it was such a DUH moment. It’s probably good that not many people know about it because it definitely makes for a very non-touristy and relaxed trip!
This is great! I’m not a huge cruise fan, so this is super helpful!
I’ve never been on a cruise, so I can’t really knock it … but it just sounds miserable. Like being stuck with a bunch of people and rocking back and forth constantly while you’re shuttled around on someone else’s schedule? Ugh no. One day I’m sure I’ll be proven totally wrong, but until then, I’m staying on land!
Wow what a comprehensive guide! I am definitely saving this for later! I really want to go to the Galapagos Islands and your pictures were amazing!
Thanks Aubrie! I’m glad that the guide was helpful for you!
Wow what a great guide to these island .. now I wanna go! Thx for sharing!
Valerie
You totally should Valerie! The Galapagos are amazing!
Found this really helpful! Thank you for recommending the Galapagos Islands to me via FB. I definitely want to add it to my itinerary now I know it is affordable!
Absolutely! Happy to help 🙂
Amazing! So much information, I love how detailed you made it. I have saved it and will definitely come back and read it again when we visit the Islands in August. We plan to stay two weeks, so hopefully we manage to do all three islands.
That’s a fantastic length of time for a Galapagos trip! You should definitely be able to see all 3 islands. I’m glad our post was helpful! Let us know if you have any other questions we can answer.
You seem to place the blame on the lines at the airport on the amount of cruise-goers. In 2015, apx. 80,000 people went to Galapagos on a cruise, and 160,000 went without a cruise (government of Ecuador statistics).
Wow, that’s really interesting! I had no idea. The lines really weren’t that bad, just about an extra hour or so. But we were with the same folks from the airport all the way to the Santa Cruz docks, and all of them except about 5 people (including us) went and met up with the same handful of cruise ships. So while there may be a higher volume of folks coming to the Galapagos without a cruise, I think they’re probably more evenly spread out and not as likely to show up in groups of 100+ at a time. Or perhaps we just chose a day to fly that was the same day as several cruises were set to embark.
I would also clarify that my friends in Puerto Ayora (I lived there for 4 years and have a great community there) complain that Las Grietas are now so overrun with day trippers that they don’t go there anymore – they find it unpleasant. Las Grietas is not a stop for ship based visitors. The last time I went, I swam to the other end only to find a pile of human excrement on a rock there. Another clarification for your readers – of the 65 or so expedition ships that ply Galapagos waters, about 50 of them carry 16 or fewer passengers. This is not a “crowd”, but a very intimate way to get around the islands. Land based is a budget friendly way to visit, but it’s out of control now – numbers are increasing by 8% – 10% / year – totally unsustainable. The government is not managing it at all, while ship based tourism is very rigorously controlled, with the total number of berths capped for the past 20+ years.
That’s really good to know, thank you for that perspective and insight!
This is a fantastic trip report! Well done. We have two teens (junior and senior) and even though they’ve traveled to 6 of the 7 continents, we still haven’t been to the Galapagos. Since they are in school, we are limited to school holidays to visit. The cost of a one week cruise for 4 during Christmas is roughly half of what we paid to travel around the world for nearly five months! I’m now considering doing a land-based tour but I’m wondering on the practicality/availability of getting rooms during the week before Christmas if we don’t book in advance. Any thoughts on that? Thanks so much!
Thank you Kellie! We couldn’t believe how insanely expensive it can be! We encountered no trouble at all finding rooms without booking anything in advance, but we weren’t travelling during the holiday season. I’m not sure how different it might be around Christmas. I would recommend contacting a local and asking, or perhaps trying to book in advance just to make sure you’re covered! You can contact one of the hotels where we stayed in Puerto Ayora, Sueno Silvestres, here: https://www.hostalsuenossilvestres.com/contact Perhaps he can give you an idea of whether you might need to make reservations in advance during that time of year. Tell him we said hello 🙂
Would you recommend specific footwear? I am traveling in South America for the year and only brought crappy flip flops and sneakers. I would wear my sneakers in the water but if they get wet I’m not sure they will dry. Do you think it is worth getting some tevas? I’m also concerned about breaking in new sandals during my trip. Do the places with wetsuits also have water shoes for rent?
Flip flops are definitely not good for the water because of their tendency to float away. I highly recommend getting a pair of Tevas – they’re leather, so no breaking in necessary, they’re cute, and the strap keeps them on tight. I’ve worn them swimming, snorkeling, white water rafting, and even hiking, and they are up for the challenge! This is the pair that I wear (I’m on my 3rd pair!): http://amzn.to/2sHpfuh
Some places definitely rent water shoes, but if you’re snorkeling, you may not need them because you’ll have on flippers.
Hello, thanks for a great detailed report. We are going next month with our 11-month old baby. What do you think about having the baby in the speedboat from Santa Cruz to Isabella? And on day tours?
I think the baby will be fine in the speedboat – it’s choppy and bouncy, but hopefully in a sort of lulling, relaxing way? – but I’m not sure about day tours. You’re in the water for pretty much all of your day tours and there’s not always a boat nearby. I’d be sure to ask the tour operator when you book about whether it’s OK for the baby to stay in the boat while you’re in the water!
Lia & Jerry
Thanks a lot for a well written & detailed guide to Galapagos!! we are planning to go there in early Nov and we didn’t want to do the standard Cruise tours and I was looking for info on how to go by ourselves. I am glad I got to your blog 🙂 Super!! After reading your blog, I am convinced that we can go on our own. Thanks a lot.. 🙂 Srini
We’re so happy to help, Srini! I’m glad you found our blog too 🙂
Hi Lia – question: when you post taxi fare is that per person or per car? As there are 4 of us I just need to be sure. Thanks so much for your help!!!! Bobbie
That’s per car! So the more people there are, the cheaper it ends up being. We usually find travelers to split cars with for that exact reason.
Thanks for the amazingly detailed post, you have just given me and my boyfriend our next destination! I wanted to know about your 800$ cost for the trip. Is it including everything from tours, hotels, food and taxis and such?
Yes, $800 (EACH, So $1600 total) includes everything for 8 days: entrance fees, tours, hotels, food, and transportation, from Quito to the Galapagos and back. It even includes flights – but our flights were insanely cheap because we booked using LATAM points we earned from a rewards credit card, which isn’t doable for everyone. And of course you’ll need to get yourself to Quito. But that’s a good number to go off of for your trip on the actual islands once you arrive!
Oh how happy I am to have found this! What a thorough and encouraging article on traveling the Galapagos without a cruise! I’m so very excited! Thank you so much for sharing this information
So glad i found this site, full of useful information!! Thank you!
What month did you travel? I am travelling with small children and i am worried about the ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela being not calm, did you find this to be the case?
Thanks
We visited the Galapagos in late August. The ferry from Santa Cruz to Isabela is definitely not calm – the waters are quite choppy! If your little ones are able to take an anti-nausea medication like Dramamine, that’s a big help. It also helps to sit outside so you can watch the waves as you bounce over them, but it is colder, so take a jacket and some sun protection as well!
Hello Liz,
Thanks for such a comprehensive blog. We are thinking of going next year in August. My questions are how cold was the sea water – the tempertuare if you it. Secondly how difficult was the crossing in the ferries between islands.
Thanks Paula
Hi Paula! Great questions. The water is a bit cold, as it’s the Pacific ocean. That said, it’s certainly warmer than the water in California 😛 you’ll be fine with a short-sleeved wet suit for most of the tours, which are typically provided (or you can rent one from a zillion different places in town). I’m a big wuss and after a few minutes of swimming in a short wet suit I was fine.
The ferry crossings are not bad if you take dramamine! I get nauseous just thinking about swaying from side to side, and a dramamine kept me feeling totally fine. The actual ferries are very easy to locate and simple to purchase a ticket for, too, so the whole process is relatively painless. It’s around 2 hours on the boat from Santa Cruz to Isabela and back again.
Great Post! Thanks so much for the info. I was wondering if you had a file that can be downloaded of this guide? Thanks again.
That’s an awesome suggestion, Ashley! It took me a few days, but I whipped one up. I’ll send you a copy 🙂
Hi Lia,
Your land-based visit of the Galapagos is excellent. Very well done. We have just returned from 10 days in Ecuador and five of those on a fantastic cruise. We waited and got our cruise package at half off plus they included round trip airfare from Quito to Galapagos and ground transportation. We were on a relatively brand new 16 passenger catamaran. Our Naturalist and crew were fantastic. We had 4 shore excursions every day including snorkeling. We snorkeled with sea lions and turtles all around us. This was a 4-star trip and certainly not for the budget conscious.
For those on a budget that would like to do a cruise go to Community Hostel in Quito. ( If you do the free walking tour of Quito this is where you meet up) They have a board that lists last minute deals for boats that cruise the Galapagos. A real bargain. Folks will have to check out the reviews for the particular boat they may want to go on.
One thing we would like to suggest is to list what the airfare is for the Galapagos. Rather than mentioning your luck of using points/miles. Currently, the airfare is running around $425 Rt from Quito plus $20 mandatory Galapagos Tourist card. So adding that to your per person cost it would be $1245. for your 9 days. $800 sounds good but you left out a big chunk!
Cheers,
John and Susan
Boquete, Panama
Fantastic tips!! Thanks so much! We definitely recommend getting the LAN or Avianca credit cards to stock up on points if you have time before your trip (which is what we did) but yes, paying out of pocket will take a big chunk out of your budget. Thanks so much for the info!
Thanks for sharing your experience! Really helping with my planning. When you did DIY activities like snorkelling, where did you leave your belongings? Especially those that aren’t waterproof. I was thinking of bringing along a backpack to more secluded areas so leaving my stuff in my accommodation may not be a feasible option.
Thank you
We just left our bags nearby on dry land. There wasn’t any issue, we never felt nervous or unsafe. There aren’t a lot of tourists and not many locals, either – the crowds are all from the cruises. I wouldn’t bring like, your wallet and leave it there, but everything else is fine to leave on the beach or on land within eye range!
Sooo helpful! And hilarious 🙂 Thanks!
We’re planning a family trip to the Galapagos next year, and I’ve relied heavily on this guide. Thank you so much for putting it together! One question I have is regarding drinking water. All of the places we’ve booked will have purified drinking water available on-site. Does the purified tap water taste ok though? I’ve read that it just makes it safe to drink, but that it still tastes bad. With kids in tow, we may opt to bring a charcoal filter as well.
Also, greetings from Kentucky! We’ve been living in Lexington for 6 years now.
I don’t recall it tasting bad, but we mostly purified our own water. Our hotel offered purified drinking water, but it was just a pitcher that we had to request to have refilled, and we consume a lot more water than we have patience! It’s really nice to have the means to purify your own if you need more than what’s available. There is also a grocery store in Puerto Ayora where you can pick up bottled water, but it’s quite costly.
And YAY Kentucky!! I’m ashamed to say I haven’t really explored Lexington. It’s high up on my list to do next time I visit my old Kentucky home! I’ve heard nothing but good things lately.
Hello, thank you for this amazing writeup on the Galapagos, it’s so helpful! I am looking into booking day trips on Isabela with Pahoehoe and was curious if you recommend booking in advance online? We really want to do the lava tunnels tour with them but it says online it’s $145 to book in advance? Were you able to just pay $90 because you waited to book once you actually were there? Thanks!
Hi Jen! So, they absolutely may have upped their prices since we visited in 2016, but we did not book in advance. We basically showed up to Isla Isabela and made reservations through our hostel, who called for us (or you can just stop by their office right on the main road). We booked a tour day-of and next-day that way. But it was a bit stressful because our hostel had to beg for them to squeeze us in and basically call in a favor – we kinda got lucky. If you have some flexibility, I’d say try to save a buck and book in person, but if it’s more important to you to know for sure that you’ll be able to do the tour, it’s definitely safest to book in advance and reserve your spot. That is especially true during the high tourism seasons (we visited in August, when most families are starting school and the islands are not very crowded).
Your write-up was very helpful for the trip our family took to the Galapagos a few weeks ago (Thanksgiving break). We booked the Los Tunneles tour through our hostel ahead of time. We paid $120 per person + $10 each for wet suits. The tour operator was not Pahoehoe but I can’t remember their name. They were on the main street, about a block past the main square. We stayed at Tero Real and they booked the trip ahead of time for us. We paid the tour company in cash when we got there. It was an amazing tour!
Hi Marcy, thanks so much for this helpful information! We rely on information like this to keep our posts up to date so we can continue to provide the best possible information to our readers. It sounds like the prices may have raised somewhat since we visited, so we’ll update our post. Thanks again!
Pahoehoe quoted me $145 per person ahead of time. They said I may be able to get a better “last minute deal.” However, with a family of five we didn’t want to risk there not being space for all of us. Thanks again for your great trip report!
Hi!
I really appreciate your guide to the Galapagos. I am planing a land-based trip around the Galapagos myself at the moment. We have 7 full days on Galapagos, but I really can’t decide whether or not we should include San Cristóbal. Could you give me some thoughts on that issue? Do you think it would be worth it, or should be better spend a little more time on tours based from Ayora or Isabela island?
That’s hard for us to answer since we didn’t make it to San Cristobal ourselves! Speaking for ourselves, I’d say to focus on Santa Cruz & Isla Isabela – when we asked the locals we met, they all seemed to agree that San Cristobal wasn’t as good to visit. The main draw is the sea lion nesting grounds and the Kicker Rock trip, which is best if you’re a diver or really want to see a lot of hammerheads below you. We probably could have taken a day from Santa Cruz (like the day we went to Tortuga Bay, for example) and done an overnight to San Cristobal, but it might have felt pretty packed. So I’m gonna say skip San Cristobal and focus on Santa Cruz & Isla Isabela, but take my advice with a grain of salt since I don’t know what you’ll be missing out on since I haven’t been myself 😛
Thanks Lia for confirming my thoughts 🙂 Now, I know what we’re going to do, and it feels like the right choice.
Thank you so much for publishing this fantastic guide! My husband and I are visiting the Galapagos in a few weeks and we also aren’t doing a cruise. I had one question – do you think it’s feasible to do a day trip to Isabella from Santa Cruz without spending the night? I know we wouldn’t be able to do an organized tour once there, but I would love to be able to visit!
Hmm, it depends entirely on the timing of the ferries. I’m not sure whether they go multiple times per day, or whether the same one arrives, lets everyone off, and then immediately heads back – or if there’s a break in between, perhaps, or a few departure times spaced throughout the day. I’d wager it’s possible, but just to be safe, I’d ask at the docks in Puerto Ayora as soon you arrive so you have some time to plan.
Hi, this was a excellent read and plenty to think about. I have 2 question though, do you have to be able to swin to do snorkelling and how much are the tours each. Ps we are thinking of going in may
Yes, you should definitely be able to swim to snorkel. The tours range from around $50 to around $100 each, depending on the operator and whether you book online in advance or in person once you arrive!
When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get three emails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove people from that service? Thanks a lot!
I looked through WordPress and couldn’t figure it out 🙁 It doesn’t look like I have any access to see who’s subscribed to my comments or to remove them. Perhaps there’s an unsubscribe box somewhere in the emails that you’re being sent? I’m so sorry, what a nuisance!
I’m glad I stumbled on this page. Thanks for the information you guys provided. It’ detailed and fun. I can surely say that there’s no better travel blog than yours. Thanks once again.
One quick question. I get to (have to) work remotely. So may I know if internet connection is decent enough to join and take conference calls. Anything above 3 Mbps should be good for me
You’re so sweet, thank you Andy! I was able to do some remote work during our time in the Galapagos – I think it really depends on the hotel, honestly, the pricier the hotel the better the connection is likely to be. I’ll say that the internet was MUCH better in Puerto Ayora than on Isla Isabela. So perhaps schedule your calls for when you’re on the bigger islands (Santa Cruz and San Cristobal) and plan to disconnect for a bit while you’re in Isla Isabela!
Thanks for the detailed post, it came in handy when planning our trip. We went to San Cristobal (and loved it!) but I’m still regretting missing Isabela!
Ahhh Isabela is beautiful! But we missed out on San Cristobal so I know what you mean about regret 😛 I guess we both have to go back!
Amazing! Thank you so much for your post! The information is SOO helpful! Just curious, do you have a recommendation for a tour company in Santa Cruz. I will be traveling with my three boys (12, 11 & 8) in June and I would like to book things when I am there based on how they feel. Do you think I need to reserve in advance for travel in June? Also, do you think it is safe to walk to Grietas and Tortuga Bay alone with my kids? Just not sure about safety, etc. Thanks so much!
It’s definitely safe to walk to Las Grietas and Tortuga Bay alone with your kids – just bring plenty of water and apply lots of sunscreen! As for reserving in advance, since there are 4 of you it might be a good idea to reserve in advance since I’m not sure how quickly tours fill up. We reserved all of our tours when we arrived on the islands during our trip in August and had no problems, but there were only 2 of us. As for tour companies in Santa Cruz, it doesn’t much matter which one you book with because all of the tour companies are booking pretty much the exact same boats and tours, and they are all regulated to ensure that the tour guides are up to standard.
Hi Lia, this guide is like a bible for my trip. I’m waiting to board my flight to Galapagos right now. I just wanted to add that you can actually also fly with TAME airlines in addition to Avianca and LATAM. That’s what I’m doing 🙂 Thanks for all the useful and detailed advice as always! Not sure how I’d travel South America without thia resource.
So happy to help, Kristina! We’ve heard mixed things about TAME – they don’t have great reviews online – but we’d love to hear how your experience is with them!
Thank you for all the GREAT information. I am looking at planning a trip and like many others was deterred by the high cost of a cruise. Appreciate all the tips to make this trip my own! I was wondering how bumpy is the ferry ride between the islands? I don’t do well in boats so that is why I thought a cruise would be better…. Any tips or suggestions?
Much appreciate it!
Most of the ferries are pretty small boats going pretty quickly, so they are fairly bumpy. But with dramamine I was honestly just fine – and I’m the kind of person who gets sick just from sitting in the backseat of a car! I’d rather have a couple hour choppy boat ride with some dramamine than round-the-clock gentle swaying, personally, but it’s totally up to you!
This is super helpful and convinced me to go to the Galapagos. How much would you say a roundtrip flight in Ecuador to the Galapagos typically runs (not using points)? Thanks.
Wow, how awesome! I’m so thrilled that we inspired your trip 🙂 Not using points, you’re probably looking at around $200 to get from mainland Ecuador (Quito or Guayaquil) to the Galapagos (Baltra or San Cristobal), depending on time of year. They likely won’t be more than $500 or so even during peak season. But also remember that you’ll need to pay the entrance fee to get into the park ($100 or so).
How much money do you recommend bringing if I’m traveling on a budget? Are there ATMs and do they accept cards there? Thanks.
There is an ATM in the grocery store in Puerto Ayora, none on Isla Isabela and a few on San Cristobal. So you don’t need to take cash to cover your WHOLE trip, just the days that you’ll be away from the ATM. Few places accept cards, and those that do will charge the card fee that you’ll found throughout Ecuador, so it’s much cheaper to use cash.
This post is so helpful! I am in the middle of planning a trip to the Galapagos and trying to decide if we should do a cruise or land-based trip. I think this is definitely going to help me out! Thanks!
THANK YOU for such detailed and fun post – I have been debating between taking a cruise or do it by land and you just gave me the answer ( i will save my money for other trip ) – I am planning to go to Galapagos in December for 7 days – Based on your first experience and if you have to do it again ( assuming it would be your first time ) : would you follow the same itinerary ? what itinerary would recommend ? – Thank you once again. Erwin
Hey Erwin, happy you found our post helpful! I think one change I would make would be to fly into Baltra to explore Santa Cruz, but out of San Cristobal. The way we did it we didn’t get a chance to see San Cristobal at all and we had about 8 days total. The only way we could have seen it is if we’d had our flights set up like that. Otherwise, I was happy with our itinerary!
First of all, THANK YOU! love your site, appreciate all the wonderful details that make it so useful for planning our trips and enjoy your great sense of humor in your writing. I’m so lucky to have come upon your blog!
I do have a question I hope you can help with. You recommended doing the lava tunnels, tortoise sanctuary and los gemelos all on the same day/trip. How much time do you think we should allow for this? we’ll be doing some dive trips in the morning, getting back around 2P. could we do this in a few hours in the late afternoon? Or is it more of an all day thing? There’s so much I want to see and do and not enough time.
And I have some suggestions. Please go travel to Croatia, Vietnam/laos, and south Africa asap. Those are the next trips I’m planning and could sure use your insider tips.
Thanks again for your very useful and enjoyable blog!
Hey Jackie, that’s an organized tour so it will depend entirely on your tour operator and if they offer tours in the afternoon. That said, there’s not much flexibility with the tours as they have to work around other tour operators, cruise boats, and most importantly of all, tides. I don’t think that 2pm would allow enough time for that tour, but a local tour operator would be able to give you better information!
Amazing post! This helped us make our trip to the Galápagos ten times better, and gave us the confidence to go without a cruise. In our opinion going without a cruise is a way better option.
Thanks again!
How sweet of you to say! So glad you find our post helpful!
This is amazing article, but I’m kind of sad how expensive it is 🙁 This is for us spending same amount of money for one week, as we otherwise do in one month traveling in South America…. Definitely not a budget destination.
No, it’s definitely not – we spent less in a whole month traveling in Colombia versus our 8 days in the Galapagos. But it’s one of those places that is worth paying for if you’re able to afford it, and doing it without a cruise is the cheapest way to do it!
Thank for the great post! Do you think 9 days would be enough time to visit Cristobal, Isabela, and Santa Cruz? If so, how many days would you allocate for each? Planning a trip for March and I’m so excited!
9 days is cutting it a little close … we had 8 days and weren’t able to fit in Cristobal because we purchased round trip flights from Baltra airport. If you want to hit up all 3, I highly recommend booking one flight into Baltra and the other out of San Cristobal. Then you can spend 2-3 days at each spot and have a lot more flexibility.
Amazing and Practical article.
Which month did you go? You mentioned a few times water was chilly.
I plan to go in January. Google shows water temperature of 75 degrees average in Jan 🙂
Did you encounter situations when tours were fully booked?
I am trying to estimate the need of advance booking. Would be nice to book in place…
We visited in August. Certain times of the year have colder water (like when we went) and in January the water is nice and warm, which is why it’s high season then! We did experience a few instances when tours were fully booked, so I would definitely advise booking in advance if you can swing the extra cost.
Great post! Thank you!
I am planning a solo travel and it was very helpfull!
Only 1 question, while you were snorkeling by yourselves (like Las Grietas), where did you leave your stuff (backpack, etc)?
Thank you again!
We just left it on the ground sort of covered with stuff so it would be inconvenient to rifle through 😛 Honestly we weren’t too worried about theft during our trip, the Galapagos felt very safe!
Very well done and comprehensive. Indeed, if “travelling on a budget” is the most important criterion in how you visit Galapagos, a land based trip is the way to go. However, if “I really want to experience as much of what these islands are famous for as possible”, then an expedition cruise is a superior way to do it. I lived in the islands for 4 years and nothing compared to getting out to the far reaches of the archipelago, watching the sun rise over calm waters as a pod of dolphins lazily swims by, or watching the sunset, moored offshore from one of the youngest volcanoes on the planet. My recommendation to those who feel torn: “Wait”. Wait until you’re in a position to go on a ship based visit. I get the impression that so many people want to do everything as early as possible in life… as a result, they have to do it at a time when funds are limited and end up missing out on some of the best opportunities. Full disclosure: I run a Galapagos travel agency specializing mostly on cruises, but do also help with land based arrangements. ALSO: If you can make your budget stretch, here is a good last minute cruise website: http://www.galapagoscruiselinks.com that puts you in touch with ship owners directly – just in case…
Very helpful, thank you for that insight!
Great and very helpful post – and so entertaining.
Thank you very much. I feel prepared for our trip in Jan 🙂
Hello,
I am looking to go to the Galapagos for 9 days in May and I was just wondering how easy it is to actually get between islands. I can’t see much about booking ferries online so I imagine it’s a ‘by the dock’ kind of thing. We have found a few land tours which seem to be expensive but everything is taken care of in terms of travel and hotels. How did you book the hotels when you went, was it online or when you arrived?
Also, how busy were the tours you went on in August?
Thanks 🙂
It’s very easy to book ferries, you can just book them in person at the docks as mentioned in our post! Just be sure to buy your tickets a few days early. We didn’t book anything in advance, but if we did it again, we would have booked our hotels in advance – it was stressful trying to find a decent place to stay. That’s why we’ve included recommendations for places you can book online in this post as well as our downloadable guide. The pre-arranged land tours are great for ease of mind – they save you the hassle of figuring out your logistics and you can book them in advance so you just show up. But you’ll definitely pay more doing it that way!
The tours we went on were all full, but they’re all capped at a reasonable amount – the ferries are pretty small and they also need to be sure there are enough guides to handle the groups, plus certain places have volume restrictions, etc. It’s all pretty tightly regulated – like, a company won’t let you on a tour that’s already full just to make an extra buck. The largest one we went on was about 16-20 people, which felt a little crowded, but most of them were around 10-15.
Hey Lia great article!
We have 7 nights to spend on the Galapagos.
How many nights would you stay on Isabela, and how many on Santa Cruz?
Thanks!
Jim
p.s. my gut feeling is 4 nights on Isabela and 3 on Santa Cruz…:-)
If you dig that rustic, quiet island vibe, definitely spend some more time on Isla Isabela. If you prefer a few more amenities (better WiFi, better food, a bit of nightlife) then Santa Cruz is more up your alley and I’d spend more time there. I hope that’s helpful!
This is fantastic, thank you. We are budget travellers too but didn’t think we could do the Galapagos on our own luckily i was wrong.
Thanks great guide. Can you please send me your pdf version.
Best,
K
Hey K, look for the box with the big button. You’ll need to sign up and open the email that we’ll send you once you sign up for to get our PDF guide!
Great blog! What a great source of info. Love to have the pdf version. I am interested in the Galapagos.
Hey Michael, to get the PDF you’ll need to sign up in the box – look for the big, bright button 🙂
can you please send me your itinerary you mentioned above please? thanks for all of your hard work putting this together.
Nicole
Hey Nicole, to get the PDF guide you’ll need to subscribe in the box included in the post! Look for the big button 🙂
I would love the PDF FGuide! We are leaving on Friday January 11,2019. I hope to get it before then… I just found your amazing information or I would have requested sooner!!
Hey Dawn, to get the PDF guide just sign up in the box with the big, bright button! It’ll get sent straight to your inbox.
Hi Lia,
I just loved your travel guide. It is very informative. I have a question for you. I am going to doing the land itineraries that you mentioned. My question is I am contemplating on whether to go in July 2019 or go in January 2020. I love snorkeling so I will be in the water a lot. Would you please offer your thoughts?
I know the water is cold in July and choppy. I get motion sickness and don’t know how I would do on a 2 hour ferry ride. I like the air temp being cooler.
In January, the water will be warm and smooth. But it will be hot air wise. Please advise and help me with this predicament.
I appreciate any insight.
Best Regards,
Kathy
I would recommend going in January. It won’t be *that* hot and the water will be more pleasant. It will be a little more crowded, though! Hope that helps.
Hi Lia my family and I really want to go to Rabida and Bartolome Island. Do you know how we would get there from Puerto Ayora? Thanks,
Hayley
You’d have to take a tour as those aren’t inhabited islands and you’ll need a guide to accompany you.
Thanks a lot, Lia. Really an informative guide for a new visitor like me. I was planning to make a trip soon.
Thanks for your reply, Lia. I’m going with your recommendation to go in January.
If money wasn’t a concern, would you book a boat tour where everything is organized for you, or do it on your own?
Best Regards,
Kathy
Hi. Great post. We are planning a 10 day land based tour. Can you recommend good tour operators who provide daily excursions in San Cristobal & Isabela. Particularly looking for someone reliable to do snorkelling with (as we are comfortable but not very well experienced swimmers).